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  1. #11
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    539

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    Quote Originally Posted by phila.renewal View Post
    Believe it or not, what it might be telling you is you have the wrong tungsten diameter. If a doped tungsten forms a ball when you don't want it to, your tungsten is too small for the current you are running.

    If you wanted it balled and the arc is dancing around but more heat for a second focuses the arc, your tungsten is too big. What you are doing is heating up the tungsten which results in better electron emission -- it should be hot enough at the current you are running to not dance around without gunning it.

    Know what I mean?
    This is new to me, I will do some testing and try different diameters and settings, thank you.

    Tom

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    106

    Default

    If you don't already have, you can get an assortment of tungsten (lanthanated and ceriated), collets, collet bodies and cups from HTP America in a handy kit box for reasonable price ($55 + shipping).

    I ordered their gas lens kit, collets and a few lanthanted tungsten of each size -- they are very helpful and ship same day.

    1-800-USA-Weld

    No affiliation -- just hope this is helpful.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    CT.
    Posts
    333

    Default

    All I use right now are Zirconiated(Sp) tungstens. They are nice with my Dyn 300 machine and a gas lens.
    T.J.
    Miller Dynasty 300DX
    HTP MIG 240
    HTP 380 Plasma

    Bridgeport Milling Machine
    South Bend Lathe
    Etc. Etc....
    tjsperformance.com

  4. #14

    Default

    Wow, lots of good tips. Time to go out to the shop and try them out.

    Thanks everyone!

    JD

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Albuquerque, NM
    Posts
    1,788

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by brightspark View Post
    hey Sundown,

    your daughter will do well there its a very good college and the area's real nice. If you ever make it over to visit her you'll have to drop by my shop and burn some rods
    Funny enough I was working in Runcorn last year for 3 months so I know that area pretty well too.

    Really is a small world!!!
    I will most likely be over there summer after this one, I want to do some touring in Germany anyway. If you are still hanging aroung here then I will get your address and visit. I mostly am on the Hobart "weld Talk" forum at http://www.hobartwelders.com but visit here and Miller "Motorsport" often.
    Last edited by Sundown; 05-11-2007 at 12:19 PM.
    Regards, George

    Hobart Handler 210 w/DP3035 - Great 240V small Mig
    Hobart Handler 140 - Great 120V Mig
    Hobart Handler EZ125 - IMO the best 120V Flux Core only machine

    Miller Dynasty 200DX with cooler of my design, works for me
    Miller Spectrum 375 - Nice Cutter

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Eugene, Oregon
    Posts
    2,428

    Default

    Something no one has mentioned yet is post-flow. If you have inadequate post-flow and/or you pull your torch away from the weldment too soon you will have tungsten frosting. It is something that is more prevalent with inverters in general but is not limited to them and will cause the exact problem that the initial poster experienced.

    One good practice to get into is to lightly scratch the tungsten to your work before you strike an arc. Your start should be immediate when you do that.

    If you are using pure or zirconiated with a Dynasty you are not realizing the full potential of your machine. Inverters are designed to run with a pointed tungsten and both pure and zirc will want to ball almost immediately. If you are going to use them, you might as well set your machine to 60 hz and run it like a regular transformer based unit.

    IME, lanthanated and ceriated work best on my 300DX and 350DX. Thoriated also works well but I have gotten away from that because of health reasons and the performance isn't necessarily better.
    Dynasty 350DX
    Dynasty 200DX TigRunner
    MM 350P
    MM Passport Plus
    Spectrum 375 Extreme
    08' Trailblazer 302

  7. #17

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by KB Fabrications View Post
    Something no one has mentioned yet is post-flow. If you have inadequate post-flow and/or you pull your torch away from the weldment too soon you will have tungsten frosting.
    I have been doing that. I'm new to TIG and so I'll have to watch some of these tips and concentrate on not creating bad habits.

    Thanks,

    JD

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Midland, Mi.
    Posts
    313

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by KB Fabrications View Post
    One good practice to get into is to lightly scratch the tungsten to your work before you strike an arc. Your start should be immediate when you do that.
    X2

    That method has worked very well with my 200DX

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    106

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by KB Fabrications View Post
    One good practice to get into is to lightly scratch the tungsten to your work before you strike an arc. Your start should be immediate when you do that.
    I've never tried that. What does it do (I mean what effect does it have that makes it start better)?

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Eugene, Oregon
    Posts
    2,428

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by phila.renewal View Post
    I've never tried that. What does it do (I mean what effect does it have that makes it start better)?
    It removes the frost from the tip of the tungsten and allows for a positive start. Since the frosting is the likely culprit of the poor start, it makes sense that removing a bit of it on the tip would help.
    Dynasty 350DX
    Dynasty 200DX TigRunner
    MM 350P
    MM Passport Plus
    Spectrum 375 Extreme
    08' Trailblazer 302

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