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  1. #11
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Carlsbad, CA
    Posts
    27

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    Cleaver,
    The system ate my first post, so I'll try again...

    I recently picked up a Slugger dry cut chop saw. I have not used it enough to comment on the cost per cut data, but can give my initial impression on its cutting abilities. Slugger sells blades optimized for SS, mild steel, and aluminum. I purchased the mild and SS blades. The blades are costly, but may outlast carborundum, and will not lose cutting capacity as it wears. The saw cuts very clean and square, leaving a thin very sharp burr which is easy to remove. The shavings are very sharp also, so care is exersised when cleaning up! It cuts thin walled tubing very well up to .25" wall. On thick sections it is less than happy requiring slow feed pressure. I cut some 3" X 3" X 1/4 wall tubes for a fab table with good speed and nice square ends. If I were cutting 1/2" I would go to the bandsaw. Noise is about equal to carborundum, so hearing protection is a good idea. I don't miss the smell of carborundum in the morning either! Time will tell if dry saws are cost effective.
    Russ

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Vancouver, Canada
    Posts
    67

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    Hi Russ,

    Thank you for your post. Would you happen to have pictures of the cuts that you made and the machine itself? I wanna see how its constructed and etc.

    Thanks again...

    Regards,
    Cleaver
    newbi welder

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Carlsbad, CA
    Posts
    27

    Default

    Clever,
    Here is a picture of the saw. I don't have any shots of the cuts.
    Russ
    Attached Images Attached Images
    BFM
    Dynasty 200DX
    Passport Plus

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Vancouver, Canada
    Posts
    67

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by RWC View Post
    Clever,
    Here is a picture of the saw. I don't have any shots of the cuts.
    Russ

    Hi Russ,

    Thank you for the pictures. The machine looks like the Millwuakee one, but different color and etc. Where can you buy that product?

    Does Slugger brand sell blades inself only or only with the machine?

    Thank you.

    Regards,
    cleaver
    newbi welder

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Carlsbad, CA
    Posts
    27

    Default

    I bought the saw from Westair in San Diego. There was a special going on that had the saw and 2 mild steel cutting blades for $399.00. They sell the blades separatly as well.
    Here is a link to Jancy, who sells Slugger.
    http://www.jancy.com/index.cfm?fusea...&productid=124
    Russ
    BFM
    Dynasty 200DX
    Passport Plus

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Queens NY
    Posts
    1,547

    Default

    I have the milwaukee version of that saw, and i do like it. It's not perfect however, miters can be tough especially on short pieces, and the blades can go on you really fast if your not careful. I started out using a water based coolant from McMaster Carr. It's a bout 18 bucks a gallon and you dilute it 20:1 so it is economoical. I put it in a squirt bottle, and keep the cut very wet. Using this method my first blade lasted longer than i thought it would. In fact i got lazy and stopped using the coolant, shortly thereafter my blade went dull, so i mounted the spare and wiped it out in a few cuts on thin 4130!! (milwaukee blades) i then bought the freud blades from e-bay i tried a few cuts without coolant to test and they work well, but from now on i use the little squirt bottle (well worth 20 bucks!). One note about cutting with this type of saw, you will be tempted to cut flat or solid stock, with the blade against the widest side (flat bar flat in the clamp, i think you can cut wider than standing it up) do NOT do it!! It kills blades, i have hard it reccomended that no more than 2-3 teeth should engage the metal at any one time, i would stick to this reccomedation. Cut with the narrowest side of the material facing the blade, and try to orient the blade (by adjusting the holding clamp)so this is true. And use the coolant!

