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  1. #31
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Oahu, Hawaii
    Posts
    2,469

    Default

    thanks arcdawg!
    One of my friends brought in a 4 metal SS shelf. I'm going to clean all the crud on it and practice!!
    bert
    I'm not late...
    I'm just on Hawaiian Time

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Posts
    1

    Default

    straight argon(industrial grade) is all you need

  3. #33
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Salem ,Ohio
    Posts
    3,908

    Cool

    Quote Originally Posted by arky View Post
    straight argon(industrial grade) is all you need
    Straight Argon works better for alum. Stainless needs a few other gasses mixed in the bottle to preform right on SS. It will work but the bead will be high and big and not flow out right something you wouldn't want on your countertop where everyone will see it. Just my .02... Bob
    Bob Wright, Grandson of Tee Nee Boat Trailer Founder
    Metal Master Fab Salem, Oh 44460
    Birthplace of the Silver & Deming Drill
    1999 MM185 w/185 Spoolgun,1986 Thunderbolt AC/DC
    Spool Gun conversion. How To Do It. Below.
    http://www.millerwelds.com/resources...php?albumid=48

  4. #34
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    San Diego
    Posts
    375

    Default Bert!

    Quote Originally Posted by Bert View Post
    Oh btw, I have a Dynasty 200DX setup (air-cooled torch), but I don't know if all the places would have the proper outlet for it, especially at the residential places...Any machine you used that is 110 that could do the job?
    bert
    Bert, did you ever work on the countertops?
    Your Dynasty is the ideal machine for this type of work. Or any small DC TIG unit, like the little Maxstars that Admweld suggested. Don't waste your time with a MIG unit if you have the 110V TIG option.

    Good fit-up is critical, because once you start blowing holes you're in a world of hurt. You can weld outside corners without filler, which will make for easier post weld clean up.

    Practice practice practice on some scrap- both welding and polishing. You will learn that the polishing is just as hard as the welding, and should be given respect. You'll see. I wouldn't try to weld and buff out any butt joints, as they will only give you problems. Design accordingly, and use a press brake to form things as much as possible.

    Good luck!

  5. #35
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Posts
    63

    Default

    reviving an old thread but do you think something like this

    http://www.ch601.org/tools/bendbrake/brakeplans.pdf

    would bend 16 ga 304 stainless across 6 feet?

    If you see an ad that says "constructed of 18-8 stainless steel type 304-16" what does the 18-8 refer to?

  6. #36
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Salem ,Ohio
    Posts
    3,908

    Cool

    Quote Originally Posted by rick-l View Post
    reviving an old thread but do you think something like this

    http://www.ch601.org/tools/bendbrake/brakeplans.pdf

    would bend 16 ga 304 stainless across 6 feet?

    If you see an ad that says "constructed of 18-8 stainless steel type 304-16" what does the 18-8 refer to?
    Plain and simple no. Good idea but SS is pretty tough and 6' of 16 ga doesn't help any...Bob
    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stainless_steel
    Bob Wright, Grandson of Tee Nee Boat Trailer Founder
    Metal Master Fab Salem, Oh 44460
    Birthplace of the Silver & Deming Drill
    1999 MM185 w/185 Spoolgun,1986 Thunderbolt AC/DC
    Spool Gun conversion. How To Do It. Below.
    http://www.millerwelds.com/resources...php?albumid=48

  7. #37
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Medford MA
    Posts
    541

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by rick-l View Post
    If you see an ad that says "constructed of 18-8 stainless steel type 304-16" what does the 18-8 refer to?
    18-8 are the rough percentages of chromium and nickel, respectively
    (or is it nickel and chromium? i never remember :-).
    the rest is primarily iron & carbon (to make steel).

    the 18/8 gives you the rough properties of the steel.
    type 304 tells you the details
    (if you look 'em up in an appropriate reference, of course)

    frank

  8. #38
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Posts
    63

    Default

    OK Changing the scope a little (down to 48") would this work? I would make the front edge a 1" box (2 bends) and a 5" back splash in back.

    http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=45876

    Would 20 ga. some how bonded to particle board make a good kitchen counter top?

    Is this a dumb idea and that is why you don't see it very often?

  9. #39
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Guam
    Posts
    177

    Default 400 amp air pack

    Thats what I was using intill I got my xmt 304, now I'm shooten for Dynasty200. I had a HF 251D-1 hooked to the air pack. Had to drop the engine rpm to get the amps low enough for tiggen the commercial ketchen jobs. Now I grab the 304. But em wanten a Dynasty especially for those light aluminum tig work. Point is theres alot of ways to do alot of things.

  10. #40
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    OCEANSIDE, CA
    Posts
    123

    Default

    Not to hijack, but Bodybagger could you elaborate on the setup you were referring to. I had heard that there was a way to do this and it only makes sense, but I'd love to have that capability as my home only has 115 everywhere but the box and currently (as it would have cost nearly $1600 to run it to the garage)I have installed a 230V recepticle at the box and run a 60amp commercial extension cord to the garage. It works, but reeling it out and in is a PITA so I'm open to ALL alternatives. Thanks.

    Mark

    P.S. I will start my own thread so as to not hijack the O.P.'s

    P.P.S. I saw at a site I was working at a machine in the back of a truck that extrudes the SS counter tops with the edges formed into them from a roll of 16 gauge so the only seams are at the corners. It was a pretty *****en setup.
    DYNASTY 200SD
    COOLMATE 1
    MM140AS
    SPOOLMATE 100
    SPECTRUM 625 X-TREME
    SPECTRUM 125C

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