Well, I finally grew tired of storing all my scrap material on the ground, table, against the wall... you get the idea.
I've never had a proper materials rack (just like I've never really had a proper MIG cart), so... instead of running all that rusty steel to the recycling center (an event that obviously was NEVER going to happen), I turned it into something useful. Check out the big brain on Chris. I really just wanted to say, "Nice rack."
This cart was made entirely of things I was tripping over every day in the shop.
1) Had this formed cart, complete with locking castors. On the cart is basically my version of a "plan." Hmm.. I'll use tubing and all those short lengths of 3/8" round stainless rod I have left over from a previous project. Make it work.
2) Had the 1" x .120 square tubing; bent it up like so.
3) I think this thing's gonna work. Zipped it up zing-bang! Where'd I put that can o' spray paint?
4) Loaded.
5) Another view.
I wish I had a picture of the mess of metal to emphasize just how much this little rack has helped me out. But I don't.
Thanks for looking.
Results 1 to 10 of 12
Thread: Materials Rack
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08-24-2008, 10:40 PM #1
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Materials Rack
Last edited by chrisgay@sbcglo; 08-24-2008 at 10:43 PM. Reason: Ummmm... I forgot the pictures.
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08-24-2008, 10:57 PM #2
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looks good....how did you bend that square tubing like that?
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08-24-2008, 11:10 PM #3
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This kid's got guns.
Thanks.
I pulled them around a special die in my Hossfeld #2 bender.
I think the diameter is 4".
I had pulled .060 wall before, but this time I pulled .120 wall for kicks.
I don't have a hydraulic unit, so I woke up the ol' guns and pulled it the old fashioned way. It worked. Gonna need a longer lever.
I just did a test bend to get me in the ballpark. I like to bend stuff because not only is it fun, but it leaves nice round corners that I don't hurt myself on. It also saves time since I don't have to fit, weld, and dress a joint or two. Even more, it helps to justify the bender purchase.
I'm glad you asked, because I just happen to have these pictures.
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08-24-2008, 11:52 PM #4
That's a lot of band saws ya got there.
Miller Maxstar 200 DX
RMLS-14 Momentary Hand Control
Miller Syncrowave 180 SD
Porter Cable 14" dry metal saw
Hitachi 4.5" grinder
http://mhayesdesign.com
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08-25-2008, 10:54 AM #5
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08-25-2008, 11:19 AM #6
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Chris,
Really nice work (as usual).
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08-25-2008, 11:39 AM #7
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08-25-2008, 09:41 PM #8
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Your material cart looks good and plenty functional. I'll probably copy this.
However, your ring roll is way beyond my skills, but looks good so far.
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08-26-2008, 09:12 PM #9
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I was mainly wondering bucause i just bought a jd2 bender and it has square dies available but werent sure if it would look that nice or how it would turn out until i saw this....and also this may sound dumb but i was practicing with my bender and tried to make a 180 degree bend but im not sure how to get both sides to match once its done...one side is way longer than the other....do you have any advice on how to do this properly?
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08-27-2008, 12:11 AM #10
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Hmmm.... my brain hurts a little too much to properly explain it, but I'll start you off and others can help clarify, perhaps with their own methods.
It's all about centerlines, registration marks, and understanding how much is lost to the bend. You can get close with simple math, but there is nothing like doing test bends to compare apples to apples.
You have to know how much material is going into the bend, and you can see this by where your bend is beginning and ending. If you cut a 24" piece, and after bending it you are left with 10" before the bend and 3" after the bend, you can safely assume that 11" were wrapped around the die. You would then know for the next piece that your beginning of bend should be 5.5" before your centerline of 12", which gives you a registration mark of 6.5" to the beginning of the bend. You just have to know where the beginning of the bend is on your machine. Some benders are also tricky because you have to be sure you don't get any slippage, or you'll lose your mind wondering why you have no consistency.
There is more than one way to skin a cat
, but I hope this method makes some sense and gets you going.
Oh yeah... an easier way is to cut your piece long, bend it, then trim it to equalize the ends. You still have to know what you're dealing with though, so you don't end up short.Last edited by chrisgay@sbcglo; 08-27-2008 at 12:13 AM. Reason: there's an easier way...
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Spectrum 701
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