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SMAW big rod uphill problem

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  • SMAW big rod uphill problem

    I'm working on a project at work where I'm welding a 3/4" plate to a piece of rec tubing that is 3/16" wall. I have to build the weld quite a ways out, and have been using a 3/16" rod on the flat stuff with pretty good results. I've tried 3/16" 7018 on the vertical and overhead stuff, but the puddle keeps blowing out. I've tried all kinds of head settings with the same results. Both pieces are preheated before I weld. I can get beautiful welds with the 1/8" rod in any position, but the bigger rod is acting like a beast. Any suggestions? Is the larger rod just for really, really thick metal? Thanks!

  • #2
    Are you using ac or dc?

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    • #3
      DCEN. I've tried to run beads on some heavy scrap with the triangle pattern uphill, but I keep cratering after a couple rounds. It's also near impossible to me to keep the arc length short enough with the larger rods which makes it spit and sputter worse.

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      • #4
        All in the joint!

        Hi crzdriver, I can only think of one time I ever ran 3/16 7018 vertically. Ran it overhead a lot on one project where it was required, ever tho we had wire feeders.
        The one time I ran it vertically was on some sheet pile, only because thatís all we had at the time. When welding interlocks on sheet pile itís almost the perfect joint! Itís almost like welding two pieces of 1 1/2 -inch round stock together. I remember being shocked at how easy it was, also remember having to really increase the angle, like maybe twice the angle, have to really force the metal up hill! But to just make a pass vertically on a flat plate with 3/16 7018 Iíd say youíd be the man!

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        • #5
          Try running the 7018 on DCEP.

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          • #6
            Well, I worked on some scrap 5/8 plate this morning as a last resort before giving up. After many close attempts, I fingered it out. The trick is to make your side to side bead, then sweep straight up the root, maybe about 3/4 of an inch. You want to go far enough to let the last bead freeze, but not so far that the slag freezes before you sweep back down. The key is to build the weld so that you aren't always working in a huge pool of lava at 200 amps. Thanks for the input.

            BTW-Isn't 7018 spec'd all over the planet for reverse pole?
            Last edited by crzdriver; 12-07-2006, 03:59 PM. Reason: update

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            • #7
              Originally posted by JonnyTIG View Post
              Try running the 7018 on DCEP.
              I agree

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              • #8
                Yes it is listed DCEP. The previous post I answered stated DCEN, so I thought that might be the problem.

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by crzdriver View Post
                  BTW-Isn't 7018 spec'd all over the planet for reverse pole?
                  Reverse polarity is DC Electrode Positive (DCEP). Sounds backwards, but that's the way it is, many people get confused about this. Straight polarity is DCEN.

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                  • #10
                    It is easier to weld with a smaller diameter rod and lower amps when
                    welding in a vertical position.
                    Have watched tradesmen welding vertical up and have observed them
                    going to a fair amount of trouble to get the correct amperage,they
                    usually used a 1/8th rod.
                    If you get the opportunity watch someone who is a competant
                    out of position welder making these types of welds, it makes it much
                    easier when you try them yourself.

                    R W

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                    • #11
                      i was having problems with a 5/32 10018 rod and an old field hand told me to just jam it in there and go. it worked.

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