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  1. #1

    Default Dynasty 200 DX problem

    I've got a new Dynasty 200 DX and I'm having problems with getting the arc started on some .080" aluminum I'm welding. When I have a freshly ground tungsten, it will start as normal (I'm using a foot pedal), but after the first use, the tungsten will get a small ball on the end and then the arc doesn't want to start again. It will just make the frequency ticking sound and get some static arcing, but not get going like normal. I'm using a 3/32" tungsten, with the AC balance on 60 and frequency on 130. If I start moving the torch around (increasing the distance to the aluminum) it will sometimes start. I'm running about 145 amps max setting.

    Any ideas?

    JD

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Calgary, Alberta
    Posts
    377

    Default

    I've seen this problem come up before, and I also have the same sort of difficulties some times with my 300dx. Try switching to a 2% thoriated, I found it a little better than pure, but I think the best tungesten to use is the lanthanated kind. When I first tried out the dx model 4 years ago, I found it worked the best with lanthinated, when I changed over to another type, the hard arc starting was apparent.
    Jonny

    Dynasty 300DX
    Esab PCM 1000

  3. #3

    Default

    I think I am. It's the orange colored type, isn't it?

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Albuquerque, NM
    Posts
    1,788

    Default

    Orange woud be 2% Ceriated and that should be the easist to start. For .080 aluminum I would set the max amps to no more than 100, most likely 90 to start, Balance on 70 and freq on 120. I would switch to 1/16" (3/32" should work also) tungsten and taper it to 30 degrees with a .010 flat on the tip. Be very sure you have a good ground. When I first got my Dynasty it would sometimes do the same thing, I removed the cover and ran a very clean .009 feeler thru the points and have had no trouble since. Just stuff to try, let us know if you work it out.
    Regards, George

    Hobart Handler 210 w/DP3035 - Great 240V small Mig
    Hobart Handler 140 - Great 120V Mig
    Hobart Handler EZ125 - IMO the best 120V Flux Core only machine

    Miller Dynasty 200DX with cooler of my design, works for me
    Miller Spectrum 375 - Nice Cutter

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    CT.
    Posts
    333

    Default

    I agree with Sundown. Also what is your pre-flow at. I had a dyn 200 and it would also do this. I upped the pre-flow a little like less than a second I think and it started fine after that all the time. There are also arc start menus you can go into and set the start up amperage. It is in the manual. I forget what buttons to press to get into this setting. However before doing this you also might want to try to restore the factory default settings of your machine. Try it that way first then if that does not work you can play with the menus.
    Look in the manual again for the factory default settings.
    T.J.
    Miller Dynasty 300DX
    HTP MIG 240
    HTP 380 Plasma

    Bridgeport Milling Machine
    South Bend Lathe
    Etc. Etc....
    tjsperformance.com

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Bath England
    Posts
    15

    Default

    do you guys get zirconiated tungstens over there? before the introduction of ceriated and lanth types we always used thorium foc dc and zirc for ac.
    zirc gives a good weld and ***** up well - not problems starting.

    i only use gold tips nowadays and have had no trouble with starting with my 200 dynasty.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Albuquerque, NM
    Posts
    1,788

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by brightspark View Post
    do you guys get zirconiated tungstens over there? before the introduction of ceriated and lanth types we always used thorium foc dc and zirc for ac.
    zirc gives a good weld and ***** up well - not problems starting.

    i only use gold tips nowadays and have had no trouble with starting with my 200 dynasty.
    We can get zirc's no problem but most have settled on either Ceriated or lanthaniated. I settled on 2% Lanthaniated (Blue) for everything as it make is easier to keep stock without worring about different tungstens.

    I see you are from Bath, my daughter will be going to Bath Spa collage in just over a year from now, she did a visit last christmas and was very impressed. Her boyfriend lives in Runcorn and will be here for the summer this year. Small world ... Cheers.
    Regards, George

    Hobart Handler 210 w/DP3035 - Great 240V small Mig
    Hobart Handler 140 - Great 120V Mig
    Hobart Handler EZ125 - IMO the best 120V Flux Core only machine

    Miller Dynasty 200DX with cooler of my design, works for me
    Miller Spectrum 375 - Nice Cutter

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Bath England
    Posts
    15

    Default

    hey Sundown,

    your daughter will do well there its a very good college and the area's real nice. If you ever make it over to visit her you'll have to drop by my shop and burn some rods
    Funny enough I was working in Runcorn last year for 3 months so I know that area pretty well too.

    Really is a small world!!!

  9. #9
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    539

    Default

    Had my dynasty a couple of months, starts are good with both the ceriated and lanth (1.5%).

    The tips ball up quick depending on where the balance is. Like you said, needs to be ground then. Mine does not like a balled tip at all. Its like a jacobs ladder.

    When mine doesn't start, I mess with the ground to get a good connection to the part.

    Have used mine at 150hz on aluminum.

    Setting it back to factory default is a good idea.

    When it has a ball on the tip and the arc is dancing everywhere, sometimes if you jump on the power fast and heavy, it will stablize, then back off power. Do this on practice metal, I have melted more than once getting the touch. Better to have a angle tip, not a ball.
    Last edited by trstek; 05-11-2007 at 07:53 AM.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    106

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by trstek View Post
    When it has a ball on the tip and the arc is dancing everywhere, sometimes if you jump on the power fast and heavy, it will stablize, then back off power. Do this on practice metal, I have melted more than once getting the touch. Better to have a angle tip, not a ball.

    Believe it or not, what it might be telling you is you have the wrong tungsten diameter. If a doped tungsten forms a ball when you don't want it to, your tungsten is too small for the current you are running.

    If you wanted it balled and the arc is dancing around but more heat for a second focuses the arc, your tungsten is too big. What you are doing is heating up the tungsten which results in better electron emission -- it should be hot enough at the current you are running to not dance around without gunning it.

    Know what I mean?

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