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  1. #11
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    N.E. SD
    Posts
    1,377

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Blackbird455 View Post
    Are their grinders worth having?
    Some models are real good, some aren't. Buyer beware.
    Jeff

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Raymore Missouri
    Posts
    1,920

    Default

    I put my cord in 3/4 rigid conduit. I now have limited use of the grinder but the cord is in great shape
    Nick
    Miller 252 Mig
    Miller Cricket XL
    Millermatic 150 Mig
    Miller Syncrowave 200 Tig
    2-O/A outfits
    Jet Lathe and Mill
    Jet 7x12 horz/vert band saw
    DeWalt Multi Cutter metal saw
    Century 50 Amp Plasma Cutter
    20 ton electric/hydraulic vertical press
    Propane Forge
    60" X 60" router/plasma table

    www.youtube.com/watch?v=jTu7wicVCmQ
    Vist my site: www.nixstuff.com
    and check out some of my ironwork and other stuff

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Oklahoma
    Posts
    695

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Fishy Jim View Post
    Is this really an issue for people?

    I know cords get severed when stock falls on them, or the tool takes a dive off something, or a hot drop lands on it. But I have never wrapped my cord around the wheel.

    The issue I have with my angle grinder cords is that they get snarled when using different units switching back and fourth.

    "Cord Snarling" is an unwritten law of physics.
    Griff

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Mpls, MN
    Posts
    1,790

    Default

    Dewalt cordless drills have always far out performed makita's in my experience. I wouldn't buy anything but a milwaukee corded drill. You want torque - they've got it, and I have the bruised shins to prove it.

    Runout in a drill chuck is going to be hit or miss. It's a drill chuck, not a collet.

    My camelback drill press has .01" runout with a Jacobs 18N, does that mean that it's unfit for your metalwork too? Point me at another 1/2hp drill that will bore a 1" hole with a 1/8" pilot hole and not care in the least.

    Your holes aren't perfectly round using twist drills anyways. Are you reaming them?

    As for the dewalt grinders, they've always been good for me. I have a 7" monster that's been around for about 12 years now. That's what I go to when I need heavy stock removal. I've had the other 4 little ones for about 2 years and they're all holding up just fine. A couple are a little noisier than they started, but they haven't failed.
    Syncrowave 250DX
    Invison 354MP
    XR Control and 30A

    Airco MED20 feeder
    Thermal Dynamics Cutmaster 81
    Smith O/A rig
    And more machinery than you can shake a 7018 rod at

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    flat , and lots of dirt
    Posts
    123

    Default

    Runout is as hit or miss as the manufacturer lets it be.

    Holes drilled with twist type drill bits are not perfectly round, true, but when drilled with a "good" drill (my Sioux,or Makita) , a .125 drill bit will make a hole
    that is deceptively ( and by that I mean measure it any way you want it) round and will measure out .1255- .126.

    This is not a discussion about drills tho, and I am not trying to discount Dewalt or any other brand. I know that a good Dewalt will twist re-bar in half, and have enough torque to throw my 230/6'1" a** around.

    What about getting some woven kevlar that is just large enough to slip over your cord? That stuff will take the enthusiasm out of any cutting or grinding tool. At least long enough for you to realize that you are no longer grinding what you intended.
    SYNCROWAVE 200
    Atlas 618 lathe (vintage 1960) reconditioned DC
    Sioux 3/8 Pneumatic Reversible Drill
    Makita Everything else
    2400 square feet of Sanford and Son lookin shop space
    "Once the spoon flys, putting the pin back in won't solve anything"
    USA 15T, 15V

    www.myspace.com/blackbird455

    http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m...5/DSC00356.jpg two cans, one welder

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Seattle, WA
    Posts
    22

    Default

    I'm amazed no one is offering kevlar armored cords for power tools. It seems like it would sell.

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    16919 Pole Rd. Brethren, MI 49619
    Posts
    4,376

    Default

    I am just plain careful about it.

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Raymore Missouri
    Posts
    1,920

    Default

    I've never cut a cord after 30 plus years. I think that's why they put the grinder wheel opposite the cord end. I could be wrong.
    Nick
    Miller 252 Mig
    Miller Cricket XL
    Millermatic 150 Mig
    Miller Syncrowave 200 Tig
    2-O/A outfits
    Jet Lathe and Mill
    Jet 7x12 horz/vert band saw
    DeWalt Multi Cutter metal saw
    Century 50 Amp Plasma Cutter
    20 ton electric/hydraulic vertical press
    Propane Forge
    60" X 60" router/plasma table

    www.youtube.com/watch?v=jTu7wicVCmQ
    Vist my site: www.nixstuff.com
    and check out some of my ironwork and other stuff

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Mpls, MN
    Posts
    1,790

    Default

    I actually dealt with a kevlar tubing manufacturer for an alternative material for tig lead covers. The stuff they sent me was flame proof, but it was so fuzzy it collected chips and grit like velcro. No-go.
    Syncrowave 250DX
    Invison 354MP
    XR Control and 30A

    Airco MED20 feeder
    Thermal Dynamics Cutmaster 81
    Smith O/A rig
    And more machinery than you can shake a 7018 rod at

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Sacramento CA
    Posts
    80

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by monte55 View Post
    I've never cut a cord after 30 plus years. I think that's why they put the grinder wheel opposite the cord end. I could be wrong.
    A very astute observation. What's wrong with those who haven't figured this out???

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