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  1. #11
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    4

    Default

    You might want to check on the 2" x 3/8" reducer outlet fitting...

    On my 60 gallon tank the reducer is straight pipe/o-ring sealed not the typical tapered pipe plug readly available at plumbing supply houses.

    While you could attempt to "seat" a taper into the straight threads welded into the tank a drill/tap combination can make the reducer any thread size you wish and most likely would never leak!

  2. #12

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by fun4now View Post
    If we want these forums to stay clean an neat .
    We should moderate ourselves and try to post in the correct forum.
    This should maybe be in the Disussion Forum.

    this is one of the points i made before the change and why it was a bad idea. many people ( myself included) don't care what section they are in or are not shore which is the right one.
    next we have members telling others they did it wrong or control your self, before long the screw you , bite me starts and we loose members. so let it go, if he wants it here he will post it here. its his question, let him categorize it.
    maybe he has a nascar paint booth. painting car's is not motor sports??? i think it is. let others make there own choices.
    I didn't tell anyone to do anything other than moderate ourselves.
    your comment on this was not needed.
    it seems like you like to get in the middle of things alot.
    "play nice " " let others make choices "
    who's playing wrong? Who had to say the above?

    It was my choice not yours
    By the way I was for the change in the format.
    I keep my shop very clean and neat.

    Rich

    Love the power of Blue
    Millermatic 200
    Sync 200
    Lots of Tools!

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Lake of the Ozarks MO
    Posts
    3,498

    Default

    I sorta have a different opinion...If the moderator would mqderate this and leave a post explaining why after a few thousand times it would pay off. It happens on the other welding forums everyday
    Another thing that causes it to happen is unless they changed it when you use the old address to the old forum you arrive here and it looks the same. If they changed that now then never mind.
    So I guess you could say it is about 80% Millers fault.... IMO So come on guys lets get to moderating before this gets out of hand and we end up with 2 discussion forums!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! (that would just be plain dumb)


    As for the PCV...as some of you know last year I had a real job for a year or so.
    Well in that shop they had pvc air lines. I have got to see first hand how they blow to ****!!! Just the sound scares the living crap out of you. And pieces will fly my friend.
    I read a post somewhere about a severe eye injury from this and I believe it was from an ambulance driver it seems like if my memory serves me correctly.
    Miller Dynasty 700...OH YEA BABY!!
    MM 350P...PULSE SPRAYIN' MONSTER
    Miller Dynasty 200 DX "Blue Lightning"

    Miller Bobcat 225 NT
    Miller 30-A Spoolgun
    Miller WC-115-A
    Miller Spectrum 300
    Miller Spoolmate 200
    Miller 225 Thunderbolt
    SPEEDGLAS 9100XX

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    near rochester NY
    Posts
    9,881

    Default

    I read a post somewhere about a severe eye injury from this and I believe it was from an ambulance driver it seems like if my memory serves me correctly.

    i saw that one too.
    my dad has PVC in his shop, been there for years no problem. i cant afford to do mine in copper yet so for not i just have standard air lines running from one shop to the other. from there its hooked to a reel with another 50" i think of roll out to cover the hold shop. some day i hope to get it hard lined, copper or the aluminum stuff they sell ready made for instillation would be my choice.

    also be shore to leave a flexible link from the compressor to the start of the hard lines for vibration. i'll see if i can find a link to one if ya don't know where to get one.
    thanks for the help
    ......or..........
    hope i helped

    feel free to shoot me an e-mail direct i have time to chat. james@newyorkmetalart.com
    summer is here, plant a tree. if you don't have space or time to plant one sponsor some one else to plant one for you. a tree is an investment in our planet, help it out.
    JAMES

  5. #15

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by DDCGuy View Post
    You might want to check on the 2" x 3/8" reducer outlet fitting...

    On my 60 gallon tank the reducer is straight pipe/o-ring sealed not the typical tapered pipe plug readly available at plumbing supply houses.

    While you could attempt to "seat" a taper into the straight threads welded into the tank a drill/tap combination can make the reducer any thread size you wish and most likely would never leak!
    Thanks for the heads up, I will have to look into it.

    How would it be to run the 3/4" line but still have that 2x3/8" reducer off the tank?

    Enough talk on the PVC, I already know I am going to run copper.

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Posts
    216

    Default

    I`m looking into changing my shop over to either 1/2 or more likely 3/4 inch plastic air brake line like large trucks are equipped with. I`ll post back as to what size hole it will leave in my wallet . but it should last for ever as long as it isn`t exposrd to high heat and it should be easily modified .


