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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Toronto Canada
    Posts
    30

    Default Good paint process for trailer???

    Just finishing up a new trailer for myself, need some input on paint!

    obviously its a utility trailer, to haul around junk, its gonna get bashed around and abused, but i want it to look good and look good for a long time!

    Wanted to know if anyone out there had a process that they use or know of that works well to get a nice durable/rust free finish, especially in regards to metal prep..... before paint...
    Garage Guy Chris
    equipment:
    -Miller matic 210 w/ spoolgun
    -Syncrowave 180SD

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Salem ,Ohio
    Posts
    3,919

    Cool

    Primer and paint from the farm store...Bob
    Bob Wright, Grandson of Tee Nee Boat Trailer Founder
    Metal Master Fab Salem, Oh 44460
    Birthplace of the Silver & Deming Drill
    1999 MM185 w/185 Spoolgun,1986 Thunderbolt AC/DC
    Spool Gun conversion. How To Do It. Below.
    http://www.millerwelds.com/resources...php?albumid=48

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    dallas,tx
    Posts
    207

    Default

    I have had decent results with rustoleum red oxide primer and gloss black from Home Cheapo, a gallon of each runs about 65 bucks, thin it with laquer thinner and there you go.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Baldwin, NY
    Posts
    275

    Default

    I Used Rustoleum Rusty Metal primer, 2 coats and k7779 Gloss black enamel, 3 coats.

    Each coat was about a gallon of paint, and I thinned it alot.

    Good news, is the first day I drove it, me not quite used to having 35' behind me, and the trailer not tracking behind the truck like a bumper pull, hit and destroyed a wooden saw horse. But barely scratched the paint, and it didnt even make it to the primer, so i'd say it's fairly durable... Honestly though, who puts a saw horse right at the corner edge of a weigh station...lol.. oops.

    Voigt Precision Welding, Inc.

    Miller Dynasty 200 DX, Miller Syncrowave 250, MillerMatic 252, Hypertherm Powermax 45, Auto Arc Trailpower 8000,272+187 lb Peter Wright anvil, 120 lb Fisher-norris, and more! Buffalo drill press, Grizzly Horiz. Bandsaw, Edwards shear, Barth Shear, bantam mechanical ironworker, Hopkins fly press, Doall Bandsaw, brown and sharpe surface grinder.

    2007 Silverado 2500HD (tow vehicle)
    2000 Camaro SS (Race car)

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    pine city mn.
    Posts
    20

    Default

    I really like the john deere primer.

    fist i sand all metal then sand with a 180 grit paper. wipe down with paint remover or thinner. or any cleaner that will cut oil and not leave a residue.

    then i prime, when that is cured i wet sand to 180 again. and prime another coat if need be or do some touch up.

    sand 180 again and put on the first coat of base coat. wet sand with 180 by hand. next coat wet sand 180, third coat i wet sand with a 320 very lightly, and then work my way up to 1200-2000 grit. then clear coat. wet sand clear coat at 1200-2000 grit, put on next coat of clear coat, same thing then buff and polish to a mirror shine.

    you should add some hardner to the base coat. it helps dry faster, adds some shine and stregnth to the paint.

    i recomend clear coating as it will help seal the paint to protect from oils/chemicals and the sun.

    orileys has some decent products in there auto master line. not the cheapest but if you want a 2000 dollar paint job look for a couple hundred dollars its the way to go.

    if you can buy cheap paint for 100 bucks for the project, why not spend 200 bucks on the paint and get a better product?

    why did you buy a miller welder for $1000 dollars when you could have got the "same" thing for 500 from home depot?

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    National City CA
    Posts
    1,086

    Default

    Frazee Aeroplate (sp?) good stuff can be brushed, rolled, or sprayed. many colors and many sheans. about $20 a gallon.
    Or sherwin william Polane epoxy paint good stuff but expensive Boss paid the bill I don't know what it cost.

    Kerry
    Miller Syncrowave 200 W/Radiator 1A & water cooled torch
    Millermatic 252 on the wish list
    Bridgeport Mill W/ 2 axis CNC control
    South bend lathe 10LX40
    K.O. Lee surface grinder 6X18
    Over 20 years as a Machinist Toolmaker
    A TWO CAR garage full of tools and a fridge full of beer
    Auto shades are for rookies
    www.KLStottlemyer.com

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Posts
    612

    Default

    Sandblast it, Self etching primer, block sand, high build primer, dust with a color coat, block sand, base coat, block sand base coat, Candy colors (graphics) clear coat, cut & buff.











    I'm kidding....... I'm Kidding...........

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    National City CA
    Posts
    1,086

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by pro70z28 View Post
    Sandblast it, Self etching primer, block sand, high build primer, dust with a color coat, block sand, base coat, block sand base coat, Candy colors (graphics) clear coat, cut & buff.











    I'm kidding....... I'm Kidding...........

    you forgot to mention it's 20 plus coats of primer that is blocked along with the color coats. Lots and lots of work doing a true candy job.
    Miller Syncrowave 200 W/Radiator 1A & water cooled torch
    Millermatic 252 on the wish list
    Bridgeport Mill W/ 2 axis CNC control
    South bend lathe 10LX40
    K.O. Lee surface grinder 6X18
    Over 20 years as a Machinist Toolmaker
    A TWO CAR garage full of tools and a fridge full of beer
    Auto shades are for rookies
    www.KLStottlemyer.com

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Posts
    612

    Default

    Oh, this is just the down N' dirty version.......It's a trailer......

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Toronto Canada
    Posts
    30

    Default

    Hello again, havent decided on the paint yet... more interested in surface prep, last thing i did i degreased the metal with mineral spirits and primer and paint, its not standing up at all.

    this time around i was thinking something like:

    -degrease (not sure what to use)
    -scotchbrite/wire brush scuff it up a bit
    -degrease again
    -some sort of an etching primer
    -then 3 coats of some sort of rust paint

    I keep seeing "metal prep" type products that seem to basically be phosphoric acid, any input on these???

    Any other input on surface prep would be helpful, and thanks for all the help so far!
    Last edited by Garage guy chris; 05-04-2008 at 01:10 AM.
    Garage Guy Chris
    equipment:
    -Miller matic 210 w/ spoolgun
    -Syncrowave 180SD

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