You might want to check on the 2" x 3/8" reducer outlet fitting...
On my 60 gallon tank the reducer is straight pipe/o-ring sealed not the typical tapered pipe plug readly available at plumbing supply houses.
While you could attempt to "seat" a taper into the straight threads welded into the tank a drill/tap combination can make the reducer any thread size you wish and most likely would never leak!
Results 11 to 20 of 48
Thread: Air compressor piping
02-28-2008, 09:33 AM #11Junior Member
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- Feb 2008
02-28-2008, 11:40 AM #12
your comment on this was not needed.
it seems like you like to get in the middle of things alot.
"play nice " " let others make choices "
who's playing wrong? Who had to say the above?
It was my choice not yours
By the way I was for the change in the format.
I keep my shop very clean and neat.
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Lots of Tools!
02-28-2008, 01:00 PM #13
I sorta have a different opinion...If the moderator would mqderate this and leave a post explaining why after a few thousand times it would pay off. It happens on the other welding forums everyday
Another thing that causes it to happen is unless they changed it when you use the old address to the old forum you arrive here and it looks the same. If they changed that now then never mind.
So I guess you could say it is about 80% Millers fault.... IMO So come on guys lets get to moderating before this gets out of hand and we end up with 2 discussion forums!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! (that would just be plain dumb)
As for the PCV...as some of you know last year I had a real job for a year or so.
Well in that shop they had pvc air lines. I have got to see first hand how they blow to ****!!! Just the sound scares the living crap out of you. And pieces will fly my friend.
I read a post somewhere about a severe eye injury from this and I believe it was from an ambulance driver it seems like if my memory serves me correctly.Miller Dynasty 700...OH YEA BABY!!
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02-28-2008, 01:57 PM #14
I read a post somewhere about a severe eye injury from this and I believe it was from an ambulance driver it seems like if my memory serves me correctly.
i saw that one too.
my dad has PVC in his shop, been there for years no problem. i cant afford to do mine in copper yet so for not i just have standard air lines running from one shop to the other. from there its hooked to a reel with another 50" i think of roll out to cover the hold shop. some day i hope to get it hard lined, copper or the aluminum stuff they sell ready made for instillation would be my choice.
also be shore to leave a flexible link from the compressor to the start of the hard lines for vibration. i'll see if i can find a link to one if ya don't know where to get one.thanks for the help
hope i helped
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02-28-2008, 03:42 PM #15Member
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- Dec 2005
02-28-2008, 09:22 PM #16
I`m looking into changing my shop over to either 1/2 or more likely 3/4 inch plastic air brake line like large trucks are equipped with. I`ll post back as to what size hole it will leave in my wallet . but it should last for ever as long as it isn`t exposrd to high heat and it should be easily modified .
MikeRegency 200 w/30A
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02-29-2008, 01:17 AM #17Senior Member
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- Aug 2006
- Plainview, TX
We have galvanized steel pipe in our shop. it is a mix of 3/4", 1", and 1-1/4" pipe. The compressor it self has a single hot-dog tank constructed from 8" Sch. 40 Black Steel Column Pipe. Shop Air Storage is a 40 Gallon LP tank from an Oliver Tractor. The line is about 25 feet in total length. The compressor is hooked up via a 3/8" Hydraulic Hose line with 1/4" Milton Air Fittings. This compressor has been moved around and taken out of the shop for use on occasion. We have plugged tees at the ends of the horizontal runs for future tie ins or expansion. If we had not used galvanized pipe, we would have used black pipe instead. Maximum pressure on the system is 125 PSI. The pipe and fittings are all rated minimum of 600 PSI. The storage tank is equipped with at least two brass ball valves for the existing line and one more for future runs in the shop. We used Rector-seal No. 5 Soft Set Pipe Dope initially but now use IPS Teflon pipe paste/dope same as we use on our water well work.
Other shops I have worked in all used Sch. 40 Galvanized or Black Steel pipe. Main distribution was at least 2" with 1-1/2" Drops with 1", 3/4" or even 1/2" spurs running to points of use.
PVC Pipe, even Schedule 80 threadable PVC is NOT RATED or DESIGNED to be used with air. New of one manufacturer here in Plainview that used Sch. 80 pipe and fittings for air in the plant. After 6 month of constants repairs and flying shrapnel from the PVC line, it was all replaced with steel line. The cost of the PVC was half that of the Steel, but the repairs alone cost more that the original install and the steel replacement combined.
D.O.T. Plastic line is used for Air Service on Trucks and D.O.T. regulated equipment. Its not really meant for general use in a shop. It also has a tendency to burst and break and scare one senseless. Ruptures with D.O.T. line generally happen on the coldest or hottest day when you need reliable air the most. Also, it tend to be a tad pricey. The plastic or brass fittings, ferrules, inserts and connectors are not cheap either.
Have you priced copper lately? Black or Galvanized steel will cost you less. I can cut and thread steel pipe faster than messing with the solder and preparation needed to make copper seal up good. But that is me.
Since your compressor is already equipped with a 2" x 3/8" bushing, it would be really simple to just change it out to what ever 2" x X" you may require. I personally would run a minimum of 1" or even 1-1/4" line. Just makes for easy flow. Plus, the line itself will give you some storage. Drops in at least 3/4". Don't for get your moisture traps and line drains on your drops and at the end of the lines. Also, for extended lateral runs, don't for get to put some slope in the line so your moisture will run down the pipe to moisture trap and drain points.
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02-29-2008, 06:55 PM #18
I found an old invoice from a box of 1/2 inch plastic and it comes out at around 50 cents per foot. As far as bursting in extreme weather, in the 35 years running air brakes the only failure I have seen is from a close encounter with a cutting torch or a situation where a hole is rubbed through.
Only a hand full of fittings would be needed as it can be had in rolls of 50, 100, and 200ft. Haven`t priced 3/4" yet , but I think it is a good option for me.
MikeRegency 200 w/30A
Dynasty 200 dx
Esab 875 plasma
02-29-2008, 08:43 PM #19Senior Member
- Join Date
- Feb 2006
we run 3/4" black iron pipe threw out our shop and it works great for air tools
but have a bigger 3" main black iron pipe straight from the compressor,that feeds the Bead blasters and reduces down to 3/4" close to the blaster hook ups.
I would say in your case 3/4" black iron pipe would work well
02-29-2008, 09:10 PM #20
Being a pipefitter and working in the instrumentation sector of the field right now, I will give you the standard for running air lines, and this is a standard that is adopted pretty much industry-wide. Run your your mains and drops in galvanized threaded pipe. Also, do not come off the bottom of the main with your drops. Instead, face the tee up, and make double 90 breaks down wherever you need them. This will prevent most of any moisture in the main from getting to your tools. Put a low point drain on every drop to allow you to do periodic blowdowns. And use teflon tape(PTFE) on the threads. Using liquid pipe dope will have the potential of the dope getting into your tools. It may cost a few extra dollars, but it will be right. If youreally want the Cadillac installation, do it in stainless tubing and compression fittings.