Miller Electric

Welding Discussion Forums

Home » Resources » Communities » Welding Discussion Forums
 
Miller Welding Discussion Forums - Powered by vBulletin

Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast
Results 11 to 20 of 21
  1. #11
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Long Island, NY
    Posts
    19

    Default

    How about cutting a few "ribs" to the proper curve, clamping everything tight and tack welding the ribs in?

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Long Island, NY
    Posts
    19

    Default

    How about cutting a few "ribs" to the proper curve, clamping everything tight and tack welding the ribs in?

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Posts
    8

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Chuck_050382 View Post
    If you can get it wo seal with some latches, I wouldn't try to bend it a lot.

    I think the Metal Doctor was on to something as well. The pit will grow while in use. My smoker leaks some as it comes up to temp, but once it all gets hot it doesn't leak enough that I am going to worry about.

    Chuck
    i'm curious as how much it will expand when heated. I used 1/4" wall pipe along with the flange i put on thats another 1/8" thick. so my total thickness at the edges would be 3/8" in. I know when you smoke the barrel temp usually hovers anywhere from 200-275 degress F. depending on what you are cooking and your fire load. the top portion of the door and the sides have a great seal on them and i was just hoping for that along the bottom edge. I guess i'm just picky when it comes to minor details. I'll definitely keep everyone posted as to what comes out of this. Plus my thanks to everyone's advice/help. I greatly appreciate it

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Posts
    171

    Default

    cant read your hole post the ads are in the way
    this site is realy going down hill
    its getting slower and slower

  5. #15
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Austin Tx.
    Posts
    101

    Default Texas style bbq smoker

    Excellent learner project.

    My second attempt on a smoker did the same thing.
    Rolled pipe with a weld seam.
    I think the purpose is for billboard poles.
    Anyway... I tweaked the hinges and tried to heat the flanges and beat them down to make a seal. and even thought about putting the flanges on the inside of the smoker.

    Then I started cooking on it.
    I learned that.. when the pit got hot enough to cook on,and starts to draw correctly,
    the smoke actually turns clear and doesn't even come out around of the big lid anyway.
    Straight out the exhaust.
    Use dry wood preferably with no bark on it.
    Keeps your meat from turning black ++++
    Note the large wrench used for the counter weight on mine.
    Oil pump jack tool. Note the empty place on tounge
    for propane bottle and a burner for beans or flip lid over burner to heat tortillias.
    Axle was the stub knuckes from Norhern tools. and heavy wall 2 inch square tubing.
    When I built mine I used 3 types of welding to get the practice.
    Stick mig and stick.
    I love "Harleys" rub!!!!
    Fire it up and call me.

    Randall

    2 cents.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Posts
    8

    Default

    ^^^thanks randall for the insight. this is my first smoker so i'll have my hands full the first time out with it. BTW any ideas on a counter weight for the door??? Or does any have pics of a counter weighted smoker??? I'm not sure how much weight to put let alone if my door even needs a counter weight. please feel free to chime anyone.... thx

  7. #17
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Austin Tx.
    Posts
    101

    Default

    Here is a pic of my counter weight.
    I put a piece of Channel notched out on top for a pulley.
    There is a slide in the channel behind two pieces of rod welded in the channel to keep the slide in the channel.
    Then my weights.
    The cable is connected to the bottom of the lid to a chail link welded to it.
    I always bungee the weights if I tow the pit so it wont swing back and forth and break off.
    There are lots of other ways to counter weight but I get a little conversation with mine.
    I did not want my lids opening all the way so I put stops to prevent that.
    I used a sliding dampner system on the fire box end. used a few trailer ***** on the pit. They dont seem to get that hot. and for lid handles I used free floating aluminum 1 1/4" pipe over 1/2" rod. keeps the handles cool.
    Randall
    Attached Images Attached Images

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    campbellsville ky
    Posts
    953

    Default

    i dont know the best way to explain my opinion,but i think it is a combination of a little warping,and the hinges u have(they are nice though) are too tite.i think if u had a little(play in your hinges) the gap would kinda lay better.




    if it was me i would get some (looser) hinges,which would be a hr job,and then just cook on it.here is one i built this summer and the guys are right,when cold it will leak some smoke,but once the metal gets hot it will seal up.i have used the hinges u have on yours,on some different projects and they have no play,so the first little spot your door touches it is soo stiff it wont lay any better.hope i explained it ok,dont know everything but i think im pretty well spot on on this one.




    here is a couple pics of the one i built.btw,nice job.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  9. #19
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Austin Tx.
    Posts
    101

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by weld-tek View Post
    i dont know the best way to explain my opinion,but i think it is a combination of a little warping,and the hinges u have(they are nice though) are too tite.i think if u had a little(play in your hinges) the gap would kinda lay better.




    if it was me i would get some (looser) hinges,which would be a hr job,and then just cook on it.here is one i built this summer and the guys are right,when cold it will leak some smoke,but once the metal gets hot it will seal up.i have used the hinges u have on yours,on some different projects and they have no play,so the first little spot your door touches it is soo stiff it wont lay any better.hope i explained it ok,dont know everything but i think im pretty well spot on on this one.




    here is a couple pics of the one i built.btw,nice job.
    Nice rig!
    Mine is fired up right now.
    Randall

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Abilene, Texas
    Posts
    639

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by BC Iron works View Post
    cant read your hole post the ads are in the way
    this site is realy going down hill
    its getting slower and slower
    You noticed too.



    blaznhot_23,

    If it were mine, I'd run 2 or 3 beads inside the door to draw it back down. You can grind them down or just leave them since they won't show from the outside unless the door is open. This method works pretty good for drawing metal back that has warped due to welding on one side.
    Jim

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

Welding Projects

Special Offers: See the latest Miller deals and promotions.