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    Are there a real big difference in welding rods? I bought rods from a different mfgr. their also different sizes i have one brand and size doesent work as good as another. do u have to change style with different sizes??

  • #2
    Hi there Ive found that some run better than others but that is just a prefferance in bead out come when done you have to change your heat setting if you move up or down in rod size .

    Comment


    • #3
      There are Electrodes

      I find that from the different manufactures there are some differences, some people notice them more than others. Once I find a rod that I like, I buy a tin of them. Others I keep on hand, because I use very small ones now and then. Once in a while I will weld cast iron or some thing that maybe almost pure nickle.

      I don't have any standard type of work, so I get to try different things. You may want to stop in at local welding shop and talk to them, they may give you good advice and maybe some rods to try out.

      Jerry

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      • #4
        electrodes

        I went to a supply store, thinking that 1\8 was too big . i got 3\32 7014 from hobart. all the hobart sticks i bought wont work. they will run for a couple of seconds and the arc will stop. i had some rods from farm and shop and they run perfectly. same size 7014 same with6013 why is this.

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        • #5
          The way I see it is if you buy a welder stick,mig,flux I think your best out come for work will be using the same brand as your welder is, mind you different kinds will work but if you want to stay away from confuesion in buying parts and rods for welders is stick with the same brand. Or as JF said go to a local shop and see what they use they would really give the best advice.

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          • #6
            The absolute best thing to do is stay with a major brand rod. Linc, Hobart, Esab, etc. They will work the best of all of the others. That isn't to say the others won't work...they obviously will. But you will get what you pay for. The primo rods will act better and perform a lot better consistantly in the long run.

            There are differences in the primos as well. IMO, a Hobart 7018 runs a little nicer than a Lincoln. My old Bobcat would not run a Hobart rod for any reason. No idea why. It would sputter something terrible. Go to a Linc, and all was right. My new TB likes Hobarts... Go figure.

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            • #7
              Its the same story with me, My thunderbolt hates the ESAB 7018 it'll stick and spatter but it will run prostar and bluesheild 7018 with no problem. Then I'll go to work and the ranger 250 and idealarc will just eat up the ESAB rods. Its funny how these things happen.

              Charles

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              • #8
                i been planing on trying out my new TA-185 on the stick side just for giggles. any recomendations for rod for it???
                no idea what i will be welding on i guess it will depend on the rod i get but i got some steel, SS and aluminum hanging around to play on. mostly thin stuff1/8" and under but a little 1/4 to 3/8" steel
                any idea where i could find a good chart for what rod for what??
                havent run a stick in25 years and it was handed to me ready to go then.
                lost and needing help.

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                • #9
                  Try this....

                  James, email me your address and I will send you a handful of 5p+ to try out. I use them for root and hot passes on pipe, plate, angle and most anything else when my base metal is clean and rust free. They run pretty hot, you've gotta keep the rod tip buried in the puddle and play close attention to your heat. They penetrate better than Lo-Hy but don't look as pretty.

                  Let me know,

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