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Thread: Tube Notching

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Posts
    184

    Default Tube Notching

    Try to have this make sense...... for years when I've mitered
    tubing at a steep angle I've always ground the "pointy ends"
    (at right angle ) to the tubes axis. Never wanted to leave the
    real thin ends...no real wall thickness left.
    Now the reason for the post....was helping in someones shop,
    they have done lots of cage work and were working on the
    main cage for a BIG pulling tractor. I cut some tubes for them
    and was grinding the skinny pointed ends back when the mild
    arguement starts. Basically they felt it's a total waste of time
    and just weld them togather "as is". Didn't have any concerns
    of the extremely thin wall areas around a good portion of the
    tube....they thought I was nuts ( could be ...)
    So with all that in mind, how does everybody else deal with
    those real thin ends.
    Thanks
    Dave P.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Midland, Mi.
    Posts
    313

    Default

    I always grind off the thin edges after a notch is made. The "toe" and sides of a notch can get pretty thin at some angles.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Posts
    694

    Default

    The problem with thin ends can be a problem if the welder just barely ties the weld into them. However, the welder can weld the joint such that it just melts the thin area into the weld, and the toe (edge) of the weld is up into the thicker area of pipe.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Posts
    184

    Default

    Engloid,
    I do that sometimes if it's just a little bit to deal with.
    These were 2 in. tube with offset notches, would have had
    to melt off at least 1/2in. to get anywhere near the full
    wall thickness.
    Dave

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Lake of the Ozarks MO
    Posts
    3,555

    Default

    I grind 'em back cause I want my welds as good as they can be. Depending on them to "melt" back may or may not be consistent. I am interested in controlling anything variable so I can get repeatable results.
    I have been doing some sch 40 aluminum pipe projects lately and ran into that very thing. The welds were "ok" but the width of the bead would vary and the appearance suffered. The ones that I ground back with the beltsander/flapdisc had a much better looking weld. Also offset notch and VERY steep angle. 1" pipe on a 3 1/2" radius to 1 1/2" pipe on a 7 1/2" radius after running parallel.
    On steel YMMV.

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  6. #6
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Grande Prairie, Alberta Canada
    Posts
    729

    Default

    I grind back any "knife edges" until I have full wall thickness to weld to.

    I figure that if the sanctioning body dictates a .095" wall thickness (for example) then THAT is what I should be welding together, and nothing thinner.
    Later,
    Jason

    Professional Spark Generator by Trade.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Eugene, Oregon
    Posts
    2,428

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Black Wolf View Post
    I grind back any "knife edges" until I have full wall thickness to weld to.
    That is the only way to do it right AFAIAC. Any notched or mitered tubing that I weld has the edges deburred and prepped like Jason described.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Posts
    184

    Default

    Thanks Guys....about what I thought, I'll see them again in
    about a week or so and find out if they were just being lazy
    or a little stupid, maybe some of both.
    Dave P.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Killingworth,Ct.
    Posts
    372

    Default Fm

    Your not nuts,But im with Jason and Kevin,Think its called PRIDE,also Fusion,and Engloid, Keep up the GOOD work!!!!!!!!!!!,Hope I didnt miss anyone!

  10. #10

    Default

    Yep, knock them back until there's some meat to weld to.

    You're not alone!
    Scott Rhea
    It's not what you build...
    it's how you build it
    Izzy's Custom Cages

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