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What Rod?

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  • What Rod?

    I have a implement, attached to a Kubota loader with 5 foot arms ( one fixed, the other swivels back and forth) used at a nursery to pick up balled trees. It has become worn where it swivels in the frame and the customer wants it filled in with weld. Any suggestions as to what I should use for rods. Could 6011 be ok to accomplish this task? Thanks

  • #2
    rod

    Originally posted by craneops View Post
    I have a implement, attached to a Kubota loader with 5 foot arms ( one fixed, the other swivels back and forth) used at a nursery to pick up balled trees. It has become worn where it swivels in the frame and the customer wants it filled in with weld. Any suggestions as to what I should use for rods. Could 6011 be ok to accomplish this task? Thanks
    definitely not!! 7018 is a way better choice. 6011 dosen't have the ductillity or the toughness for a repair like that. 6011,6013 ect are all farmer rods every farmer has them cause they are cheap and relitivly easy to use but won't hold s-hit out in the field. My uncle is a farmer and had a pallett of the stuff (got it cheap at the auction) he couldn't figure out why everything was breaking he thought it was the welder so he bought a new one and that didn't help. So I sent him a box of 7018 and he hasn't broke anything since. Hope this fable helps Jef

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    • #3
      i used to use 6013 for building hitches and never had a problem. Its good for old steel and the sorts. I used 7011 also only for welds where gravity wasent concernd, but i've never had any of my welds with a 6013 rod break and i was welding 16,000 lbs hitches and pintle mounts and hitches are taken through some abuse with the rattleing and all , i dunno what the standards are for the rod but they worked for me. I did switch to mig tho , there is so much less work involved.

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      • #4
        7018 is all I would use.

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        • #5
          Originally posted by Bmxin^Bjorn View Post
          i used to use 6013 for building hitches and never had a problem. Its good for old steel and the sorts. I used 7011 also only for welds where gravity wasent concernd, but i've never had any of my welds with a 6013 rod break and i was welding 16,000 lbs hitches and pintle mounts and hitches are taken through some abuse with the rattleing and all , i dunno what the standards are for the rod but they worked for me. I did switch to mig tho , there is so much less work involved.
          Sorry to do this to you 6013 6011 60xx anything should not be used alone to weld anyining that will see the severe service as trailer hitch. It will not have the ductility or the tensile strength. 60xx in an open root covered with 70xx would work. 6010 6011 6013 are all fast freeze rods so the parent metals never get hot enough to create anything but a very brittle Heat affected Zone.

          TJ

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          • #6
            i know what your saying and i understand but it's been working for E&H since 1967 and never has failed , but the point is it does work ,, it's kinda like your not supposto weld 1/2 steel with the mm 135 but if u do it properly it can work... jus my opinion , i've been doing it this way and now have switched to mig but it can work... craneops , my advice to you is do what works best for you. .. it's not like it has to be certified or anything.. i would jus get a few of each rod and see wich one works best.

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            • #7
              I work for Cat's largest dealership, Finning. I do bore buildups and overlay almost every day, and the best advice I can give you for a build up job is to use 8018 or an 80,000 lb wire. I use Arctec 223XC stick electrodes, however 8018-C3 works just as well. For the very least, use 7018. On smaller bores I can get away with ER70S6 using preheat, but for the larger bores and surfaces stick lasts longer, or fluxcore, and the higher elongation fillermetals tend to be the best.

              Photo: This is a pic of a Caterpillar 385 digging bucket. The coupler ear was built up using an 80,000 psi gas shielded fluxcore wire. The weld may not be pretty, but it will be machined off and returned to the new factory state. This type of overlay tends to last longer than the origional metal surface underlying.
              Attached Files

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              • #8
                i agree with johnny tig, 8018, 9018, ect. theese are alot stronger than 7018. they will withstand more and probably last longer.

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                • #9
                  Go Away!

                  Originally posted by MelMcDoogle
                  Here is a good one for work at home programs and whitehat internet marketing tools ; bonus gift free website and money makers at: ChaseTheGlow . Com
                  1st time to post, but been lurking for some time. I come here because of my intrest in welding, cutting, and equipment. I also like the fact that there are no pop ups. Now just about every post I click on has this. I don't think it deserves any attention because that is their goal, but I would suggest it be deleted.

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