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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Vero Beach, fl.
    Posts
    761

    Default cast aluminum question

    I need some help in doing a cast aluminum repair. Where the item is located I cant reach with my tig rig and will have to try using stick rod. The problem is that I have never burnt an aluminum stick rod before, can any one give me some tips and pointers to make this as painless as possible.
    whats the best rod for cast (4043?), heat settings etc...
    The piece that needs repair is on a flat panel and is 3/16" thick, and has an ear attached as a pivot point. the ear is what has been broken off. Thanks Dave
    If necessity is the Mother of Invention, I must be the Father of Desperation!

    John Blewett III 10-22-73 to 8-16-07
    Another racing great gone but not to be forgotten.http://video.google.com/videoplay?do...modified&hl=en

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Ocean City, Maryland
    Posts
    951

    Default

    wow, stick aluminum. Have never done it but have heard of it. I'm curious also if it can be really done
    Scott
    HMW [Heavy Metal welding]

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Hampton, Va.
    Posts
    386

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by down19992000 View Post
    i was told by our welding instructor at work to preheat then weld about a 1/2 inch at a time, starting and ending at opposite ends of part and then postheat by throwing in an oven if possible or cover in sand

    I believe you are thinking of cast iron.

    Wheelchair

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Central illinois
    Posts
    98

    Default aluminum stick

    i have try alum, stick two or three times and had no luck at it seems to want to ball up i did perheat and tryed reseting the welder. ended up getting the spoolgun out. this was on a transmisson on a bubbys stock car its still holding today. good luck dave hope your eyes are doing ok
    miller bobcat 250
    wc 115a
    spoolmatic 30a
    centery 250 mic
    2 lincoln 225 stick
    a 1954 hobart portable welder w/ willies jeep engine

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Albuquerque, NM
    Posts
    1,788

    Default

    Count me in those who tried SMAW aluminum, I guess it can be done ... but I won't try it again. Spoolgun is really the way to go if you can't tig it. JMHO. BTW, CK & I think Weldcraft makes some very long and skinny torches you might look at.
    Last edited by Sundown; 05-01-2007 at 07:55 PM.
    Regards, George

    Hobart Handler 210 w/DP3035 - Great 240V small Mig
    Hobart Handler 140 - Great 120V Mig
    Hobart Handler EZ125 - IMO the best 120V Flux Core only machine

    Miller Dynasty 200DX with cooler of my design, works for me
    Miller Spectrum 375 - Nice Cutter

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Vero Beach, fl.
    Posts
    761

    Default Here's the problem

    The piece to be fixed is in an area where every thing was built around it and I can't get the equipment to it. We can't even get the welders in the same room as the part to be fixed, it's in a tank room of a small juice plant and every thing is real tight to work around. To make matters even worse it is a hatch in the ceiling behind many rows of homogenizing and glycol tubing. There are 14 double rows of 2" stainless pipe in the way of removing the part for repair. The leads we have for the spool gun and tig units will not reach any where close to the area we have to get to, and taking apart the chiller lines is not an option. I am open for any suggestions or ideas. Dave
    If necessity is the Mother of Invention, I must be the Father of Desperation!

    John Blewett III 10-22-73 to 8-16-07
    Another racing great gone but not to be forgotten.http://video.google.com/videoplay?do...modified&hl=en

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