huh, interesting question...
I've always wondered something similar with drag cars: it seems like you're always worried about your own work passing, which is pretty decent and as far within the rules as possible (there are times that the chassis or the driver force you to make decisions that are not _exactly_ within the letter of the rules even though they try to follow the intent as close as possible) and then it always seems like there is a decent percentage of cars at the track with certified cages that have booger welds, the wrong size bars, bars in the wrong places... and don't seem to have any problems with tech.
Results 51 to 59 of 59
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05-20-2009, 01:36 PM #51
Mark
(aka: Silverback, WS6 TA, JYDog, 83 Crossfire TA, mpikas, mmp...)
Hobart Handler 135
Homebuilt TIG (DC only)
HTP 38 plasma
HF bandsaw
Rigid 4.5” angle grinder (+2 cheapie HF ones)
BFH
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05-20-2009, 02:06 PM #52
Senior Member
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06-09-2009, 09:51 PM #53
Member
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All good info here! Make sure your not one of those guys who welds down and around. I have seen so many people weld from the top down. Talk about no penetration! Bottom up and around and make sure you get in a comfortable position and are able to get full motion around the pipe. I always hated seeing people stop every 1/2 inch and re starting the weld. Looks like crap!
Get a tubing notcher. Its your best investment by far. Tight joints will save you from horrible gaps to fill.
I have always liked to tig my cages due to the fact you always get a nice hot peice in your ear! No matter how well you think your covered. I hate ear plugs.Brian C.
Turbobrian Fabrication LLc.
Miller D165
Miller 140
Miller Digital Elite
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04-09-2010, 09:33 AM #54
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I'm kind of a software geek. I rewrote the tubenotcher software to help alignment, length and accuracy. If you aren't doing a whole bunch of notches, or can't afford a nice mechanical tubenotcher, or just want to verify your work and alignment, check this out.
Its free, runs in any browser & operating system, and includes offsets, gauge thickness, tube pass thru info, .DXF output, tubular brace calculations. Prints out full scale on your local printer. Cut out the pattern, tape it to the tube. Cut metal and file to fit.
Tubenotcher Software
Here's a picture of an offset pass thru of two tubes of equal size.
One addendum: Because of the .DXF out option, this program requires a recent java version to the browser. If you have an Apple computer or a Linux OS, and the system needs to upgrade java, you may need to install manually. Instructions for those platforms, as well as online java testers located here.
Would appreciate any feedback on the program if you are so inclined.
thanks,
zipLast edited by zipzit; 04-09-2010 at 09:38 AM.
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04-23-2010, 06:32 AM #55
Roll cage tips
I have welded a bunch of stock car cages and chassis over the years. Here are 2 ideas to make your life easier.
-purchase a smaller nozzle to get into the tight spots
-build a roll over device for the chassis, it is allot easier than laying upside down in the cockpit trying to do overhead welding
Scott
http://www.welders360.com/
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05-21-2010, 12:17 AM #56
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06-06-2010, 06:28 PM #57
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My first major MIG project was my 8pt roll bar.. (still not done a year later but that's a different story) and I can tell you, nice tight joints..
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06-18-2010, 07:46 PM #58
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05-24-2011, 09:47 PM #59
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Try to get good fit ups in all your connections. Move around while welding so as not to get to much heat in one area. If your not sure of your welding skills then get someone who knows.


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