the dewalt dry cut saw does cut fine, but it is harder to set up accurately because the base is just stamped sheet metal with a very inaccurate degree gauge for setting a perfect 90* angle, and the clamping arm tends to change the angle slightly if you're not careful. the point is that if you want it to be accurate, you have fuss with it a bit.
i currently own the dewalt, but if i had it to buy over again i would pick the makita or milwaukee.
Results 21 to 30 of 92
Thread: Evolution Cold saw
10-02-2008, 09:47 AM #21Senior Member
miller dynasty 350
- Join Date
- Jul 2007
- Southern NH
miller spectrum 1000
10-02-2008, 08:51 PM #22
Now if they only made a dry cut saw like the wood cutting miter saw. They Do! Evolution Steel 3, Rage 3, and Fury 3.
The Steel 3 is a metal only 10" TCT Steel Cutting Circular Miter Saw.
No link however I got Evolution booklet at my LWS.
The others are 10" and 8 1/4" TCT Multipurpose Compound Miter S.A.W.
I want a dry cut saw, but I'm going to buy a millwaulkee porta-band saw first. Then a Harbor Freight 7"x12" or 4"x6" Band Saw. Then either the Steel 3 10" Steel Cutting Circular Miter Saw or the Steel 2 15" TCT Steel Cutting Circular Chop Saw.
You have to set goal, and put them in order.
I use the Metabo angle grinder. It's OK. Slow to start up and get going(might be that it has been used and abused). Doesn't spin like the high RPM and torque of my HF grinder though. Just to help you out a little ACE.
JamesMiller Dynasty 200DX SOLD
WeldTec Water Cooler SOLD
Miller Millermatic 180 w/ Spoolmate 100
And lots of Cut-off and grinding wheels
10-02-2008, 10:16 PM #23Welding in Crete
Syncrowave 350 LX
Millermatic 180 w Spoolgun
Miller Gold Seal 155
Miller Elite welding helmet
JD2 Tubing bender with Hydraulic conversion
Evolution Raptor15" SteelDry Cut Saw
Hypertherm Powermax 30
Some really cool hammers BIG and small
10-02-2008, 10:19 PM #24Senior Member
- Join Date
- Sep 2006
- Wichita Falls, Tx
10-02-2008, 10:49 PM #25
Ummm...I'd have to see a Metabo beaten by a HF to believe it. I've been using a 5" Metabo since '89 and it is still as strong now as it was new. They make stuff that is light years above chicom crap.Don
'06 Trailblazer 302
'06 12RC feeder
Super S-32P feeder
HH210 & DP3035 spool gun
Esab Multimaster 260
Esab Heliarc 252 AC/DC
10-03-2008, 10:32 AM #26
I have a cast base Milwaukee. abrasive saws like this are good rebar and general hacking a way at metal.
iIf your going to want to cut pices consistantly
get a Horizontle bansaw with coolant.
Even elcheepo china one will be you're new most
favord tool in the shop.
Mine has over 10" jaw
45Degree and all that.
The milwaukee cost $300.00 a bunch of years ago.
We used to pay alot more for tools and stuff. Not any more though.
But of corse if it has to be mobile than a chop saw is the way to go.Millermatic 135
10-26-2008, 09:43 AM #27
I like the milwaulkee I used once, seemed well made, and cut well. I am a bandsaw man though, I like to set my cut, walk away and do something else, come back to a finished cut.Voigt Precision Welding, Inc.
Miller Dynasty 200 DX, Miller Syncrowave 250, MillerMatic 252, Hypertherm Powermax 45, Auto Arc Trailpower 8000,272+187 lb Peter Wright anvil, 120 lb Fisher-norris, and more! Buffalo drill press, Grizzly Horiz. Bandsaw, Edwards shear, Barth Shear, bantam mechanical ironworker, Hopkins fly press, Doall Bandsaw, brown and sharpe surface grinder.
2007 Silverado 2500HD (tow vehicle)
2000 Camaro SS (Race car)
10-26-2008, 10:24 AM #28Member
- Join Date
- Aug 2008
I just got the Rage II 14 incher and am getting ready to take it back (if they let me). I pulled it out of the box to use yesterday to cut some square tubing. It cuts through the metal just fine and rather smooth, however when you take a look at the edge after cutting you will see a jagged look, I'm sure it's just how the blade cuts, but it's basically not smooth and thus is not true in the way it cuts, basically you can see the chipping marks left over on whatever you're cutting.
Anyway, I could settle for that but the saw actually gets hung up on the rear lever. So basically the up and down motion (when I bring the saw blade down) is sticky or gets hung up. Some type of misalignment. The lever (which looks rather flimsy) rubs against the round blade cover and gets hungup on the way down. I have to jerk it for it to get passed it.
Maybe this is just on my tool, somekind of freak incident but, I think it lends itself to poor design, so, I hope to take a return (Sears) and I'll move on to a Milwaukee or something.
10-28-2008, 09:00 PM #29Junior Member
- Join Date
- Oct 2008
I have the evolution 230HDX and love it. I use a bandsaw for most stick materials in my shop, but the circ is great for plate and large angle or channel. For field work the circ is hard to beat. As long as I keep a slow steady feed rate blades last pretty darn long. The blades do get trashed eventually, but the time saved is well worth it to me. I am trying to find a way to afford the 14" chop saw version.
10-30-2008, 07:32 AM #30
I purchased a Evolution 355 about two years ago, 14" blade. Love it. It does what I expect of it, cuts stuff very well. The fence is fairly tough and adjustable. Even tough the base is pressed metal, the saw seems to be well built. I have no idea whether it's built better than other machines, but it's good enough for my hobby shop use.
Here's my bottom line:
Pro's: cuts great when blade is sharp, fast, convenient, handles fairly large stock (I've cut up to 4" pipe)
Con's: eats blades (I'm on my 3rd blade about $100-120 each, 72 tooth), really really noisy, got to be very careful about pushing the blade too hard, or hitting the teeth inadvertently, cutting hard materials (1144) will wreck the blade quickly.
I'd like to have a good quality horizontal bandsaw, but don't want to give up shop floor space. I'll stay with the Evolution, though I'd say, due to blade consumption, it's not the least cost cutoff solution.MTBob
MM 251 w/Spool gun
Evolution Cut Off saw
Walker Turner Drill Press