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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Seabrook, TX
    Posts
    43

    Default I need some tip on building a wrought iron fence.

    I am going to be building a fence in the next couple of months for my grandmother. Her neighbor has one that she wants to duplicate, so I can get all of my measurements from that one, except for the custom gate for the driveway. The fence run will be 200' and for the front it will be about 100' with the gate.

    Would it be best to build the fence in sections and take it out and set it, then weld it together? Or would you set the 4x4's and build it from there?

    What type of paint would you use? The color needs to be black.

    Any tools that would make the job a lot easier?

    I will be using a millermatic 200.

    Thanks in advance.
    They don't call me Lucky for nothin'.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Salem ,Ohio
    Posts
    3,913

    Cool

    I would set the posts and make the sections to fit between them. Make a jig from a sheet of plywood or glue board to help in welding it up. I like the tractor enamel from the local farm store and some primer. I would paint the bottoms before installing them also...Bob
    Bob Wright, Grandson of Tee Nee Boat Trailer Founder
    Metal Master Fab Salem, Oh 44460
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  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Oahu, Hawaii
    Posts
    2,469

    Default

    I painted raw metal before with zrc cold galvanized, then put on some expensive oil based black. Almost a year, and with our salt air, it still looks like new...
    I'm not late...
    I'm just on Hawaiian Time

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Indiana
    Posts
    541

    Default

    Bert,

    I have been wanting to find a spay type galvanize coating. How well does that stuff hold up? Is it durable by itself or does it need to be top coated?

    Thanks alot.
    Tim Beeker,
    T-N-J Industries
    (my side bussiness)

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  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    North of Phila. PA
    Posts
    404

    Default

    The big problem with prefab is making sure the post are all the same distance apart. A little triming is ok but 2-3" diferent could be noticable depending on the style of fence. Either set the posts as you assemble the fence or make a jig to set the posts. I have a 4'X8' metal frame that I use to set posts for wooden fences. It has no wind resistance and keeps the next post in position while I plumb and brace it if pouring concrete or back filling.

    The only other problem I see is if you have a lot of elevation change. You'll either have to be able to wrack the section or build in place. My metal frame is set up so I can wrack it if need be to account for a small hill, and wooden fences wrack no problem, iron fence, well depends on how its built.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Oahu, Hawaii
    Posts
    2,469

    Default zrc paint

    Sometimes I spray with the 14oz cans made by LPS that I get from the local hardware store (automotive section). I use LPS for spraying down electrical stuff, works good for me, so I figured I would try the cold galv. It has 95% zinc. If I have more time, I brush it on from a quart can from gaspro (also comes in gallon size). This stuff ain't cheap, but it works for me! The black topcoat is called "Anti Rust" made by Valspar "oil based enamel" That too is expensive, but I haven't found anything else that lasts as long...
    hope this helps...
    I'm not late...
    I'm just on Hawaiian Time

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    New Fairview, Texas
    Posts
    13

    Talking My Pool Safety Fence

    I just recently built a safety fence to enclose my pool. All mild steel tubing - 1/2" pickets, 1" rails and 2" posts. The fence sections are 10' long and were assembled on a wooden jig. The top and bottom rails have 1/2" holes drilled 1/2" from each end to fit over 1/2" rods that are welded to brackets welded to the posts. This way there is no welding required on-site and the sections can be removed for maintenance, access, etc. The posts were installed and cemented while being held in place by the previous fence sections, this way there was no problem with the fence panels fitting properly once the concrete set up.
    The jig was made from 2x4s and 1x4s - spacing for the proper fence height and picket gaps was built in.
    The fence has been "aging" over the winter and I originally was only going to seal it to show the natural finish, but my wife has now decided it should be painted black, so that is the next step in the project. The fence is 130' plus a 3' and a 5' gate.

    See the photos at http://www.flickr.com/photos/mig-ateur/

    Hope this gives you some good ideas.
    Joe

    It takes less time and money to do it right than it does to do it over!

    Research is what I'm doing when I don't know what I'm doing.

    Lincoln Power Mig 140C
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  8. #8
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Oahu, Hawaii
    Posts
    2,469

    Default

    Joe,
    MAN you build some nice stuff!!!!
    THANKS for sharing!!!!!!
    I'm not late...
    I'm just on Hawaiian Time

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Seabrook, TX
    Posts
    43

    Default

    What is the easiest way to build a jig, MIG-ateur?
    They don't call me Lucky for nothin'.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    southeast texas
    Posts
    47

    Default

    I found that the plywood jig was the easiest to construct, nothing permanent and if i needed the wood after the project for something i had it. I jigged up about 100' of the fence you saw for two court yards they all came out square and the same. without a table jig of some sort i think you would constantly be trying to see if your square and not racked in one direction or the other. The time it took to build the jig was worth it to me for all the time it saved laying out the panels.

    Sorry i just realized you directed the question i believe to Mig-ateur.
    Last edited by k.a.m.; 04-01-2008 at 06:28 AM. Reason: Added something

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