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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    South Florida
    Posts
    7

    Default Fixing utility trailer...(it was free)

    First post. Hope you guys could help me out.

    I don't have much experience weld but have done some with my dad. We made a flatbed trailer out of a travel trailer frame. It came out pretty good, the welds didn't look too pretty but were good.

    I will be using a Lincoln AC/DC 225/125 buzzbox(I know wrong company but the forum is great), with 6013 rod. (he has a lot of these)

    I was given this trailer and before using it, I would like to make some changes and additions. For some reason the previous owner installed the axle towards the rear. I have no idea why. I would also like to make some side walls. Also, would it be too difficult to make longer (extend), was thinking 14' total. On some projects we carry long pieces of wood, 12' to 16'.

    The trailer will be used to haul trash to the dump, move family..when needed, tile, thinset, plywood, sheetrock...an so on, not all at the same time. Work around the house never ends.

    I got some measurements... Size is 5'x10'. Frame is 2x2 square tubing and 2x2x1/8" angle. From the picture, could you tell me if the design is ok? Also from the number on the axle, could you tell me what the specs are? Here's the part number TS 35 73 0580 545 1 AX-5201-BD. It might be a 3500# axle and the spings are 4 leaf, flat end slipper. The mfg website indicates 2000# capacity each.

    Let me know if you would like pictures from different angles...

    Thanks, Joe






  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Vero Beach, fl.
    Posts
    761

    Default

    From what I can tell about your axle, It looks as if it is a 3500 lb. with a 73" hub face, 58" spring centers with 5 lug on 4 1/2" centers, springs sound like they are 1750 lb. capacity.

    The frame itself is pretty weak being made with 2" tube but all is not lost, If you put your foot on one of the corners and shake it, you will see a lot of twist and flex. If you put at least a 12" side rail on it, it will stiffen up quite a bit. I would suggest using square tube of at least 1 1/2 x 14 ga for the uprights and perimeter rails, angle will work but square will stiffen it better.

    As for the tongue, I would cut that one off and replace it with at least 3" x 11 ga. square box tube. The tongue should reach all the way back to the second crossmember for structural support. The diagonals on the tongue should reach back that far as well (see pic.)

    As far as lengthening it, I wouldn't do it. Not with the existing frame materials, way too weak for it. I would make a tailgate and have it set up so that it can stay in the horizontal position for longer loads or another suggestion is to make a receiver hitch type of set up on the back with an arm that slides in and out to the length and height you need to support your load.


    On a 10' trailer the axle center should be at the 72" mark, 60% rearward from the front edge of the trailer deck.

    Hope that gets you started and helps you out some. Dave

    Oh yeah, One more thing, If you don't have the proper experience let some one who does have do the critical parts such as welding the axle into it's proper place and especially the tongue. You are working on something that will be traveling down the highway and that is not the place for someone to test their first welds.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    If necessity is the Mother of Invention, I must be the Father of Desperation!

    John Blewett III 10-22-73 to 8-16-07
    Another racing great gone but not to be forgotten.http://video.google.com/videoplay?do...modified&hl=en

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    South Florida
    Posts
    7

    Default

    Thanks for your input Dave, it really helps clear things up.

    I've seen the coupler(not sure if it's the correct term)where the ball goes, that are a frame type. Are they any better than what it has now? Not sure if there is an advantage.

    Another question, the cross members are 2x2x1/8" is this ok or should it also be 2x2 square tubing? Not sure but by the time it's completed, I don't know how much load capacity I'll have.

    Is there an advantage of having the springs over the axle vs. under?

    Thanks again.
    Last edited by weldingfan; 08-27-2008 at 08:50 PM.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Vero Beach, fl.
    Posts
    761

    Default

    An A frame coupler is much better than the one you have now, but for what you have and what you will be able to carry it will be fine.

    As far as 2x2x1/8" crossmembers, yeah they are kinda weak, but again for what you have and what it will be it should be O.K.

    Something that I did not mention in the first post was fenders. I would suggest that you figure out a way to bolt them on instead of welding them because it's not if you bend one up, it's when you bend one up that you wish it was bolted instead of welded.

    One other thing, I generally put my tail lights on or near the back of the fender, here's the reasons why:

    1st, unless you put them in some sort of a cage it is the first thing to get broken when you back into something (and you will back into something)

    The 2nd. reason is the shin bone slam dance cuss fest that goes on when you walk around the edge of the trailer and smack your shin bone on it.( again, when you do, not if you do, and it WILL happen)
    If necessity is the Mother of Invention, I must be the Father of Desperation!

    John Blewett III 10-22-73 to 8-16-07
    Another racing great gone but not to be forgotten.http://video.google.com/videoplay?do...modified&hl=en

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    South Florida
    Posts
    7

    Default

    Yeah, one of the lights are already busted and for the shin bone dance, it's been close.

    As for which rod to use. Is 6013 rod the correct one?

    Thanks...

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    South Florida
    Posts
    7

    Default

    As for the tongue. You indicated 3"x11ga. I would then have to change the coupler to 3", correct.

    Thanks

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