    McMaster.com PN 1216K15
    Dynasty 200 DX
    Millermatic 175
    Spectrum 375
    All kinds of Smith OA gear

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Carlsbad, CA
    Posts
    27

    Default

    Thanks for the info Laiky,
    I discovered right away that it is best to stand flatbar vertically when cutting from a speed standpoint. I also noticed that the saw head bounces a little when cutting the other way.
    When it is unavoidable to cut flat, like in cutting large square tube, all you can do is feed lightly. It still cuts fairly fast with light feed pressure. I also lift back out every few seconds to allow some cooling air to get to the teeth. Too bad it's hard to hold square tube standing on one corner so you're cutting no flat sections! I want to test my first blade without coolant to see how she goes. Less pre-weld cleanup and mess. I use my bandsaw dry too for that reason. Bandsaw blades are cheap though.
    Do you get any rusting with the Mc Master coolant? Does it wash off the steel with water?
    Russ
    BFM
    Dynasty 200DX
    Passport Plus

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Posts
    1

    Default

    Just used a Rigid recip saw blade, 24 tpi, to cut through 4" stainless steel exhaust pipe like butter.

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Maryland
    Posts
    707

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Dustyj80 View Post
    Just used a Rigid recip saw blade, 24 tpi, to cut through 4" stainless steel exhaust pipe like butter.
    The issue isn't just making a cut, the issue is prepping for welding, which requires a precise cut.

    Up to about 15 gauge stainless - 3" and 4" I use dry cut blade. I have used an abrassive blade in the past but the kerf varies with how much heat is generated and quite frankly the cleanup is too much.

    Often I buy pre-bent tubing (just don't have $40,000 laying around for a mandrel bender) and need to bi-sect the angle. I have used abrasive blades in a miter saw (that doesn't work well because the abrassive blades heat the metal and melt through the plastic insert on these wood cutting saws).
    I like vertical band saws the best.

    The ultimate idea:
    http://www.icengineworks.com/icewmain.htm
    http://www.icengineworks.com/PIV0872dpi.JPG

    Now I don't have a bandsaw like that (not enough room right now) but you can do something similar with porta-saws.
    http://www.swagoffroad.com/Porta_ban...t_Product.html

    Now, on that last one, the plate that mounts on the saw is very stable/straight etc. The problem is the saw table is not. A little warpage here and there, just enough to throw things off. You will want to flame bend it a bit.... tiny bit, to get everything 100% level or the tubing will rock.

    I have 'outriggers' welded on both sides of the table - scroll down on that last page and see the miter gauge attachment. Those aren't perfect, but they are good enough. The miter gauge attachment are tack welded on both sides and as parallel as I can measure. I have a stainless steel plate that mates up to them and gives me the alignment that I need. I have done 3" stainless that way and needs very very minor cleanup with sander.

    For sander I have a delta combo with 6" wide belt + 12" disk. 12" disk can handle 3" exhaust just fine. I haven't tried larger. I think it can do 4" though.

    I'll try to get a picture up later.

    Note: dewault Portaband are in many respects better than Milwaukee - built-in work light, better protection around wheels etc. But they don't move as fast and they don't have a lock holding trigger down.

    As for using sawsall, I have recently cut apart a stocker exhaust system (my wife's Durango, nothing special) and welded it back together with some 3/32 rod. Looks were not important and a I don't think I could have gotten my TIG torch in there anyway (I have no short cap for the WP17 on my little Maxstar).
    Note, stick welding went OK until I set the creeper on fire... I see this bright light behind the helmet.... Just a quick flair up. No damage, no injury. Just a few stray arc strikes as I got out of there.
    Con Fuse!
    Miller Dynasty 350
    Millermatic 350P
    -Spoolmatic 30A

    Hypertherm PowerMax 1000G3
    Miller Multimatic 200 - awesome portable MIG (and stick and TIG)
    Miller Maxstar 200DX - portable TIG and stick

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    The Peoples Republic of Southern California
    Posts
    80

    Default

    I have the Rage 3 and have cut a lot of 2X2X1/4 and .120 wall with it it works great

    Bout i have not done any SS with it
    Backed my CATMA over your CARMA
    OOP"S clumsy me

    What would SATAN do ??

    Miller Digital Elite (new)
    Jackson EQC master (old)
    Miller Trail Blazer 302 Air Pak
    Spectrum 625 Extreme
    Suitcase 12RC
    Evolution Rage 3 saw
    Victor O/A
    Craftsmen Atlas 12X36 Lathe
    Half a ton of tooling
    Rusty old truck

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