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  1. #21
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Southern NH
    Posts
    233

    Default

    the dewalt dry cut saw does cut fine, but it is harder to set up accurately because the base is just stamped sheet metal with a very inaccurate degree gauge for setting a perfect 90* angle, and the clamping arm tends to change the angle slightly if you're not careful. the point is that if you want it to be accurate, you have fuss with it a bit.

    i currently own the dewalt, but if i had it to buy over again i would pick the makita or milwaukee.
    miller dynasty 350
    miller spectrum 1000

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Baltimore, Maryland
    Posts
    315

    Default

    Now if they only made a dry cut saw like the wood cutting miter saw. They Do! Evolution Steel 3, Rage 3, and Fury 3.

    The Steel 3 is a metal only 10" TCT Steel Cutting Circular Miter Saw.
    No link however I got Evolution booklet at my LWS.

    The others are 10" and 8 1/4" TCT Multipurpose Compound Miter S.A.W.

    http://www.evolutiononlineshop.com/s...%203%20%20Saw/

    http://www.evolutiononlineshop.com/s...ury%203%20Saw/

    I want a dry cut saw, but I'm going to buy a millwaulkee porta-band saw first. Then a Harbor Freight 7"x12" or 4"x6" Band Saw. Then either the Steel 3 10" Steel Cutting Circular Miter Saw or the Steel 2 15" TCT Steel Cutting Circular Chop Saw.
    http://www.evolutiononlineshop.com/s...eel%20Saw%202/

    You have to set goal, and put them in order.

    I use the Metabo angle grinder. It's OK. Slow to start up and get going(might be that it has been used and abused). Doesn't spin like the high RPM and torque of my HF grinder though. Just to help you out a little ACE.

    James
    Miller Dynasty 200DX SOLD
    WeldTec Water Cooler SOLD
    Miller Millermatic 180 w/ Spoolmate 100
    20Ton press
    And lots of Cut-off and grinding wheels
    www.IAGPERFORMANCE.com

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Crete Illinois
    Posts
    186

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by benny365 View Post
    I apologize Jim.

    I went ahead and got the Rage 2 for 225.00 from airgas locally. Cut a few pieces and it does a good job. Money was an issue for me so the price was a deciding factor. Anyways Thanks for all of the input Guys.

    Ben
    No problem Ben.........sorry for the short reply there,,,,,4 month old twins can have an effect on your lack of sleeping habits......hope that saw works as good for you as my Raptor 380 works for me Jim
    Welding in Crete
    Syncrowave 350 LX
    Millermatic 252
    Millermatic 180 w Spoolgun
    Miller Gold Seal 155
    Miller Elite welding helmet
    JD2 Tubing bender with Hydraulic conversion
    Evolution Raptor15" SteelDry Cut Saw
    Hypertherm Powermax 30
    Some really cool hammers BIG and small

  4. #24
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Wichita Falls, Tx
    Posts
    177

    Default

    here is the rage 3 in action.
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rnopNPgd-80

    James, I am surprised you dont like you metabo grinder
    Last edited by ace4059; 10-03-2008 at 12:09 AM.

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Bulverde, Tx
    Posts
    1,244

    Default

    Ummm...I'd have to see a Metabo beaten by a HF to believe it. I've been using a 5" Metabo since '89 and it is still as strong now as it was new. They make stuff that is light years above chicom crap.
    Don


    '06 Trailblazer 302
    '06 12RC feeder
    Super S-32P feeder

    HH210 & DP3035 spool gun
    Esab Multimaster 260
    Esab Heliarc 252 AC/DC

  6. #26
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Delta B.C.
    Posts
    33

    Default

    I have a cast base Milwaukee. abrasive saws like this are good rebar and general hacking a way at metal.
    iIf your going to want to cut pices consistantly
    get a Horizontle bansaw with coolant.
    Even elcheepo china one will be you're new most
    favord tool in the shop.

    Mine has over 10" jaw
    45Degree and all that.
    $500 can.

    The milwaukee cost $300.00 a bunch of years ago.
    We used to pay alot more for tools and stuff. Not any more though.

    But of corse if it has to be mobile than a chop saw is the way to go.
    Millermatic 135
    Dynasty 200DX

  7. #27
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Baldwin, NY
    Posts
    275

    Default

    I like the milwaulkee I used once, seemed well made, and cut well. I am a bandsaw man though, I like to set my cut, walk away and do something else, come back to a finished cut.
    Voigt Precision Welding, Inc.

    Miller Dynasty 200 DX, Miller Syncrowave 250, MillerMatic 252, Hypertherm Powermax 45, Auto Arc Trailpower 8000,272+187 lb Peter Wright anvil, 120 lb Fisher-norris, and more! Buffalo drill press, Grizzly Horiz. Bandsaw, Edwards shear, Barth Shear, bantam mechanical ironworker, Hopkins fly press, Doall Bandsaw, brown and sharpe surface grinder.

    2007 Silverado 2500HD (tow vehicle)
    2000 Camaro SS (Race car)

  8. #28

    Default

    I just got the Rage II 14 incher and am getting ready to take it back (if they let me). I pulled it out of the box to use yesterday to cut some square tubing. It cuts through the metal just fine and rather smooth, however when you take a look at the edge after cutting you will see a jagged look, I'm sure it's just how the blade cuts, but it's basically not smooth and thus is not true in the way it cuts, basically you can see the chipping marks left over on whatever you're cutting.

    Anyway, I could settle for that but the saw actually gets hung up on the rear lever. So basically the up and down motion (when I bring the saw blade down) is sticky or gets hung up. Some type of misalignment. The lever (which looks rather flimsy) rubs against the round blade cover and gets hungup on the way down. I have to jerk it for it to get passed it.

    Maybe this is just on my tool, somekind of freak incident but, I think it lends itself to poor design, so, I hope to take a return (Sears) and I'll move on to a Milwaukee or something.

  9. #29
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Posts
    1

    Default

    I have the evolution 230HDX and love it. I use a bandsaw for most stick materials in my shop, but the circ is great for plate and large angle or channel. For field work the circ is hard to beat. As long as I keep a slow steady feed rate blades last pretty darn long. The blades do get trashed eventually, but the time saved is well worth it to me. I am trying to find a way to afford the 14" chop saw version.

  10. #30

    Default

    I purchased a Evolution 355 about two years ago, 14" blade. Love it. It does what I expect of it, cuts stuff very well. The fence is fairly tough and adjustable. Even tough the base is pressed metal, the saw seems to be well built. I have no idea whether it's built better than other machines, but it's good enough for my hobby shop use.

    Here's my bottom line:
    Pro's: cuts great when blade is sharp, fast, convenient, handles fairly large stock (I've cut up to 4" pipe)

    Con's: eats blades (I'm on my 3rd blade about $100-120 each, 72 tooth), really really noisy, got to be very careful about pushing the blade too hard, or hitting the teeth inadvertently, cutting hard materials (1144) will wreck the blade quickly.

    I'd like to have a good quality horizontal bandsaw, but don't want to give up shop floor space. I'll stay with the Evolution, though I'd say, due to blade consumption, it's not the least cost cutoff solution.
    MTBob
    ____________________________
    MM 251 w/Spool gun
    MM 135
    Evolution Cut Off saw
    Logan Lathe
    Clausing Mill
    Walker Turner Drill Press

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