Hi. I have a Trailblazer 301G that won't start. I tried to start it once, the engine cranked a few times and it sounded like the starter started to drag so I stopped. The next time I tried to start it there was nothing. There is a wire that is connected to the post where the battery wire connects to the starter that is fused. The fuse was blown so I replaced it. When I replaced it, it immediately blew again. It appears that fused wire runs over to maybe a voltage regulator on the side of the engine. It has a Kohler engine in it. Anyone have any ideas? Thanks.
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Thread: welder won't start
06-16-2007, 12:35 PM #1Junior Member
- Join Date
- Jun 2007
welder won't start
06-16-2007, 01:19 PM #2Senior Member
- Join Date
- Sep 2002
- Clark County, NV
Did you kick it yet?
06-16-2007, 08:23 PM #3
welcome to the board.
is this new and the first try to start it or is it an older unit that just started this the last 2 starting atemps ??
i dont know where its been but starters can get gloged up and freez up on ya. i would say tap it with a hammer but if it was dragging its not likely to help out tapping it. it will most likely need rebuilt.
if its brand new, they may have over tightend some thing but i would take it back and get them to handle it. no point in starting off working on a new one.
duuu!! 301G that cant be new can it. ok so back to the first 1/2. rebuild is on order. bearings dryed out or brushes worn out.thanks for the help
hope i helped
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06-17-2007, 09:35 AM #4Junior Member
- Join Date
- Jun 2007
Thanks for the welcome and replies. I thought about it maybe being a starter problem but the wire that has the fuse in it is not the one that comes from the starting switch to the starter solenoid. The wire with the fuse in it runs from where the battery cable connects to the starter over to the other side of the engine at the voltage regulator. I dont even have to turn the switch to blow the fuse; as soon as you put a new fuse in it it blows. I think im up on the idea of kicking it...lol. Thanks.
06-17-2007, 12:29 PM #5
It probably does not go to the reg but to the ignition switch. Id have to check to be sure. Most igniton systems are [ i dont mean spark/fire] fused right at the starter post. You can jumper the soloniod, the big terminal that goes to the battery to the little terminal. If it cranks the solonoid/battery/starter are all good. Leave key off as engine may start. Sounds like you have a short/ground in ignition side of the electrical system. Hard to tell with out looking at it Let me know i it helps. Id be glad to help more if i can
06-17-2007, 12:34 PM #6
If your sure it runs to the regulator just disonnect it. It will still start just not charge. I'd have to go out in the shop and look at one, but they are all pretty common
06-19-2007, 09:58 AM #7
You guys are right on. It is likely a bad starter or voltage regulator. With your starter making a funny sound, that is likely the problem.Have a great day!
Miller Electric Mfg. Co.
Owner and user of:
Trailblazer 302 and Legend 301
Smith Dual Guard oxy-fuel system
Various borrowed Millermatics and Spectrums.
06-19-2007, 11:42 AM #8Senior Member
- Join Date
- Dec 2006
Pray its not the voltage regulator or you may have other problems if it was ran overvolting for any period of time without that fuse blowing.Millermatic 180 DC,Miller Spoolmatic 3,Miller HF-251-D1 __ Lincoln Cobramatic/Cobramatic Gold
Millermatic 200 with pulse/spot/burnback panel DC ______Lincoln Idealarc Tig 300/300 AC/DC
Miller ECONO twin HF 150 AC/DC .____________________ Lincoln Idealarc R3R 300 DC
Miller Trailblazer 250G AC/DC (20hp. Onan) .____________ Lincoln Buzz box 225/125 AC/DC
O/A Harris, Purox, Victor, Torchweld (To many to list) .___AIRCO wire feeder
06-20-2007, 01:11 PM #9
I really can't recall ever seeing a Kohler, 3-wire, voltage regulator shorted but anything is possible. Usually its a wiring short/ground. The center wire is 12+volts DC while the 2 outside wires are AC current coming from the alternator under the flywheel. Cant rememeber the votlage but something like 20-30 volts AC from the alt. I'd have to look it up to be sure. Most problems from regulators are they dont charge. But the regulator is fairly inexpensive, the alternator under the flywheel is much higher and more work to get at but they too seldom go bad. These charging systems are fairly simple and very reliable. There are some easy tests but I wont go into detail unless he needs them. I havent seen a reply from him so maybe he got it running.