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  1. #11
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Vero Beach, fl.


    I just noticed you are from south Fl. How far are you from Vero Beach?
    If necessity is the Mother of Invention, I must be the Father of Desperation!

    John Blewett III 10-22-73 to 8-16-07
    Another racing great gone but not to be forgotten.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    South Florida


    Not too far from Dolphins Stadium.. Sorry for the rough drawing, it was the only thing I could come up with quick...

    So, option 1 might be best in this case?

    Not sure if using the cross member (yellow horizontal line) to connect both sides is necessary.. An the yellow lines, your suggesting 2x3x11 ga, in stead of 2x2x1/8", correct? Also, 2x2x1/8" angle will be ok to use on the frame, maybe I could add more? Just happen to have some laying around...

    Option 2

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Orange, TX



    As for the cross members, I know you indicated that this would be fine but do you think I should add more of them or remove those and add square tubing?

    As dabar39, I too was going to suggest you use another piece of 2x2x1/8 angle against the current x-members if you want to beef things up there. If you go this direction, consider placing the addition ones with the horizontal leg low to form a 90 degree 'Z'. In this way you will have a 2" flat surface to weld your new extended tongue to.

    You could 'mirror' the existing angle to form your own tube which creates an area that could trap road crime and moisture that could eventually cause rust through although this would be stronger than a 'Z' member.

    Either way, you don't have to solid weld your seams along the length where the two pieces meet. A 1-1/2" to 2" weld every 12" or so will do and alternate your weld locations from the top to bottom joints. If you want to help prevent rust bleed from the unwelded portions of the joints apply body seam sealer to any open joint areas prior to priming.

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