first bbq pit / smoker

[BudMan580]

How about cutting a few "ribs" to the proper curve, clamping everything tight and tack welding the ribs in?

[BudMan580]

How about cutting a few "ribs" to the proper curve, clamping everything tight and tack welding the ribs in?

[blaznhot_23]

If you can get it wo seal with some latches, I wouldn't try to bend it a lot.

I think the Metal Doctor was on to something as well. The pit will grow while in use. My smoker leaks some as it comes up to temp, but once it all gets hot it doesn't leak enough that I am going to worry about.

Chuck

i'm curious as how much it will expand when heated. I used 1/4" wall pipe along with the flange i put on thats another 1/8" thick. so my total thickness at the edges would be 3/8" in. I know when you smoke the barrel temp usually hovers anywhere from 200-275 degress F. depending on what you are cooking and your fire load. the top portion of the door and the sides have a great seal on them and i was just hoping for that along the bottom edge. I guess i'm just picky when it comes to minor details. I'll definitely keep everyone posted as to what comes out of this. Plus my thanks to everyone's advice/help. I greatly appreciate it

[BC Iron works]

cant read your hole post the ads are in the way
this site is realy going down hill
its getting slower and slower

[fendermender]

Excellent learner project.

My second attempt on a smoker did the same thing.
Rolled pipe with a weld seam.
I think the purpose is for billboard poles.
Anyway... I tweaked the hinges and tried to heat the flanges and beat them down to make a seal. and even thought about putting the flanges on the inside of the smoker.

Then I started cooking on it.
I learned that.. when the pit got hot enough to cook on,and starts to draw correctly,
the smoke actually turns clear and doesn't even come out around of the big lid anyway.
Straight out the exhaust.
Use dry wood preferably with no bark on it.
Keeps your meat from turning black ++++
Note the large wrench used for the counter weight on mine.
Oil pump jack tool. Note the empty place on tounge
for propane bottle and a burner for beans or flip lid over burner to heat tortillias.
Axle was the stub knuckes from Norhern tools. and heavy wall 2 inch square tubing.
When I built mine I used 3 types of welding to get the practice.
Stick mig and stick.
I love "Harleys" rub!!!!
Fire it up and call me.

Randall

2 cents.

[blaznhot_23]

^^^thanks randall for the insight. this is my first smoker so i'll have my hands full the first time out with it. BTW any ideas on a counter weight for the door??? Or does any have pics of a counter weighted smoker??? I'm not sure how much weight to put let alone if my door even needs a counter weight. please feel free to chime anyone.... thx

[fendermender]

Here is a pic of my counter weight.
I put a piece of Channel notched out on top for a pulley.
There is a slide in the channel behind two pieces of rod welded in the channel to keep the slide in the channel.
Then my weights.
The cable is connected to the bottom of the lid to a chail link welded to it.
I always bungee the weights if I tow the pit so it wont swing back and forth and break off.
There are lots of other ways to counter weight but I get a little conversation with mine.
I did not want my lids opening all the way so I put stops to prevent that.
I used a sliding dampner system on the fire box end. used a few trailer ***** on the pit. They dont seem to get that hot. and for lid handles I used free floating aluminum 1 1/4" pipe over 1/2" rod. keeps the handles cool.
Randall

[weld-tek]

i dont know the best way to explain my opinion,but i think it is a combination of a little warping,and the hinges u have(they are nice though) are too tite.i think if u had a little(play in your hinges) the gap would kinda lay better.




if it was me i would get some (looser) hinges,which would be a hr job,and then just cook on it.here is one i built this summer and the guys are right,when cold it will leak some smoke,but once the metal gets hot it will seal up.i have used the hinges u have on yours,on some different projects and they have no play,so the first little spot your door touches it is soo stiff it wont lay any better.hope i explained it ok,dont know everything but i think im pretty well spot on on this one.




here is a couple pics of the one i built.btw,nice job.

[fendermender]

i dont know the best way to explain my opinion,but i think it is a combination of a little warping,and the hinges u have(they are nice though) are too tite.i think if u had a little(play in your hinges) the gap would kinda lay better.




if it was me i would get some (looser) hinges,which would be a hr job,and then just cook on it.here is one i built this summer and the guys are right,when cold it will leak some smoke,but once the metal gets hot it will seal up.i have used the hinges u have on yours,on some different projects and they have no play,so the first little spot your door touches it is soo stiff it wont lay any better.hope i explained it ok,dont know everything but i think im pretty well spot on on this one.




here is a couple pics of the one i built.btw,nice job.

Nice rig!
Mine is fired up right now.
Randall

[Jim-TX]

cant read your hole post the ads are in the way
this site is realy going down hill
its getting slower and slower

You noticed too.



blaznhot_23,

If it were mine, I'd run 2 or 3 beads inside the door to draw it back down. You can grind them down or just leave them since they won't show from the outside unless the door is open. This method works pretty good for drawing metal back that has warped due to welding on one side.