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  1. #61
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Langley BC Canada
    Posts
    4,634

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    Quote Originally Posted by turbo38t View Post
    Lookin at all u pics I wish I could go back and just relax in my chair welding adaptors on 10 yard pc1000 buckets......seemed like it was a day an adaptor.......why did you piece the blade together on that excavator blade? The owner didn't want to spend the money for a bent blade? Dave
    Hi Dave, around these parts there is only a couple of places that are willing or able to press brake 1 offs of stuff like that in widths over 8 feet. Since the owner of the machine was most concerned with time involved, then budget, then function, and then aesthetics, I was able to save him a bit of money and time by using a couple of flat pieces for the blade. Having it formed would have looked nicer but would have cost more and taken a while until I had it to put together. Had he wanted it formed, it would have been fine by me, just would have cost a bit more.

  2. #62
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Langley BC Canada
    Posts
    4,634

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    Quote Originally Posted by MR.57 View Post
    There's some gorgeous pics in there. May I ask what rod you are using to weld the shanks on those excavator buckets?
    Thank you. I generally used Lincoln Excalibur 7018. Sometimes I'd use 11018 if I felt it was warranted, such as on a rock bucket.

  3. #63
    turbo38t Guest

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    Seems a bit cold for 1/8 7018 especially if you run a tight bead. I run 7018 anywheres between 115 and 135 depending on the situation. Dave
    Quote Originally Posted by pcwelder View Post
    Thanks coalsmoke, I use 6010 for the root only because I seem to be able to control it better in out of position stuff. Then once there is some thermal mass i can lay in the 223 (7018) with more confidence. I run 1/8" 223 @ 103 Amps for all my flat and horizontal work, the slag is almost self lifting when the heat is in that 'sweet spot'.

    Thanks again will be posting more pics when available.

  4. #64
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Mt. Clemens, Michigan
    Posts
    277

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    Coalsmoke, nice work man!

    I look foward to seeing your full site in the future

    -Josh

  5. #65
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Langley BC Canada
    Posts
    4,634

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    Thanks Josh, you've got some seriously crazy stuff in your gallery. I like that 429 stang!

  6. #66
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Langley BC Canada
    Posts
    4,634

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    Quote Originally Posted by turbo38t View Post
    Seems a bit cold for 1/8 7018 especially if you run a tight bead. I run 7018 anywheres between 115 and 135 depending on the situation. Dave
    Naw, depends on the machine, the application of the piece, and other factors, like if you have a 300*F preheat on it. On the trailblazer 302 it had a hot and watery arc, and I was finding that I was often in the 95-105A range when burning 1/8 7018. I figure a person shouldn't be too concerned with the numbers, just set it up so its working right for you, your job and your particular machine.

  7. #67
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Mt. Clemens, Michigan
    Posts
    277

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    Quote Originally Posted by Coalsmoke View Post
    Naw, depends on the machine, the application of the piece, and other factors, like if you have a 300*F preheat on it. On the trailblazer 302 it had a hot and watery arc, and I was finding that I was often in the 95-105A range when burning 1/8 7018. I figure a person shouldn't be too concerned with the numbers, just set it up so its working right for you, your job and your particular machine.
    x2 for sure

  8. #68
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Posts
    5

    Default Beads

    Quote Originally Posted by SignWave View Post
    We havent had any beads around here in a while. I'd love to see some decent Stainless welds- seeing as how thats where my troubles have been lately. Anyone care to share?

    Ive pasted 4 pics. Four different levels of competance. 4 pics, 4 minutes of experience....
    I looked at your welds, they are oxidixed, this happens from welding too hot or not properly shielding the material or a combination of both.Stainless steel needs to be shielded from the backside to prevent this from happening,when stainless steel oxidizes it refuses to flow.The welders natural tendency is to increase heat which makes the problem worse.There are other variables that can contribute to dirty welds, such as tungsten size,rod feeding techniques,dirty material, dirty tungsten, etc.

  9. #69
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Posts
    1

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    try using a gas lense to keep the argon purge dispersed,,, good argon coverage and good heat ranges give you the pretty colors. Cook it and youll see black every time.

  10. #70
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    NB
    Posts
    1

    Default

    I can only dream to end up as you guys!
    I almost lost an internal organ looking at some of these beads.. lol

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