    Mike
    Regency 200 w/30A
    Dynasty 200 dx
    Esab 875 plasma
    MM350-P w/30A

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Plainview, TX
    Posts
    334

    Default

    We have galvanized steel pipe in our shop. it is a mix of 3/4", 1", and 1-1/4" pipe. The compressor it self has a single hot-dog tank constructed from 8" Sch. 40 Black Steel Column Pipe. Shop Air Storage is a 40 Gallon LP tank from an Oliver Tractor. The line is about 25 feet in total length. The compressor is hooked up via a 3/8" Hydraulic Hose line with 1/4" Milton Air Fittings. This compressor has been moved around and taken out of the shop for use on occasion. We have plugged tees at the ends of the horizontal runs for future tie ins or expansion. If we had not used galvanized pipe, we would have used black pipe instead. Maximum pressure on the system is 125 PSI. The pipe and fittings are all rated minimum of 600 PSI. The storage tank is equipped with at least two brass ball valves for the existing line and one more for future runs in the shop. We used Rector-seal No. 5 Soft Set Pipe Dope initially but now use IPS Teflon pipe paste/dope same as we use on our water well work.

    Other shops I have worked in all used Sch. 40 Galvanized or Black Steel pipe. Main distribution was at least 2" with 1-1/2" Drops with 1", 3/4" or even 1/2" spurs running to points of use.

    PVC Pipe, even Schedule 80 threadable PVC is NOT RATED or DESIGNED to be used with air. New of one manufacturer here in Plainview that used Sch. 80 pipe and fittings for air in the plant. After 6 month of constants repairs and flying shrapnel from the PVC line, it was all replaced with steel line. The cost of the PVC was half that of the Steel, but the repairs alone cost more that the original install and the steel replacement combined.

    D.O.T. Plastic line is used for Air Service on Trucks and D.O.T. regulated equipment. Its not really meant for general use in a shop. It also has a tendency to burst and break and scare one senseless. Ruptures with D.O.T. line generally happen on the coldest or hottest day when you need reliable air the most. Also, it tend to be a tad pricey. The plastic or brass fittings, ferrules, inserts and connectors are not cheap either.

    Have you priced copper lately? Black or Galvanized steel will cost you less. I can cut and thread steel pipe faster than messing with the solder and preparation needed to make copper seal up good. But that is me.

    Since your compressor is already equipped with a 2" x 3/8" bushing, it would be really simple to just change it out to what ever 2" x X" you may require. I personally would run a minimum of 1" or even 1-1/4" line. Just makes for easy flow. Plus, the line itself will give you some storage. Drops in at least 3/4". Don't for get your moisture traps and line drains on your drops and at the end of the lines. Also, for extended lateral runs, don't for get to put some slope in the line so your moisture will run down the pipe to moisture trap and drain points.

    Charlie
    '77 Miller Bluestar 2E on current service truck
    '99 Miller Bobcat 225NT for New Service Truck
    '85 Millermatic 200 in Shop

    '72 Marquete 295 AC cracker box in Shop
    '07 Hypertherm Powermax 1000 G3 Plasma Cutter in Shop
    Miller Elite and Digital Elite Hoods

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Posts
    216

    Default

    I found an old invoice from a box of 1/2 inch plastic and it comes out at around 50 cents per foot. As far as bursting in extreme weather, in the 35 years running air brakes the only failure I have seen is from a close encounter with a cutting torch or a situation where a hole is rubbed through.

    Only a hand full of fittings would be needed as it can be had in rolls of 50, 100, and 200ft. Haven`t priced 3/4" yet , but I think it is a good option for me.

    Mike
    Regency 200 w/30A
    Dynasty 200 dx
    Esab 875 plasma
    MM350-P w/30A

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Posts
    411

    Default

    we run 3/4" black iron pipe threw out our shop and it works great for air tools
    but have a bigger 3" main black iron pipe straight from the compressor,that feeds the Bead blasters and reduces down to 3/4" close to the blaster hook ups.

    I would say in your case 3/4" black iron pipe would work well

    good luck


    ............. Richard

  10. #20

    Default

    Being a pipefitter and working in the instrumentation sector of the field right now, I will give you the standard for running air lines, and this is a standard that is adopted pretty much industry-wide. Run your your mains and drops in galvanized threaded pipe. Also, do not come off the bottom of the main with your drops. Instead, face the tee up, and make double 90 breaks down wherever you need them. This will prevent most of any moisture in the main from getting to your tools. Put a low point drain on every drop to allow you to do periodic blowdowns. And use teflon tape(PTFE) on the threads. Using liquid pipe dope will have the potential of the dope getting into your tools. It may cost a few extra dollars, but it will be right. If youreally want the Cadillac installation, do it in stainless tubing and compression fittings.

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