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  1. #11
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Northern CA
    Posts
    90

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    Quote Originally Posted by DSW View Post
    For me the top extensions are too short. Looks to be only 3-4" max. I actually put lumber on my racks and that's only 2-3 2x's stacked. Nit picking I know.

    Looks very nice BTW. Does it fit in an acceptable size box for UPS or FedEx shipping? I forget the max sizes they accept. You may be able to make the design a breakdown design if the horizontal bar could slide down over the vertical supports and get secured with a bolt. Just a thought for decreasing shipping costs and box costs. I would also think about powercoating the frame as suggested above.
    The height of the top is a bit of a compromise between looks and functionality. It still works good in my opinion but for just a work truck for a contractor, a little taller would probably be better.
    As far as shipping goes, it just fall under the 130" max (length+girth) for UPS. I wouldn't buy it If I lived across the country though; the shipping is not cheap. A short hop across states might be worth it if this is just what the customer is looking for.


    EDIT: I guess I should have done multi-quotes...

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Austin, TX
    Posts
    621

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    The rack itself may be too short. I crazily carry 20' pieces a lot on top of my rack and at this height the metal would probably whack the roof if I went over a bump. Even though it doesn't look as good, the top of my racks are ~ 7-8" above the roof.

    Also it might be nice to have a full cleat in the middle and some other tie down point at the base.

    Have you noticed any whistling?

    My rack (I didn't make it):

    Miller Maxstar 200 DX
    RMLS-14 Momentary Hand Control
    Miller Syncrowave 180 SD
    Porter Cable 14" dry metal saw
    Hitachi 4.5" grinder
    http://mhayesdesign.com

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Colorado
    Posts
    673

    Cool

    "The rack mounts to the front stake pockets in the bed by a simple plate with a nut welded on the backside that sandwiches the edges of the stake pockets between it and the rack. It is surprisingly strong and means no drilling."

    I looked at the pics and missed this part.

    So, I said the bolt was too close to the pocket and would pull out if someone hit the brakes with the rack loaded heavily. If you sold one, some redneck would load 'er up. I also said "I'm just a hobby guy and don't like to judge the work of others, but you asked."

    So my critique was based on my inattention.
    RETIRED desk jockey.

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  4. #14
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Northern CA
    Posts
    90

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by tasslehawf View Post
    The rack itself may be too short. I crazily carry 20' pieces a lot on top of my rack and at this height the metal would probably whack the roof if I went over a bump. Even though it doesn't look as good, the top of my racks are ~ 7-8" above the roof.

    Also it might be nice to have a full cleat in the middle and some other tie down point at the base.

    Have you noticed any whistling?

    My rack (I didn't make it):

    with 20' sticks of steel there would definitely be a problem with this rack. I only built the front part that protects the cab, not the full rack like you have so tying things down is a bit different.
    More tie down points will definitely go in the revised design. Thanks for the advice.

    Oh and no whistling

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Northern CA
    Posts
    90

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Craig in Denver View Post
    "The rack mounts to the front stake pockets in the bed by a simple plate with a nut welded on the backside that sandwiches the edges of the stake pockets between it and the rack. It is surprisingly strong and means no drilling."

    I looked at the pics and missed this part.

    So, I said the bolt was too close to the pocket and would pull out if someone hit the brakes with the rack loaded heavily. If you sold one, some redneck would load 'er up. I also said "I'm just a hobby guy and don't like to judge the work of others, but you asked."

    So my critique was based on my inattention.
    That was and still is a bit of a concern. I left enough room on the mounting brackets to drill a hole and mount through the bedrail at another point but this way was surprisingly strong.
    I agree with you completely though that some idiot would overload this thing and expect me to fix it
    Thanks for the advice Craig

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Austin, TX
    Posts
    621

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    Quote Originally Posted by dabeldesign View Post
    with 20' sticks of steel there would definitely be a problem with this rack. I only built the front part that protects the cab, not the full rack like you have so tying things down is a bit different.
    More tie down points will definitely go in the revised design. Thanks for the advice.

    Oh and no whistling
    Yeah, I wasn't sure if your rack was just one or two. Just one it makes more sense.
    Miller Maxstar 200 DX
    RMLS-14 Momentary Hand Control
    Miller Syncrowave 180 SD
    Porter Cable 14" dry metal saw
    Hitachi 4.5" grinder
    http://mhayesdesign.com

  7. #17
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    San Diego
    Posts
    180

    Default

    You should put a weight limit on them if you're going to sell them. Think of liabilaty. I made some and the worked fine, but you never know what people will do. Insurance is the best policy.
    Millermatic 210
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  8. #18
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Vero Beach, fl.
    Posts
    761

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    Quote Originally Posted by lanceman73 View Post
    You should put a weight limit on them if you're going to sell them. Think of liabilaty. I made some and the worked fine, but you never know what people will do. Insurance is the best policy.
    That is some great advice right there! Smart thinkin'
    If necessity is the Mother of Invention, I must be the Father of Desperation!

    John Blewett III 10-22-73 to 8-16-07
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  9. #19
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Northern CA
    Posts
    90

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by lanceman73 View Post
    You should put a weight limit on them if you're going to sell them. Think of liabilaty. I made some and the worked fine, but you never know what people will do. Insurance is the best policy.
    I absolutely agree! I need to figure out what the weight limit should be exactly and maybe, if I really get into selling these, I can stamp the max weight into the rack.

    Thanks for all the advice and input guys! It's interesting to see other people's views and knowledge from around the nation (and maybe further) applied to my project.

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    North of Phila. PA
    Posts
    404

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    Quote Originally Posted by dabeldesign View Post
    Oh and about the "buffer" I still need to pick up some rubber matting. Any good sources for something like that besides McMaster-Carr or the obvious Home Depot?
    I looked for rubber material to bufer my rack that I am working on. After a bit of thinking on where I could get some medium sized pieces I remembered some PVC shower liner that I have left over from a job. Lowes and HD sell it by the foot as well as in sheets in the plumbing dept. If you know a tile guy, you might be able to grab some of his scraps cheap.

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