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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Appleton WI
    Posts
    59

    Default welds to critique

    Ok.

    Here's a stand i built out of some scrap I found here and there. I putting some photos up for you to look at and lemme know what you think of the welds. I understand they're far from perfect. I'm looking to see how I can improve them. I used a MM 35s, running .035 wire with straight CO2. Whether they're good or they suck, it's still a far better stand than the piece of crap China freight sells to go with it. Any and all help will be appreciated as I am entirely self taught. I do weld for a living, but it's mostly just diameter restoration.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Appleton WI
    Posts
    59

    Default

    Thanks for your response.

    The 35 is old, that's for sure. My father in law bought it slightly used back in 75, and from what I gather, has rarely used it. So I've decided to put it to good use. I don't think it has any voltage control beyond the six plugs. It does however have a fine adjustment for wire feed. Would turning that down help as far as wetting the puddle? I was pushing to my left with the nozzle about cocked 10-15 degrees to the right using a forward-reverse motion. Should I axe that motion in favor of straight constant movement? Also I'm not quite sure what innershiels is I have a feeling I know but haven't really heard the name. I probably should have cleaned the area before I welded too.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    toronto,ontario
    Posts
    90

    Default just a suggestion

    try a wire wheel on a grinder and really clean the areas you weld ,it is like night and day as far as quality goes , as far as your heat i agree with ironhead , just from the pics it does look cold and if you cant crank the machine up anymore due to its age or at max amps , try and preheat the workpiece before you weld , it helps a bit , but it really is beneficial to have a top notch machine , after all if you havent got the right tools then you cant do the job right , good luck and let me know how you made out

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Fraser Valley, BC
    Posts
    593

    Default

    Other than tweaking your machince setup, it looks like you have the hand eye and rythem down.

    I've certainly seen far worse.
    Dynasty 200DX, first generation
    Makita 5" grinder
    Makita 14" abrasive saw
    IR SS5L compressor
    Whole bunch of hand/air tools.
    and a wish list a mile long

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Alberta Red Deer
    Posts
    373

    Default

    only thing i can say is from what iv seen on here no one cleans their welds after they are done. if i did this even once wow would i get a size 12 up u know wear.... other than that they are looking good and clean ur welds before and after welding it shows that u care about what u are doing, no matter what anyones says......
    trail blazer 302
    hypertherm plasma
    millermatic 251
    high feq. arc starter
    suit case (extreme 12vs)
    o/a torches
    way to many other tools to list

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Noth Dakota
    Posts
    505

    Default

    If you look at the corners, you can see the bead on the bottom is not attached, or wetted. like in 2217. rest looks ok but maybe more heat to me, a little spatter, use anti spatter and the rolly beads keep rolling. A little cleaning is good. Need a job?

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Southern Louisiana
    Posts
    421

    Default 2much

    The posts above have some great advice, they obviously have been down this road.

    What I would add for this machine, wire size and especially this gas is don't oscillate (circles) to much getting the arc out of the joint is going to hurt your penetration. The CO2 will help a little but the arc in the joint is doing the job.

    Also when you get to the corners, go past the end about 1/2 to 3/4 the weld size and then without stopping the weld turn the corner and push back in to where the back of the weld left the vertical part. This will square off the weld and give the leg size your after all the way around. You will grind them a couple of times but you'll get to where the finish wont need grinding.

    I had to come back and add this part just to finish the thought.
    Stopping the welds out at the corner leave a stress riser or concentrated stress out at the corner. Under the stress analysis the corners get the most load or stress applied. Think about it for awhile it makes sense. So we don't want to leave a riser where the stress is the worst. Instead make your tie ins toward the middle of the part, if you are doing multiple pass welds then don't stck your starts and stops on each other, if there is a crater crack in each one the effective throat goes way down. So put one in the middle, then just keep splitting the area that's left and go to its middle. This will keep the humps down as well and it will look great without grinding.

    To me grinding a weld is like grinding a good steak, it might still fit the purpose of feeding me but it looks like hamburger.

    Send me a private message, since you are in Appleton it would be easy to have you stop in to the office if you need some help.

    The welds are looking good.
    Last edited by diamondback; 06-22-2008 at 04:32 AM.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    San Diego
    Posts
    180

    Default Wire

    With all said, are you using a good flux core wire brand(Hobart or Lincoln)? It makes a difference.
    Millermatic 210
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