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  1. #41
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Posts
    63

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    Quote Originally Posted by UH60LCHIEF View Post
    Not to hijack, but Bodybagger could you elaborate on the setup you were referring to. I had heard that there was a way to do this and it only makes sense, but I'd love to have that capability as my home only has 115 everywhere
    In North America a split phase electricity distribution system is used for residential customers. It is a 3-wire, single-phase, mid-point neutral system.

    Essentially what this consists of is a transformer whose secondary is 240 volts with a center tap added and referenced to ground. These are the 3 wires brought into the house. Between each hot wire and neutral there is 120 volts 60 Hz. except one is 180 degrees out of phase (inverted) with the other. The 120 volt loads are supposed to be equally distributed between these two hot wires. The difference between the two hot wires is 240 volts.

    If you go through the house with your meter you can find two 120 volt outlets around the kitchen whose hots are on different phases you will have 240 volts at whatever amps the lowest breaker is rated at on the 120 circuits.

    The only hazzard in this is a dedicated 240 volt breaker would have both phases mechanically tied together so if it trips all power would be removed from the machine instead of it just looking like it is off. (ignore the large area EMI current loop and turn off your pacemaker )

    Now about bending 16 ga stainless

  2. #42
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    OCEANSIDE, CA
    Posts
    123

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by rick-l View Post
    In North America a split phase electricity distribution system is used for residential customers. It is a 3-wire, single-phase, mid-point neutral system.

    Essentially what this consists of is a transformer whose secondary is 240 volts with a center tap added and referenced to ground. These are the 3 wires brought into the house. Between each hot wire and neutral there is 120 volts 60 Hz. except one is 180 degrees out of phase (inverted) with the other. The 120 volt loads are supposed to be equally distributed between these two hot wires. The difference between the two hot wires is 240 volts.

    If you go through the house with your meter you can find two 120 volt outlets around the kitchen whose hots are on different phases you will have 240 volts at whatever amps the lowest breaker is rated at on the 120 circuits.

    The only hazzard in this is a dedicated 240 volt breaker would have both phases mechanically tied together so if it trips all power would be removed from the machine instead of it just looking like it is off. (ignore the large area EMI current loop and turn off your pacemaker )

    Now about bending 16 ga stainless
    Thanks for the info. It sounds like amperage might still be a problem with this setup... Bummer. I guess I'll probably have to stick to spooling out my 120' 60amp extension cord to the outlet I installed at the panel for now. That frickin cord weighs a ton and is one unwieldy S.O.B. but I guess it gets the job done.
    DYNASTY 200SD
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  3. #43
    danneva Guest

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bert View Post
    Got a friend getting me interested in doing stainless steel countertips for residential and commercial.
    My friend told me about this stainless steel countertop (because I’m using ceramic tile countertop), she said that it is very hygienic. At first, I don’t believe on her but when I searched it in the internet just to confirm if it’s true….I’ve found more interesting facts about this SS countertop. Besides being a beautiful addition to your kitchen, the stainless steel countertop is stain resistant and heat proof. And it will always maintain its style. Because of its strength, steel has always been considered ideal for food preparation. Stainless steel countertop maintenance is easy. All you need is detergent and water to clean it. I think I should switch to stainless steel countertop.
    Last edited by danneva; 08-23-2010 at 02:50 AM.

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