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  1. #11
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    S.W. Pennsylvania
    Posts
    2,250

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by FABRAT

    i am also considering a HF compact bender which is on sale for $49.99 on the net right now and adding the scroller attachment...i know that the scroller takes a little work to get opperable but the SO one is out of my range for now but i was wondering if anyone had anything to say about the HF compact bender (pos or neg) any coments would be appreciated.

    Thanks again and weld on ! Nick
    I have one of those benders and its not bad for what it is. The scroll bender is designed to use 3/16 material and wont acsept any thing thicker and thinner material is dificult to use in the scrroll attachment. There is a slot that you put youre metal in and any thing over 3/16 wont fit and any thing under 3/16 slips out unless you shim it up. But it does a nice enough job on the 3/16.
    To all who contribute to this board.
    My sincere thanks , Pete.

    Pureox OA
    Westinghouse 300 amp AC stick
    Miller Syncrowave 250
    Hexacon 250 watt solder iron

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    109

    Talking Welding Table

    Quote Originally Posted by WeldTeach
    I've found 32-33" to be a pretty common height for tables. We just built a couple 4'x8' tables for our school shop out of 1/4" top plate, 4" channel (1/4" wall) for the frame/crossbraces and 4" x 4" (10 gauge) for the legs, plus 1/4" plate for gussets on the legs. We also welded on HD braking casters so we can move them around the shop. Seem to work well and heavy enough for our use. May someday through another 1/4" plate on top...but not anytime soon...I'll see if I can dig out the digital camera and snap some pics soon..
    HelloIve been welding for a few years and I have built several tables all are about 32 inches high
    the best thing I have built onto them is a sliding tool holder on all 4 corners this is a tube inside a tube that makes the table frame
    I slide it out to hold my Lead or Vise Grips or C clamps
    when I need it when not needed I slide it in hidden from view and also doesnt interfere with top of table, these sliding tool holders also serve as a torch table when I slide them and locate a piece across both of them so slag will fall to floor.
    I also have a shelf at about 10 inches from floor for fixtures and a smaller one about 6 inches from top for grinder or other tools
    I will post a pic as soon as I can remember to take it with me to the shop
    also I have an air hose hanger next to my blue print table and on the other side I have Oxygen acetylene bottles with a hose and torch holder"
    the hose reel is on a stand and it also hold my 4 1/2 grinder on a piece of 4 " channel
    keeping out of the way hope I helped you some what
    Santiago Nunez

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Posts
    375

    Default Sliding tool holder

    Quote Originally Posted by SNUNEZ

    the best thing I have built onto them is a sliding tool holder on all 4 corners this is a tube inside a tube that makes the table frame
    I slide it out to hold my Lead or Vise Grips or C clamps
    when I need it when not needed I slide it in hidden from view.
    Santiago Nunez
    I'm glad you shared this..I really like the sliding tool holder idea. I'm planning on building a new table this spring and I'll pencil this into the sketch.
    Thats what's nice about these forums..you can get all kinds of good ideas from fellow members that already have something you're needing adeas on.
    Thanks again, Farris
    Gone But Never Forgotten!

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Eastern Washington
    Posts
    14

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by SNUNEZ
    HelloIve been welding for a few years and I have built several tables all are about 32 inches high
    the best thing I have built onto them is a sliding tool holder on all 4 corners this is a tube inside a tube that makes the table frame
    I slide it out to hold my Lead or Vise Grips or C clamps
    when I need it when not needed I slide it in hidden from view and also doesnt interfere with top of table, these sliding tool holders also serve as a torch table when I slide them and locate a piece across both of them so slag will fall to floor.
    I also have a shelf at about 10 inches from floor for fixtures and a smaller one about 6 inches from top for grinder or other tools
    I will post a pic as soon as I can remember to take it with me to the shop
    also I have an air hose hanger next to my blue print table and on the other side I have Oxygen acetylene bottles with a hose and torch holder"
    the hose reel is on a stand and it also hold my 4 1/2 grinder on a piece of 4 " channel
    keeping out of the way hope I helped you some what
    Santiago Nunez
    Sounds like cool ideas. I'm a "visual" guy though...I'd like to see some pics!!

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Posts
    4

    Default

    yeah i am a visual man also. i cant wait for the pic's of that table you built.

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    North Platte, NE
    Posts
    101

    Default

    Also another angle. I like a short table, 18" to 24" with a short stool. This way you can set with your feet on the floor and can reach taller projects on the table. A friend has his this way and I guess I just got use to it. He also used the heavy grating on his table instead of sheet stock.

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    NW Montana
    Posts
    7

    Default Pictures....Bout time hu!!

    Here are some pics of my table...not great ones but they are what i have...the shelf with the toolbox on it isnt in place now but it fits right up under the top and i am still working on a design to lock the foldup extensions in place. also the lifting plates are non existant as of this point...as you can tell by all the crap on the table it is in use instead up under construction. the other pics here are of a concrete form i am building for my company. i am building two of them. they are 2X2X6 and they are poured on their side an the block is tipped up after it cures. the two L shaped halves of the forms fit together with the two tabs on each end and then wedges are pounded in to lock the form together. we have two of these forms already and i am building two more. the blocks made in the forms are made from extra concrete brought back from jobs. the blocks stack and lock together. i will keep you posted on the progress of these with pics and explaination. once they are done they will be easier to understand.

    FABRAT
    Attached Images Attached Images
    HAVE...
    Hobart 135 (set up for gas)
    Victor torch
    DeWalt chop saw
    LUST....
    Syncrowave 200
    Spectrum 375
    Millermatic 210 or 251 (preferably the 251 )

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