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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Baldwin, NY
    Posts
    275

    Default Update on the Car hauler

    Got a little more work to go, painted most of the first coat of paint, waiting on a 40" piece of pipe to finish my small and almost useless torque tube (it actually helped alot, but you wouldnt know it by looking at it) and I just finished the toolbox up front after the photos. Once it stops raining, and warms up, its time for final paint and wiring/lights.

    I checked the clearance again, and it seems to be ok, even going out my driveway, which is pretty bumpy, it has lots of room.





    Voigt Precision Welding, Inc.

    Miller Dynasty 200 DX, Miller Syncrowave 250, MillerMatic 252, Hypertherm Powermax 45, Auto Arc Trailpower 8000,272+187 lb Peter Wright anvil, 120 lb Fisher-norris, and more! Buffalo drill press, Grizzly Horiz. Bandsaw, Edwards shear, Barth Shear, bantam mechanical ironworker, Hopkins fly press, Doall Bandsaw, brown and sharpe surface grinder.

    2007 Silverado 2500HD (tow vehicle)
    2000 Camaro SS (Race car)

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Salem ,Ohio
    Posts
    3,861

    Cool

    That will work, looks real nice...Bob
    Bob Wright, Grandson of Tee Nee Boat Trailer Founder
    Metal Master Fab Salem, Oh 44460
    Birthplace of the Silver & Deming Drill
    1999 MM185 w/185 Spoolgun,1986 Thunderbolt AC/DC
    Spool Gun conversion. How To Do It. Below.
    http://www.millerwelds.com/resources...php?albumid=48

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Baldwin, NY
    Posts
    275

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Iron Head View Post
    One other thing I noticed, I hope you dont think I am just picking your project apart, just trying to pass on 50 some years of fabricating experience is all!

    I would definitely add some flange to web stiffeners, you hardly ever see a trailer manufacture add them, but they are worth the effort! The trick to anything that has movement is to eliminate as much movement as you can! Once it starts moving sometimes it will fail, maybe not today, or tomorrow but in time! If the members / shapes cannot move then there is less chance of failure!
    You cant see in the photo, because I took them before I started working on it that day, but I added 3 stiffeners, top middle bottom to the verticle beams, as far as a gusset sideways, that will be difficult because I enclosed the front area into a toolbox to hold a jack, straps, hammer, bars, tools, and need to nose the first car almost to the jack. If you can think of a way to place them as to not interfere with the car, and toolbox I would appreciate it. Sometimes I overlook some stuff because im in a rush
    Voigt Precision Welding, Inc.

    Miller Dynasty 200 DX, Miller Syncrowave 250, MillerMatic 252, Hypertherm Powermax 45, Auto Arc Trailpower 8000,272+187 lb Peter Wright anvil, 120 lb Fisher-norris, and more! Buffalo drill press, Grizzly Horiz. Bandsaw, Edwards shear, Barth Shear, bantam mechanical ironworker, Hopkins fly press, Doall Bandsaw, brown and sharpe surface grinder.

    2007 Silverado 2500HD (tow vehicle)
    2000 Camaro SS (Race car)

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    California
    Posts
    51

    Default

    Good job.

    As far as re-inforcing the vertical pieces goes, maybe you could add something that went from the top on one side, to the bottom on the other side.
    Read or submit reviews of Lincoln, Hobart and Miller Welders atThe Welder Shop.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Oahu, Hawaii
    Posts
    2,469

    Default

    BaddOOSS,
    Sounds like using 1 of Iron Heads pictures, you just incorporate your toolbox for that purpose, instead of crossbraces or plates. Just tie in your toolbox to the vert uprights...NICE JOB!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
    I'm not late...
    I'm just on Hawaiian Time

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Baldwin, NY
    Posts
    275

    Default

    Well, I have a 3" x 4" x 1/2" angle iron going across the front, attaching the jack, with a 2"x4" x 1/4" wall rectangle tubing attaching it at the midpoint behind the jack back to the main frame, and the toolbox is 1/8" plate welded to the angle and front of the beams. Then I have an angle Iron perimeter around the bottom of the toolbox area, and 3/4" expanded steel floor. I have a "stiffener" between the flanges of the beams to square off the opening for the toolbox lid. Is this sufficient? Feels rigid to me but, it's my first gooseneck so I am not totally sure. And for a trailer of this length is a little "twist" usual? If I rock the top of the gooseneck, it twists a little down the length, not much, just a little, The pipe solved most of it, but it still has some twist. Again, it's my first gooseneck, and my first trailer that is 39' long overall.

    thanks again,
    Christian

    Quote Originally Posted by Iron Head View Post
    Oh I see, wait no I didn’t




    “Sometimes I overlook some stuff because im in a rush”
    Don’t we all?




    I’m thinking the very same thing, maybe an angle iron frame for the toolbox to set in.

    Anything to tie the verticals together!
    Voigt Precision Welding, Inc.

    Miller Dynasty 200 DX, Miller Syncrowave 250, MillerMatic 252, Hypertherm Powermax 45, Auto Arc Trailpower 8000,272+187 lb Peter Wright anvil, 120 lb Fisher-norris, and more! Buffalo drill press, Grizzly Horiz. Bandsaw, Edwards shear, Barth Shear, bantam mechanical ironworker, Hopkins fly press, Doall Bandsaw, brown and sharpe surface grinder.

    2007 Silverado 2500HD (tow vehicle)
    2000 Camaro SS (Race car)

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