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10-11-2008, 06:41 PM #11
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10-11-2008, 09:09 PM #12
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They get tired of this call. There is no dispute here about whether the frame is grounded or not, it is. Look at the stud, bonded to the frame. Same for the schematic, shows it bonded.Thanks MAC, but I dont think the TB302 frame is design as a ground. On the front of the TB302 panel, there is a spot marked ground with a nut and washers to connect a ground. Im gonna call miller to see if the TB302's bottom mounting bolts and frame will act as a ground. I will post the info into this thread for TB302 owners, and for future reference.
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10-12-2008, 04:59 PM #13
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Thanks Sberry, is the schematic in my original instructions for the TB302. If so I gotta learn to read the instructions to things more often
. I could care less about myself, but I worry about, possibly shocking and injuring someone around me, so Id like to ground her right. Thanks,
Joe
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10-12-2008, 07:02 PM #14
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Take a continuity tester and check it. I believe there is a drilled and tapped hole in the frame marked with the symbol on my SA for a ground connection. I think the stud on these other machines is simply that, a bolt to make a convenient connection to the frame. Probably some NEMA code says it has to be marked with a symbol, etc.
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10-13-2008, 08:58 AM #15
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Sorry if I sound stupid, but what should the reading be on the continuity tester. I have one, but all I know how to do is check outlets. What is the correct reading when I test it, if it is a grounding spot, and should I have the welder running when I test it?. Sorry for all the questions, but I told you guys I suck when it comes to messin with electricity.
Thanks for your help buddy.
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10-13-2008, 10:09 AM #16
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No need to have anything running. Its an ohm setting and when you short the leads together the needle should drop to 0. Put one lead on the stud and one on the frame somewhere, needle goes to 0, put it from the stud and ground pin of an outlet. All of this machine at the same potential. The only reason the stud is there is to have a convenient place to hook a wire if the need should arise. Say this is sitting on a wood bed trailer and you lag screw it to the deck now the stud comes in to play, hook a wire to the steel of the trailer frame. Now the frame of the power plant machine and the metal you may come in contact with are at the same potential. No chance of personnel becoming a conductor between the 2. This is not a part of the workings of a normal electrical circuit, when its working right nothing is flowing on this wire, its a safety in case something goes wrong, mainly a fault of some cord and plug equipment connected to this machine. Best wording I can give at the moment, maybe a real sparkie can help.
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10-13-2008, 11:45 AM #17
Ed Conley
http://www.screamingbroccoli.net/
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10-13-2008, 09:01 PM #18
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Man, you guys are great, thanks allot. I have known them as probes as well
, at least that is what my father called them, when he was still alive. Thanks again fellas, I have copied and pasted the info you guys posted over to my wordperfect files. I make hard copies of everything useful and put it into my book for later reference. You learn something new everyday.
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10-14-2008, 02:43 PM #19
Ground
It's not a big deal. Just ground it to the frame of the truck. I used #8 wire. You're only grounding out the controls.
Millermatic 210
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Laptop and Printer
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10-14-2008, 04:37 PM #20
The way I learnt it is: You bond to the Truck so it is now part of the Power System.
If it is not bonded and you get a ground short the truck is now energized because there is no BOND path for the short to trip the CB on the Generator/Welder.
If it is bonded and a ground short occurs there IS a Path and it will trip the CB.
Ed Conley
http://www.screamingbroccoli.net/
MM252
MM211
Passport Plus w/Spool Gun
TA185
Miller 125c Plasma 120v
O/A set
SO 2020 Bender
You can call me Bacchus



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