i need to weld a 2 inch long crack in the stake bed of a 2006 ford and was wondering do i need to disconect anything on the truck like the battery or airbags etc. i will be tig welding the crack
thanks
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Thread: welding on a truck
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06-19-2007, 07:40 PM #1
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welding on a truck
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06-19-2007, 07:47 PM #2
I would disconnect the battery and unplug the ECM if it's still easy to get to....some wouldn't......is the bed covered under any warranty ?.....
MikeGeorge W. Bush was saving your butt whether you liked it or not!
Fear is temporary, regret is forever
HH210 with SG
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06-19-2007, 07:47 PM #3
some say disconect to be safe, others just say put the work lead as close as you can to the weld point. i have never disconected a battery and never had a problem. but i supose there could always be a first time for anything. being as its back on the bed i would just keep the work clamp(ground) as near as i could and TIG it up.
just wondering why TIG, wouldnt MIG be faster? seems like a MIG job to me unless you just want the TIG time.
thanks for the help
......or..........
hope i helped
feel free to shoot me an e-mail direct i have time to chat.
james@newyorkmetalart.com
summer is here, plant a tree. if you don't have space or time to plant one sponsor some one else to plant one for you. a tree is an investment in our planet, help it out.
JAMES
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06-19-2007, 07:53 PM #4
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tig is the only welder i have and no the bed is not covered under warranty as someone backed in to the rear side step
thanks for the input
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06-19-2007, 08:11 PM #5
I've seen automotive ECM's burned up pretty bad, I mean actually melted from welding current. These were most likely the welder's fault, grounding on the front bumper and welding on the rear. Never had any problems myself. Just to be safe, disconnecting the battery should be good enough, although origional manufactures say to disconnect the ECM as well. On a CAT 657G dual engine scraper, there are 6 ECMs, worth a few thousand each. I only shut off the two master switches for the engines then weld away.
Jonny
Dynasty 300DX
Esab PCM 1000
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06-19-2007, 08:34 PM #6
frame crack
fatman, I too, have seen ecm's get fried, disconnect the ecm and the battery. It could cost you a ton of money replacing the electrical system. I would also suggest drilling a hole at the ends of the crack as well. Dave
If necessity is the Mother of Invention, I must be the Father of Desperation!
John Blewett III 10-22-73 to 8-16-07
Another racing great gone but not to be forgotten.http://video.google.com/videoplay?do...modified&hl=en
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06-19-2007, 09:26 PM #7
i would at least disconnect the battery once forgot to
got lucky and didnt fry anything but i thought i shure had.
welding...its awsome
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06-19-2007, 10:32 PM #8
even if you decide to disconect the battery and or othere stuff , still keep the ground/work lead as close as possible.
nothing wrong with TIG i was just wondering thats all. strange to find a fella with TIG only, its usualy MIG only or stick only.
thanks for the help
......or..........
hope i helped
feel free to shoot me an e-mail direct i have time to chat.
james@newyorkmetalart.com
summer is here, plant a tree. if you don't have space or time to plant one sponsor some one else to plant one for you. a tree is an investment in our planet, help it out.
JAMES
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06-20-2007, 12:24 AM #9
Technicly he has Tig and stick.

I agree with Fun, keep the grownd as close as possible to the weld. If high freq. is allowed to wonder to far it's bowned to find some sort of sensitive electronics. Some electrical components don't even need to be powered up to be destroyed by high freq.
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06-20-2007, 01:49 AM #10
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Here you go, straight from Ford . . .
https://www.fleet.ford.com/truckbbas/non-html/Q123.pdf


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