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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Dallas, TX area
    Posts
    267

    Default How would you fix this leak?

    The headquarters of a big name retailer called us Friday. A 14" condenser water line had sprung a leak and needed to be welded. No problem, huh? There was one tiny little challenge to it. The pumps pushing water through this line at right about 45 PSI couldn't be shut off and the repair had to be made while the pipe was pressurized. We finally got it stopped. What a pain. The operators said they couldn't shut the pumps off, even for five minutes until Monday. And, they wanted the leak fixed last night. Fortunately they said those magic words "Whatever it costs". Yep, I'm a happy guy today. I think I'll go pick up that new Spectrum 375-X with my whatever-it-costs money.
    Triggerman

    Ammonia refrigeration tech
    Trailblazer 302 (yes, it's new)
    Millermatic 180 w/Autoset
    CST-250
    HF-15 High frequency
    XR15 w/Push-Pull Gun
    Victor O/A, DeWalt, North mask


    "A professional knows what to do. A craftsman knows why."

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Posts
    356

    Default

    piece of pipe with same id as od of broken pipe, a piece of tar paper where the pinhole was, clamp the ***** on real tight, and weld the outside edges
    mm210
    maxstar 150

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Vero Beach, fl.
    Posts
    761

    Default How would I fix this?

    I used to work in the citrus and vegetable processing industry for many years and did quite a bit of work in juice manufacturing plants. When ever we had a leak to contend with what we would do is get a piece of pipe that was the same i.d. as the o.d. of the leaky pipe, we would take it and cut it into two pieces and place a piece of gasket material under it and fasten it temporarily with hose clamps. That usually worked until they could shut down and proper repair could be made. The juice plants are all stainless tubing that had to be purged with argon for a sanitary welds. The pasterizing lines were always fun as they contained seven tubes inside the larger tube, the small lines carried the juice and the larger tube chilled it with glycol. The glycol lines were pressurized sometimes up to 2500 p.s.i. Dave
    If necessity is the Mother of Invention, I must be the Father of Desperation!

    John Blewett III 10-22-73 to 8-16-07
    Another racing great gone but not to be forgotten.http://video.google.com/videoplay?do...modified&hl=en

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Oahu, Hawaii
    Posts
    2,469

    Default

    Dave,
    How would you tighten down the "new" collars you made over the gasket material? I've seen plumbers use big hose clamps over gasket material/rubber, but if you use pieces of pipe, how could you cinch it down tight?
    bert
    I'm not late...
    I'm just on Hawaiian Time

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Vero Beach, fl.
    Posts
    761

    Default Bert

    By placing a thin piece of gasket material over the leak, you then take a piece of tubing and cut in half or thirds whatever it takes to cover the area. Place the hose clamps around the patch panel and the pressure of the patch panel in turn puts pressure on the gasket material which then in theory stops the leak until proper repair can be made. All the piping in the juice plants are thin walled stainless and the patch will easily conform to the thickness of the gasket material . This method may not work as well with heavy gauge piping, but it wasn't stated what type of metal or the wall thickness was on the leaking pipe. Most of our repairs were made on 14 and 11 gauge stainless tubing and in most cases the i.d. was 8" or less. We have also used a stainless patch that is like a large hose clamp with rubber lining already on it but we didn't have much luck with those as they seemed to slow the leak instead of stopping it. Let me know if you are still unsure about what I'm talking about as I can say it better than I can type it. Dave
    If necessity is the Mother of Invention, I must be the Father of Desperation!

    John Blewett III 10-22-73 to 8-16-07
    Another racing great gone but not to be forgotten.http://video.google.com/videoplay?do...modified&hl=en

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Oahu, Hawaii
    Posts
    2,469

    Default

    Thanks Dave,
    now THAT makes a lot more sense
    I'm not late...
    I'm just on Hawaiian Time

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    near rochester NY
    Posts
    9,881

    Default

    yep i would go with the iner di. same as the outer and cut a pice to weld over the old pipe. whatever it takes for a bill sounds just too tempting to pass up i bet you have to exersize some real restraint when making out that bill. congrats on the spec375 should make the next pach go faster, i realy love my lil plasma cutter. just no substitute for a quick cut, just wish the consumables were a bit less $$$. i have the 125C so no real controle over air dryness or cleanlyness. add to that the consumables are more $$ for the 125 than they are for the 375 and i realy want to upgrade, the extra cut thickness would be nice also.
    you chould be realy happy with the 375, my 125 has realy impressed me with its cut for such a small unit. at 5+ years old it still cuts like new.
    thanks for the help
    ......or..........
    hope i helped

    feel free to shoot me an e-mail direct i have time to chat. james@newyorkmetalart.com
    summer is here, plant a tree. if you don't have space or time to plant one sponsor some one else to plant one for you. a tree is an investment in our planet, help it out.
    JAMES

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Ocean City, Maryland
    Posts
    951

    Default

    How did you finally get it stopped and repaired?
    Scott
    HMW [Heavy Metal welding]

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Dallas, TX area
    Posts
    267

    Default How we did it....

    Normally, we would make a hot tap over the pinhole leak and just leave the valve shut off. The customer didn't want a hot tap, they wanted a plate to get out away from the leak into the meaty part of the pipe. We had a piece of 3/8" plate rolled to match the curvature of the 14" Schedule 40 pipe we were repairing. Everything went fine welding it up water pouring through the welds. We were running 1/8" 6010 5P+ at 250 amps to keep the puddle going under the stream of water. Anyway, here are a coupla pics of the repair.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Triggerman

    Ammonia refrigeration tech
    Trailblazer 302 (yes, it's new)
    Millermatic 180 w/Autoset
    CST-250
    HF-15 High frequency
    XR15 w/Push-Pull Gun
    Victor O/A, DeWalt, North mask


    "A professional knows what to do. A craftsman knows why."

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Northern CA
    Posts
    90

    Default

    wow! That must have been fun

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