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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Posts
    612

    Default Billet aluminum dash bezel

    This does eventually turn into a welding project.

    I started out by downloading pictures of the gauges I'll be using, off the net and printing them out actual size on the printer. Then made actual size PVC mock-ups on the CNC.


    Then I made a dash bezel template. Designed the gauge layout and machined the bezel from 1/4" aluminum plate.



    The bezel & gauges mocked up
    Last edited by pro70z28; 04-20-2008 at 10:22 PM.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Posts
    612

    Default

    I had to play around with the brake to get the right set-up to bend the bezel to conform to the fiberglass dash.


    Bending the bezel.



    Got the bezel formed to the correct angles. Ready to fit to the dash.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    North of Phila. PA
    Posts
    404

    Default

    Thats D@MN nice work! Very pretty, I like it alot. Looks alot like the dash for an older Mopar. Whats it for?

    Ok skip the mopar part, you hadn't put the 2nd post up when I replied.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Posts
    612

    Default

    I cut the dash opening and then fiberglassed the bezel to the dash with a release agent, to get a good fit. The bezel will be mounted to the chassis and the fiberglass dash will be removable to service electrical stuff.


    Here's where the welding finally comes in. I added aluminum strap top & bottom to stiffen up the bezel to support the gauges. And, to provide a place for mounting grommets.



    Roughed in & temporarily fit in the car to make sure everything will fit as planned.


    That's it so far. Still have a long way to go, but I'm getting there.
    Last edited by pro70z28; 04-20-2008 at 10:11 PM.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    S.W. Pennsylvania
    Posts
    2,250

    Default

    Why did you turn the brake fingers upside down? Was that to gain extra clearance for the thick material?
    Nice looking piece.
    To all who contribute to this board.
    My sincere thanks , Pete.

    Pureox OA
    Westinghouse 300 amp AC stick
    Miller Syncrowave 250
    Hexacon 250 watt solder iron

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Posts
    612

    Default

    Thanks DSW. It's going in the "Z".





  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Posts
    612

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by burninbriar View Post
    Why did you turn the brake fingers upside down? Was that to gain extra clearance for the thick material?
    Nice looking piece.
    Yes. I flipped them over to move them back from the edge. I then put a radius edge on a 1/2" pc. of aluminum, the same radius I wanted on the bezel. Also, using the 1/2' plate spread the load over several fingers since I was bending thicker material than I'm supposed to with this brake. I drilled & tapped a couple bolts in the 1/2 plate so I could put the fingers right on the edge without them slipping off. Then, finally I had to make an aluminum shim to fit between the 1/2 plate & the machined area of the bezel to get an nice even bend. Took some trial & error, but it worked out.
    Last edited by pro70z28; 04-20-2008 at 10:22 PM.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    S.W. Pennsylvania
    Posts
    2,250

    Default

    Pretty cleaver, here is a few pics of a radius bender I made for my brake, it was fairly easy and worked well. I think it is 7/8" radius. It snaps right onto the nosebar.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    To all who contribute to this board.
    My sincere thanks , Pete.

    Pureox OA
    Westinghouse 300 amp AC stick
    Miller Syncrowave 250
    Hexacon 250 watt solder iron

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Posts
    612

    Default

    That's a good idea. You could make a whole set of different sizes for different jobs.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Traer, IA
    Posts
    317

    Thumbs up Sweeeet

    Gonna need to see some pics of the motor in that baby.....

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