I've been procrastinating long enough and need to knock out eight freestanding supports for some plasma screens to go in some corporate place somewhere.
Short story is they get a 3/8" thick x 32" diameter steel base, which also gets a 5" x 1/8" skirt. Two 3" OD tubes rise up about 60" and a 1/8" plate gets welded between them to which the factory bracket mounts, and then the screens will hang from that.
Here's the start:
1) Eight bases, the template, and the drop. Heavy metal.
2) Eight mounting plates waiting to bridge the gap.
3) The bases get bolted to the ground, but they still need to be levelled, so I'm making three adjustable pads for each base, which will get welded to the underside of the disks and be concealed by the skirt. Parts is parts.
4) My super fancy jig.
5) Zing-bang.
Thanks for looking.
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Thread: Plasma screen stands
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08-27-2008, 01:15 AM #1
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Plasma screen stands
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08-27-2008, 08:05 AM #2
Sweet!
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08-29-2008, 11:31 AM #3
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What does the finished product look like?
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08-29-2008, 12:03 PM #4
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08-29-2008, 10:30 PM #5
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Hey Nice work!!
That stuff looks great! I only wish I had the refined tecnique you show here!
I have a Dyn200dx and I love it! I assume that is what you accomplised these weld with!?
Again,,,good work!!
MB
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08-29-2008, 11:13 PM #6
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09-05-2008, 06:45 AM #7
If your shear is rolling the edge then the blades are not sharpened or not adjusted correctly. There should be no rolled edge on a sheared plate.
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09-05-2008, 08:41 AM #8
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I should clarify. The blades make a clean cut. I wrote that it rolled the edge, which is misleading. The cut is clean, but the plate distorts/curls over the 5" width. This hand shear has a 4" blade, so I have to take the cut in two bites.
Every shear I've ever used distorts the metal to some degree. Every piece of metal I've had sheared by someone else has been distorted to some degree. This applies to manual, electric, hydraulic, whatever. Every piece of paper I've cut with a pair of scissors has a curl to it.
When I need to cut something with no distortion, I use a saw... or a water jet.
On a similar note, I use a drill press (or water jet) to cut holes rather than a punch, which distorts the metal.
Thanks for looking.Last edited by chrisgay@sbcglo; 09-05-2008 at 12:45 PM. Reason: clarity
Maxstar 200DX
Maxstar 300DX
Dynasty 200DX
Passport
Spectrum 701
LMSW-52 spot welder
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09-05-2008, 09:55 AM #9
Chris*** - Just a question. Why do you have to roll the rings in halves?
Thanks.
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09-05-2008, 10:37 AM #10
With pretty much any 3 point roller you end up with a flat on the beginning and end of the raw stock which accounts for the distance between the center and outside roll. You can roll the ring to compensate for the excess, or you can roll it to diameter and half it like Chris does.
If you don't mind 2 seams, Chris's way is faster and easier. Especially with thicker material, you end up fighting it when you reach diameter with the excess for the ends.Syncrowave 250DX
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