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  1. #11
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Austin, TX
    Posts
    621

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Dark Helmet View Post
    Thanks, I'll try giving them a call. I just checked out your website. Pretty cool stuff. Have you been doing concrete a long time?
    Been doing the concrete for about 4 years. Getting out of it now. I'm trying to stick to metal and design work. I need to put up a new website with mostly metal.
    Miller Maxstar 200 DX
    RMLS-14 Momentary Hand Control
    Miller Syncrowave 180 SD
    Porter Cable 14" dry metal saw
    Hitachi 4.5" grinder
    http://mhayesdesign.com

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Los Angeles
    Posts
    2,817

    Default

    We're gonna have to have an LA get together

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    MIRABEL , QUEBEC , CANADA
    Posts
    50

    Default

    SNIF, SNIF , I CAN'T OPEN THE PICTURES , I WANT TO SEE THEM , ME TO I AM DOING SOME METAL ART AND STEEL FURNITURE , YESTERDAY I BROUGHT A TABLE FOR PLACAGE ( BRUSH NICKEL PEWTER ) , I WILL PUT PICTURE WHEN IT ARRIVE.

    Bobby
    FABRICATION-CRÉATION K ZEN

    MILLERMATIC 210
    SPOOLMATE 3035
    SYNCROWAVE 200
    HYPERTHERM 360

  4. #14

    Default Pics

    hey,

    Why can't you see the pictures? Is there a problem with the link?
    I see your schwartz is as big as mine!

    Miller Passport Plus
    ESAB Mini Arc 150APS
    Various other nifty accouterments

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Indiana
    Posts
    22

    Angry re:SNIF, SNIF , I CAN'T OPEN THE PICTURES , I WANT TO SEE THEM

    I've had the same challenge. What I found to work is -for links- highlight the link , copy and past it to my browser's search bar- it's a little extra work but it helps to make the forum more enjoyable. For pictures -right click as save as -this allows me to view them- I just delete them when I head to the next thread.

    I only see to have these problems here @ Miller's forum and @ the welding web forum, all the other forums that I visit don't give me problems.


    The problem that I can't see to get around in here is the inability to add attachments- so many time I've wanted to post picture of my weldig rig trailer set-up and can't --sniff-sniff me too
    Martin
    Welding Technician
    AWS Certified Welding Inspector
    AWS Certified Welding Educator
    ASNT ACCP Level II VT/GI/D
    www.linkedin.com/pub/martin-cramer/20/b36/940/

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    MIRABEL , QUEBEC , CANADA
    Posts
    50

    Default

    IT,S OK NOW ,I SAW THE PICTURES, I THINK IT WAS MY MISTAKE .

    NICE WORK ON THE WINDOWS

    I HAVE A QUESTION FOR YOU DARK HELMET , DID YOU WELD A PIECE OF STEEL TO HOLD THE WINDOW IN PLACE .

    Bobby
    FABRICATION-CRÉATION K ZEN

    MILLERMATIC 210
    SPOOLMATE 3035
    SYNCROWAVE 200
    HYPERTHERM 360

  7. #17

    Default Welded piece?

    Hey,

    Do you mean where the glazing stop is? The piece that holds the glass pane against the "T" bar frames from the outside? If so, then yeah, I tack welded steel stops onto the outside with 2 small tack beads.

    We went back and forth about that a lot. I wanted to drill and tap them for serviceability, but there were so many! 4 stops on each pane (top, bottom, both sides), 2 holes/ taps per stop makes 8 holes per pane and 8 holes in each section of the frame that the screw would thread into as well. 40 panes! That makes 16 holes and 8 taps per pane (and countersinking).

    That comes to a grand total of 640 holes and 320 taps. Not to mention making sure that they're all in the exact right place so that everything lines up, holds the panes at the right place and is actually able to be screwed in when it was done. And they were being painted so there's the issue of paint in the holes/ threads... You get the picture... it was a **** of a lot more work. Work we just didn't have time for.

    So I told them that if there was a problem, they could quickly cut the tacks with a cut-off wheel with a grinder, change the pane, and have someone out to re-tack them. Not as easy as a screwdriver, but also not the end of the world.

    Once they were tacked in, the tacks were primed (the stop material had already been pre-primed.) Then the metal to metal joints were caulked with Vulkem caulking (bronze). Then the whole unit was given another 2 coats of finish paint. Then the window pane to painted edge joints were caulked with clear silicone.

    Did that answer your question?
    I see your schwartz is as big as mine!

    Miller Passport Plus
    ESAB Mini Arc 150APS
    Various other nifty accouterments

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Oahu, Hawaii
    Posts
    2,469

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Dark Helmet View Post
    Hey,

    Do you mean where the glazing stop is? The piece that holds the glass pane against the "T" bar frames from the outside? If so, then yeah, I tack welded steel stops onto the outside with 2 small tack beads.

    We went back and forth about that a lot. I wanted to drill and tap them for serviceability, but there were so many! 4 stops on each pane (top, bottom, both sides), 2 holes/ taps per stop makes 8 holes per pane and 8 holes in each section of the frame that the screw would thread into as well. 40 panes! That makes 16 holes and 8 taps per pane (and countersinking).

    That comes to a grand total of 640 holes and 320 taps. Not to mention making sure that they're all in the exact right place so that everything lines up, holds the panes at the right place and is actually able to be screwed in when it was done. And they were being painted so there's the issue of paint in the holes/ threads... You get the picture... it was a **** of a lot more work. Work we just didn't have time for.

    So I told them that if there was a problem, they could quickly cut the tacks with a cut-off wheel with a grinder, change the pane, and have someone out to re-tack them. Not as easy as a screwdriver, but also not the end of the world.

    Once they were tacked in, the tacks were primed (the stop material had already been pre-primed.) Then the metal to metal joints were caulked with Vulkem caulking (bronze). Then the whole unit was given another 2 coats of finish paint. Then the window pane to painted edge joints were caulked with clear silicone.

    Did that answer your question?
    Good post! Thanks for the explanations, and again, beautiful work!!!!!!!
    I'm not late...
    I'm just on Hawaiian Time

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