A uni-body is totally different from a vehicle that uses a perimeter style frame. With a full frame under the car you can take various parts of the body, or the frame, and replace them as long as you jig everything up so it goes back together straigt. A uni-body on the other hand is its own frame, once it has been comromised it will never achieve its full strength again. The various components of vehichle with a frame are sort of like lego, while a uni-body is more like a plastic molding, if you will. There's a reason insurance companies right off newer cars that don't LOOK that bad. Mabye if it was an original numbers matching 69 COPO Camaro...
If it were a COPO, even a 9561, then he could sell the car a buy a brand new one!
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03-05-2008, 03:37 AM #11Senior Member
- Join Date
- Oct 2007
(my side bussiness)
Miller Synchrowave 350LX with tigrunner
Esab 450i with wire feeder
Thermal Dynamics cutmaster 51 plasma cutter
Miller aircrafter 330 - sold
Marathon 315mm coldsaw
vertical and horizontal band saws
Dewalt cut off saw
Sand blast cabinet
lots of hand grinders
03-05-2008, 11:38 AM #12Senior Member
- Join Date
- Jan 2008
You will also find that when you cut you will likely be looking at layers of metal in many areas. If you only present 2 large sections together you can only see and weld the metal on the surface in that area. There might be 3 or more layers of metal inside. "A" and "B" pillars, sills and rocker areas are examples of complex areas.
I just finished up removing a roll cage from a wrecked Porsche race car and presenting it to its replacement body. We cut the top off of the old car to ease removal of the existing cage and the "A" and "B" pillars were 5 or 6 layers of vairous thickness metal. I know of another car of the same model that a guy cut the top off in the same place and welded it back on. He even ground the welds down to hide them. Looks like new but I would not want to be in that car in a wreck.Weekend wannab racer with some welders.