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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Raymore Missouri
    Posts
    1,920

    Default Tungsten Grinder Jig

    I have been grinding my tungstens on a 6 in grinder by hand and I suck at it. No matter how steady I try to do it, it is still not even. Some have said to put it in a drill, which I have tried, but if the drill turns any speed at all, the point will be ground in a spiral fashion which I don't think will be good.

    I have a magnetic torch holder in the project gallery, made from a magnetic base indicator holder, which I used a piece of 3/8 round steel and formed it to make a torch holder. This gives infinite adjustments.

    I took the same base which will capture a 3/8 piece of round stock. I center drilled the 3/8 stock with the tungsten size I want to sharpen. In my case, I made a 1/16 in and 3/32 in x 3/4 in long dies which fit right into the tool holder adjustment jig.



    I also found a rubber plug which I drilled just close enough to hold the tungsten but still be able to slip for adjustment. This serves two purposes;
    As a depth stop and something to grip while turning the tungsten during sharpening.

    If you have your grinder on a metal table, this works great because of the magnetic base.

    With your grinder at its position, it is very easy to move the magnetic base to the exact angle and pitch you select for your tungsten tip angles.

    I hope the pictures will better explain what I am trying to say.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by monte55; 03-13-2008 at 08:57 PM.
    Nick
    Miller 252 Mig
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    and check out some of my ironwork and other stuff

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Southern CT
    Posts
    27

    Default Grinding Tungsten Electrodes By Hand

    Hi Monte, as I am learning tig welding from an expert tig welder, one job that he gives me (grasshopper) is to grind the electrodes. After burning my fingers, and going blurry eyed I am finally starting to have a decently ground electrode. I find that the 8" grinder gives me a larger tangential surface versus the 6" grinder. I also take the ground electrodes and put a final finish on them on a 1" belt sander that has a 120 grit belt on it. The electrodes look polished and I am starting to see the difference in the arc with a properly ground electrode versus a rough ground one.

    I did have a thought on a grinder, I was thinking of looking into one of those "Drill Doctors" that you can get at Lowes and machining an electrode holder as a function of diameter. The wheel within the Drill Doctor is a diamond abrasive so this should work when grinding tungsten.

    Any thoughts on this?

    Dennis

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Raymore Missouri
    Posts
    1,920

    Default Tungsten grinder jig...last picture

    This is the last of my pictures...
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Nick
    Miller 252 Mig
    Miller Cricket XL
    Millermatic 150 Mig
    Miller Syncrowave 200 Tig
    2-O/A outfits
    Jet Lathe and Mill
    Jet 7x12 horz/vert band saw
    DeWalt Multi Cutter metal saw
    Century 50 Amp Plasma Cutter
    20 ton electric/hydraulic vertical press
    Propane Forge
    60" X 60" router/plasma table

    www.youtube.com/watch?v=jTu7wicVCmQ
    Vist my site: www.nixstuff.com
    and check out some of my ironwork and other stuff

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    east central il
    Posts
    23

    Smile tungsten grinding

    i do mine with a 4" grinder and a emery flapper wheel work slick and good enough for what i do

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Oahu, Hawaii
    Posts
    2,469

    Default

    Monte,

    AWSOME PICS!!! Thanks!!!! Where can I get that clamp that goes up and down the 3/8 rod?
    I'm not late...
    I'm just on Hawaiian Time

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    148

    Default

    WOW! Two great ideas in one thread..........."A twofer"

    I love using the indicator holder to get the proper angle and relief. I'm going to whip one of these up myself............

    And the idea of modifying a Drill Doctor is superb! I'm going out into the shop and get mine out right now and see if it can be modified somehow......

    Stay Tuned!
    RoyB
    Dartmouth, MA

    http://www.rvbprecision.com

    Millermatic 185 MIG
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  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    flat , and lots of dirt
    Posts
    123

    Default

    Monte,

    I mentioned that I use a drill to chuck the tungsten, I run it at about 60-90 rpm, now vs a 6" wheel that is spinning at 8000+ rpm(about 12,500 ft/min) I do not get a helical finish. I finish mine with a Zirco flap wheel, then clean with berryman b-12 (tolulene, mek, acetone, all that good nervous system killing stuff).

    I like your rig though, and I will try that.

    I am also going to re-engineer my grinder so that it is not spinning towards me, I would hate to see a 3/32 piece of 7" superhard ( small diameter + high density = extremely high ballistic coefficient) tungsten propelled by a wheel moving @ 208 fps.

    Anyone have any wisdom on reversed grinding?

    What about the best wheels, that wont groove out after 5 or 6 grinds?
    SYNCROWAVE 200
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  8. #8
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Mpls, MN
    Posts
    1,790

    Default

    Why not just reverse the direction you grind the tungsten in? You know - aim it down...

    You really want heavy metal dust spraying upwards?
    Syncrowave 250DX
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    Smith O/A rig
    And more machinery than you can shake a 7018 rod at

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Queens NY
    Posts
    1,547

    Default

    I tried the drill doctor but the wheel is too small, it maked the point concave.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Oahu, Hawaii
    Posts
    2,469

    Default

    Laiky, did you use the square wheel that came with the kit? That way you have 4 sides/straight edges to sharpen before you have to change the wheel...
    I'm not late...
    I'm just on Hawaiian Time

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