The height of the top is a bit of a compromise between looks and functionality. It still works good in my opinion but for just a work truck for a contractor, a little taller would probably be better.
As far as shipping goes, it just fall under the 130" max (length+girth) for UPS. I wouldn't buy it If I lived across the country though; the shipping is not cheap. A short hop across states might be worth it if this is just what the customer is looking for.
EDIT: I guess I should have done multi-quotes...
Results 11 to 20 of 28
Thread: New Truck Rack design
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05-28-2008, 08:46 PM #11
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05-28-2008, 08:48 PM #12
The rack itself may be too short. I crazily carry 20' pieces a lot on top of my rack and at this height the metal would probably whack the roof if I went over a bump. Even though it doesn't look as good, the top of my racks are ~ 7-8" above the roof.
Also it might be nice to have a full cleat in the middle and some other tie down point at the base.
Have you noticed any whistling?
My rack (I didn't make it):
Miller Maxstar 200 DX
RMLS-14 Momentary Hand Control
Miller Syncrowave 180 SD
Porter Cable 14" dry metal saw
Hitachi 4.5" grinder
http://mhayesdesign.com
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05-28-2008, 08:59 PM #13
"The rack mounts to the front stake pockets in the bed by a simple plate with a nut welded on the backside that sandwiches the edges of the stake pockets between it and the rack. It is surprisingly strong and means no drilling."
I looked at the pics and missed this part.
So, I said the bolt was too close to the pocket and would pull out if someone hit the brakes with the rack loaded heavily. If you sold one, some redneck would load 'er up. I also said "I'm just a hobby guy and don't like to judge the work of others, but you asked."
So my critique was based on my inattention.
RETIRED desk jockey.
Hobby weldor with a little training.
Craftsman O/A---Flat, Vert, Ovhd, Horz.
Miller Syncrowave 250.
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05-28-2008, 09:04 PM #14
with 20' sticks of steel there would definitely be a problem with this rack. I only built the front part that protects the cab, not the full rack like you have so tying things down is a bit different.
More tie down points will definitely go in the revised design. Thanks for the advice.
Oh and no whistling
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05-28-2008, 09:10 PM #15
That was and still is a bit of a concern. I left enough room on the mounting brackets to drill a hole and mount through the bedrail at another point but this way was surprisingly strong.
I agree with you completely though that some idiot would overload this thing and expect me to fix it
Thanks for the advice Craig
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05-28-2008, 09:25 PM #16
Miller Maxstar 200 DX
RMLS-14 Momentary Hand Control
Miller Syncrowave 180 SD
Porter Cable 14" dry metal saw
Hitachi 4.5" grinder
http://mhayesdesign.com
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05-29-2008, 02:45 PM #17
You should put a weight limit on them if you're going to sell them. Think of liabilaty. I made some and the worked fine, but you never know what people will do. Insurance is the best policy.
Millermatic 210
Syncrowave 200
Spectrum 625 X-treme
Hobart Champion 16 W/
Miller 8VS Suitcase
Miller 3035 Spool Gun
Tons of Tools
Microwave
Laptop and Printer
Speakers in the Back for all to hear Sirius Radio!
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05-29-2008, 03:01 PM #18
If necessity is the Mother of Invention, I must be the Father of Desperation!
John Blewett III 10-22-73 to 8-16-07
Another racing great gone but not to be forgotten.http://video.google.com/videoplay?do...modified&hl=en
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05-29-2008, 05:59 PM #19
I absolutely agree! I need to figure out what the weight limit should be exactly and maybe, if I really get into selling these, I can stamp the max weight into the rack.
Thanks for all the advice and input guys! It's interesting to see other people's views and knowledge from around the nation (and maybe further) applied to my project.
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05-29-2008, 10:55 PM #20
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I looked for rubber material to bufer my rack that I am working on. After a bit of thinking on where I could get some medium sized pieces I remembered some PVC shower liner that I have left over from a job. Lowes and HD sell it by the foot as well as in sheets in the plumbing dept. If you know a tile guy, you might be able to grab some of his scraps cheap.



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