When you use WD -40 on a die grinder bit or spray it on the material it will cut a silver storm.So you should use safety glasses and a face sheild.and gauntlet type gloves.and button up your coveralls.I swear to god about the silver storm.
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Thread: Precleaning Aluminum
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06-14-2007, 05:38 PM #11
Aluminum
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06-14-2007, 06:31 PM #12
After using a lubricant or coolant on carbide bits on aluminum, the surface should be cleaned of the lubricant. Methyl alchohol works very well, and leaves no film, as well as another product cleaner by the name of S-22. Waxes and lubricants for cutting equipment work wonders with aluminum, which tends to stick to the carbides, plugging up the cuting action and eventually over-heating the carbide. For aluminum pressure welding the accepted method was to use cutting wax or a WD-40 type lubricant for the cutting, (carbide burrs or circular saw blades / band saws) then clean the surface with methanol. Wire brushing was performed just seconds before welding.
Jonny
Dynasty 300DX
Esab PCM 1000
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06-15-2007, 06:01 AM #13
Right on about the glasses, face shield. I Always wear them. A carbide burr will solid throw some, sharp little pieces. I hate em, They work good, but i try not to use them unless I have too. I will try the wd-40 though. I have a couple made for aluminum and theyw ork better than ones made for steel.
Scott
HMW [Heavy Metal welding]
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06-15-2007, 11:26 AM #14
Junior Member
- Join Date
- Jun 2007
- Location
- Illinois
- Posts
- 4
Precleaning Aluminum
Stainless Steel Wire Brush Only!
LPS Zero Tri is a great chemical cleaner to use.
For best results hit it with some type of S.S. brush then wipe it with LPS Zero Tri.Steve Beckman
Rockford Industrial Welding Supply, Inc.
"Setting the Standard in Service"
1.800.226.1904
riws.com
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06-15-2007, 05:45 PM #15
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06-15-2007, 06:42 PM #16
not positive but i think its a brand name chemical etcher. i have herd it will help with getting better penitration if its the stuff i'm thinking of.
thanks for the help
......or..........
hope i helped
feel free to shoot me an e-mail direct i have time to chat.
james@newyorkmetalart.com
summer is here, plant a tree. if you don't have space or time to plant one sponsor some one else to plant one for you. a tree is an investment in our planet, help it out.
JAMES
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06-15-2007, 07:57 PM #17
Sounds like a brand name, the S-22 I mentioned is a product name, made by who I don't know. Mild caustic etcher, you want to wear rubber gloves using those kinds of products, and have good ventilation.
Jonny
Dynasty 300DX
Esab PCM 1000
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06-16-2007, 04:26 PM #18
Hey HMW
Did you get a chance to use the WD-40?
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06-17-2007, 08:59 AM #19
Al is rather fussy and dosen't like anything but itself. Alumicut is a lubricant made specially for putting the slicks to Al. The reason grinding wheels or burr bits pile up is AL gets plastic around 750 degress. Thus it molds and smears plugging up removal tools. You just can't grind it like steel. You must move around to keep the heat down or wait.
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06-17-2007, 09:08 AM #20
a lil wax on the flap disk goes a long way., just as it will on cutting blades.

quick simple and no clean up needed, hit it with the SS brush and TIG away.
thanks for the help
......or..........
hope i helped
feel free to shoot me an e-mail direct i have time to chat.
james@newyorkmetalart.com
summer is here, plant a tree. if you don't have space or time to plant one sponsor some one else to plant one for you. a tree is an investment in our planet, help it out.
JAMES


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