...and i am looking for some advice.
first off some background on the project. The rear end of this car was damaged in a rear-end accident and am going to remove the damaged half and weld on a pristine one.
i am wondering if anyone has done this and if so what type of weld did you use?
i was thinking of butt welding both halves together then welding on some panels in key places for reinforcement.
i will try and take some pictures this weekend and post them for you guys. thanks in advance!
Results 1 to 10 of 12
03-04-2008, 07:09 PM #1
Going to be working on a Uni-Body...
03-04-2008, 08:36 PM #2Senior Member
- Join Date
- Oct 2007
If you have no experience in autobody repair (and since you are asking then you don't), please do not attempt this.
It is not as simple as cutting off the damaged and welding on the new.
You are talking about vehicle structure that is very important for peoples safety.
I am not meaning to sound rud but this is a very seriuos repair, best left to professionals, I admire your willingness to tackle such a project, however this one should be passed on.Tim Beeker,
(my side bussiness)
Miller Synchrowave 350LX with tigrunner
Esab 450i with wire feeder
Thermal Dynamics cutmaster 51 plasma cutter
Miller aircrafter 330 - sold
Marathon 315mm coldsaw
vertical and horizontal band saws
Dewalt cut off saw
Sand blast cabinet
lots of hand grinders
03-04-2008, 08:57 PM #3Welding in Crete
Syncrowave 350 LX
Millermatic 180 w Spoolgun
Miller Gold Seal 155
Miller Elite welding helmet
JD2 Tubing bender with Hydraulic conversion
Evolution Raptor15" SteelDry Cut Saw
Hypertherm Powermax 30
Some really cool hammers BIG and small
03-04-2008, 09:11 PM #4
this is a 4 door and the front end of the car is pristine past the C pillars. it was a low speed impact that damaged both rear quarter panels and trunk floor.
i also have a good friend who is helping me out who has done this type of thing before. i was just wanting to get some tips from you guys (like said above) who have done this before.
im just the type of person who asks a lot of questions...
03-04-2008, 10:09 PM #5
Unfortunately it doesnt matter if you can weld or not. Doing what your speaking of is more of an engineering project then anything. Stresses and loadings need to be thought of. Taking into account the cars structure was designed around a section having NO welding done to it, you are now changing that. Without knowing stress and loading vectors how can you make sure welds are in shear? Simply butt welding a panel together will have maybe only 60% of its original tensile strength. Now do you know what the metal actually is?? There are fatigue considerations depending on the base material, heat imput, etc. etc. You can see where this is going, this is not a quick and dirty project, and in some states not even legal unless you have it inspected by the DOT afterwards. Simply slapping a back half on a car, mig-pooping some filler on it, and slapping some random reinforcements is downright dangerous. Now if you want to go through the work to do it correctly I applaud that heavily.
-Aaron"Better Metalworking Through Research"
Miller Dynasty 300DX
Miller Dynasty 200DX
Miller Spectrum 375 extreme
Miller Millermatic Passport
Miller Spot Welder
Motor-Guard stud welder
Smith, Meco, Oxweld , Cronatron, Harris, Victor, National, Prest-o-weld, Prest-o-lite, Marquette, Century Aircraft, Craftsman, Goss, Uniweld, Purox, Linde, Eutectic, and Dillon welding torches from 1909 to Present. (58 total)
03-04-2008, 10:29 PM #6
A uni-body is totally different from a vehicle that uses a perimeter style frame. With a full frame under the car you can take various parts of the body, or the frame, and replace them as long as you jig everything up so it goes back together straigt. A uni-body on the other hand is its own frame, once it has been comromised it will never achieve its full strength again. The various components of vehichle with a frame are sort of like lego, while a uni-body is more like a plastic molding, if you will. There's a reason insurance companies right off newer cars that don't LOOK that bad. Mabye if it was an original numbers matching 69 COPO Camaro...Dynasty 200DX, first generationMakita 5" grinder
Makita 14" abrasive sawIR SS5L compressorWhole bunch of hand/air tools.and a wish list a mile long
03-04-2008, 10:36 PM #7
thanks for the replies so far!
03-04-2008, 11:11 PM #8
I have to back up each and every one of the replies above. I did heavy collision for 16 years and this is not a job left to chance. This is not just a matter of cutting off the old damaged parts and welding on the new. This car needs to be put on a frame machine and pulled back into reasonable specs before it's even cut apart. You need the car in a full body clamp positioning and then it needs to be put back together by trained professionals with a full laser alignment system. Eyeballs and tape measure in the garage just aint gonna cut it. You are looking at some major liabilities (if death or bodily injury isn't enough for your conscience, the lawyers will get you) should any thing should ever go wrong with this car in the future. DaveIf necessity is the Mother of Invention, I must be the Father of Desperation!
John Blewett III 10-22-73 to 8-16-07
Another racing great gone but not to be forgotten.http://video.google.com/videoplay?do...modified&hl=en
03-04-2008, 11:19 PM #9
03-05-2008, 12:07 AM #10