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  1. #31
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Milwaukee WI
    Posts
    57

    Default

    Definately some interesting information; I'm still practicing on winch bumpers, rock sliders and racks!
    Millermatic 210

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Colorado
    Posts
    673

    Lightbulb

    Quote Originally Posted by chris***@sbcglo View Post
    Why a digital caliper?
    Since I just learned this 20 minutes ago, I'll try:
    You can zero the digital after reading across the ID, then measure the OD.
    It's what makes the 'no math necessary' happen. The resulting measurement (.134 in my earlier question) will read directly on the digital.
    Last edited by Craig in Denver; 05-07-2008 at 01:06 PM.
    RETIRED desk jockey.

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    Miller Syncrowave 250.

  3. #33
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Posts
    612

    Default

    I have a story about cage wall thickness.

    When I built my chassis I took it to get certified as soon as I had it welded up. I knew I probably wouldn't get the car done before the 3 year cert ran out (got 1 year left), but I wanted to make sure I had it right before I got any further into the build. NHRA Tech sonic tested the cage and said the main hoop didn't test right? He said it was on the thin side. After he and a second tech had a discussion they slapped a sticker on it. (Sure wish I knew what was said in that little pow-wow that made them pass it). I said does that mean I can continue to build, He said yup, have at it. My son and I jumped in the truck to leave and we both looked at each other at the same time and I said "I don't feel too good about this". Jeff said he didn't either. I was about to sell it as a 10.99 chassis when I happened to talk to a friend of mine who happens to be an X ProMod guy and is involved with our local track. He put me in touch with an IHRA tech and said to have him double check it before I did anything. In the mean time I procured a sonic tester from a construction company who is a customer of mine. I tested ALL the tubes and wrote the test numbers on the tubes. (numbers are still there 2 yrs later). I was getting good readings on all the tubes. I then went to the IHRA tech and he actually got a couple thou. thicker reading than I did. So, I guess the moral of the story is those sonic testers aren't always dead on.
    Every time I see my friend I thank him for having me get a second opinion.

  4. #34

    Default

    keep in mind , you NEVER want to have any tube positioned so that if the joint fails it will impail you

  5. #35
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Blacksburg Va.
    Posts
    60

    Smile

    If your sactioning body goes buy S.F.I. specs.you can go to their web sight and get the specs.on the size, thickness and location of the bars for your class.

  6. #36
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Corona, CA
    Posts
    213

    Default

    I think I saw this mentioned, but it cant be stressed enough, because if you miss this part, then your cage is for nothing.

    GET THE RULE BOOK for the class you want to race in. Build to that. 1.5" .095 wall should fit pretty much anything, so Id say its a safe bet...me in particular, id use 1.5" .120 wall, because in the end, it only adds (at most) 10-15 lbs.

    I also saw the next point I have, on page 2, I believe. Weld out of position. Make yourself as uncomfortable as possible. Wear your leathers, go jogging, come back, put on mask, and cause sweat to run into your eye as you weave into position to weld your practice version of the rear downbar x brace. You will be burned (most likely) and you will definitely not be comfortable.

    I think one of the first projects I ever had to weld into a race car was a fuel cell cage on a 1st gen RX7. I was hugging the differential to steady the gun, and welding about a foot and a half above my mask, with the first spark a nice fat piece of slag met my back, and caused a wonderful dance of agony much to my boss' amusement.

    Aside from that, I think every one else said it best...fitment is key, and make sure you can get 360 degrees on the joint.

  7. #37
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    1

    Default

    Just one thing to add to the good advice given above... If you are MIG welding a cage or anything else for that matter that puts the arc higher than your upper body or over your head, wear earplugs. I can't even begin to describe how bad it is to get a hot ball of metal in the ear.

  8. #38
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Corona, CA
    Posts
    213

    Default

    But I love the smell of earwax and flesh burning together!

    +1, I forgot all about that pain and anguish.

  9. #39
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Arizona
    Posts
    812

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Speedfab View Post
    Just one thing to add to the good advice given above... If you are MIG welding a cage or anything else for that matter that puts the arc higher than your upper body or over your head, wear earplugs. I can't even begin to describe how bad it is to get a hot ball of metal in the ear.
    I know that feeling! But I hate wearing ear plugs because I rely so much on sound when putting in the root bead. It may look OK, but when I can hear it go in, I know it's OK!
    One other suggestion for working in the above described conditions: I own a leather hood which really helps getting into tight places, combined with an auto darkening lens it really helps!
    Miller Syncrowave 200
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  10. #40
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Corona, CA
    Posts
    213

    Default

    You can still hear it...its just much more faint, but if you're concentrated on the work, youll still be able to hear it. I like the leather hood thing...I may have to look around for something like that.

    As far as knowing that the root is in...its 1/8" tube, to 1/8" tube...or 1/8" plate.

    Any heat or speed problems show up very quickly...not as critical to hear it...for thicker stuff, definitely agree with you though.

    Thanks for the extra input nocheepgas

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