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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Raymore Missouri
    Posts
    1,920

    Default Aluminum joint problem

    I am trying to tig a t joint. Material is alum... .060 wall...1.5" x 3/8" extruded
    box. Tig is Syncro 200. My problem is I can't seem to get my heat at the joint corner/seam. The filler will stick to either side of the joint and after enough
    heat is applied, the filler can bridge the gap between the two making for a larger fillet than necessary. If I really apply heat directly at the joint,it may start to fall apart before I get the filler to flow. So far I suck at this.
    Any suggestions? Tricks?
    Nick
    Miller 252 Mig
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  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Most likely in Florida
    Posts
    111

    Default

    I'm far from an expert, but I was recently playing with aluminum T-joints as well. What ended up working for me, since the leg would melt the fastest, was to focus the heat a bit more on the base and occasionally flick it up a bit to the leg. When adding the filler, aim the rod more towards the leg and let it work itself into the joint. And if that fails, ignore my advice.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Posts
    132

    Default

    When you start an arc on aluminum, it wants to jump from one piece to the other, and not focus.

    The solution is to start very hot, melt the filler into the joint (even if it looks like it's only bridging the gap), and after that you'll be able to add filler in the normal way, as the arc won't jump any longer, because your two pieces are now one.

    Some people try to start the arc directly on the filler, placed in the joint.

    -James

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    New Westminster, B.C. Canada
    Posts
    8

    Default

    focus your arc on the bottom piece, remember-heat rises, this will also heat your vertical piece, allow your work to get up to temperature, add a little rod, adjust your torch angle, and you're off to the races...
    Miller Syncrowave 250

    6000+ hrs Al TIG

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    CT.
    Posts
    333

    Default

    Monte,
    Got any pics.
    T.J.
    Miller Dynasty 300DX
    HTP MIG 240
    HTP 380 Plasma

    Bridgeport Milling Machine
    South Bend Lathe
    Etc. Etc....
    tjsperformance.com

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Queens NY
    Posts
    1,547

    Default

    I find that starting slow and getting some heat in the part works for me, it also gives more time for cleaning. as you see a bright spot (melting) start to form on one or both, add some filler to the root and it will quickly melt in, once that first spot is in place it will flow from there. I have also found that learning fillets on slightly thicker material helps.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Lake of the Ozarks MO
    Posts
    3,562

    Default

    Some things are easier to show than type I would just tell you to turn up the HZ but you can't
    Anyway there have been a few good suggestions but the truth is if you are adding filler without heating the root you ain't helping anything. What I do is start more towards the middle than you want the bead to be and bring up the heat slowly. Sometimes I am angling the torch enuff to touch the cup on both parts of the joint at this stage. Sorta rock the cup/torch a bit as you bring up the heat and work BACKHAND slowly watching the shiny part on both sides come ever so closer together. when the 2 pools get to the edges they will either jump together or a keyhole will open...THEN feed filler and work forhand as usual. Any time you add filler before the root is fluid you are just bridging a gap add making the bead fat.
    HTH.
    Oh yea...make sure you got the tunsten out aways and grinding a point on it while using lanthanated would help also...prolly 3/32
    Last edited by FusionKing; 03-06-2008 at 05:48 AM.

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  8. #8
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Raymore Missouri
    Posts
    1,920

    Default

    Thanks for all the replies. They all make sense to me. I'll just keep trying untill it's correct.
    Info....red 3/32 tung..
    Shield gas 20cfh
    amps 100
    med start
    3/32 filler..4043 I think
    With stuff this light, I think preheat is not needed unless I could direct a small flame where the two meet.
    How close can a magnetic dial indicator base on a 5/8" 44" x 96" steel table
    be to the weld area and not affect the arc?

    Nick
    Nick
    Miller 252 Mig
    Miller Cricket XL
    Millermatic 150 Mig
    Miller Syncrowave 200 Tig
    2-O/A outfits
    Jet Lathe and Mill
    Jet 7x12 horz/vert band saw
    DeWalt Multi Cutter metal saw
    Century 50 Amp Plasma Cutter
    20 ton electric/hydraulic vertical press
    Propane Forge
    60" X 60" router/plasma table

    www.youtube.com/watch?v=jTu7wicVCmQ
    Vist my site: www.nixstuff.com
    and check out some of my ironwork and other stuff

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Lake of the Ozarks MO
    Posts
    3,562

    Default

    Also turn the balance up and I'd certainly loose the red.

    www.facebook.com/outbackaluminumwelding
    Miller Dynasty 700...OH YEA BABY!!
    MM 350P...PULSE SPRAYIN' MONSTER
    Miller Dynasty 200 DX "Blue Lightning"

    Miller Bobcat 225 NT (what I began my present Biz with!)
    Miller 30-A Spoolgun
    Miller WC-115-A
    Miller Spectrum 300
    Miller 225 Thunderbolt (my first machine bought new 1980)
    SPEEDGLAS 9100XX

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Southern Louisiana
    Posts
    421

    Default

    try a smaller filler, 1/16" to start.

    for your tungsten don't sharped it as much, since the electricity works from the cross section of the electrode this will move the arc closer to the joint. I know that intuition would say to make it sharper but that will move the arc bell up the electrode. reference AWS welding handbook eigth edition page 82 figure 3.5

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