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Modifying sidewall of my 20' shipping container into hydraulic assist door.

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  • Modifying sidewall of my 20' shipping container into hydraulic assist door.

    This is what I'm after. Does anybody have suggestions as to how I design this? I like the idea of the door also providing rain protection. My goal is to have my welding table right inside, open the door and be able to go right to work. I was thinking of cutting the opening, then re-framing it by welding in square tubing. Then, I would weld angle iron all the way around the inside of the rough opening, so that the door would have something to nest into. I would then use the piece of Corten steel I cut out as the door skin, welding it to its own square tube frame. Then I would have to figure out the top hinge mechanism, what kind of lift strut would work, weather stripping, and most importantly the security mechanism which I think would have to lock from the inside. I would love some help on this.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jnUufti1r5k


  • #2
    Try these guys...

    https://www.sgs-engineering.com/help-advice/how-to-calculate-the-force-required-for-a-gas-strut/

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    • #3
      Originally posted by ryanjones2150 View Post
      Thank you for the link. They're a British company so I'm not sure what they could do for me, and the struts are the least of my concerns. I posted here because I'm not an engineer, and am looking for suggestions on the actual engineering of the door itself since this is a welding forum and I'm a newbie at projects like this.

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      • #4
        I've put a couple of man doors in shipping containers. Just like you were thinking cut the hole and frame it in with angle iron. We used 1/4 x 2 x 3 with the 2" side on the exterior. Then we bought a steel door and jamb from McMaster Carr and welded in place. Making a door from the cutout sounds like a way less expensive way to go and just as good. For a a flip up door I would frame it in square tube with flat bar on both sides and the bottom to seal it. I would use either 1/2" or 3/4" rod for my hinge pin with 1/8" wall or thicker for hinge barrel material all the way across the top. For hydraulics I would use two cylinders one each side of the door. top connection on the door about 6" to 10" from the top and the bottom connection on the door frame 18" to 24" from the top. cylinder location is totally dependent on cylinder throw. Just my 2 cents worth, Hope it helps.
        Last edited by Oldgrandad; 11-06-2017, 09:38 AM.

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        • #5
          Originally posted by pnw215 View Post

          Thank you for the link. They're a British company so I'm not sure what they could do for me, and the struts are the least of my concerns. I posted here because I'm not an engineer, and am looking for suggestions on the actual engineering of the door itself since this is a welding forum and I'm a newbie at projects like this.
          You asked this question also "Then I would have to figure out the top hinge mechanism, what kind of lift strut would work," so he provided a link to calculating the strut size required once you have built the door.

          Your plan for framing the door sounds good.

          As far as security- sliding large door bolts, simple clasps will work also.

          Ed Conley
          http://www.screamingbroccoli.net/
          MM252
          MM211
          Passport Plus w/Spool Gun
          TA185
          Miller 125c Plasma 120v
          O/A set
          SO 2020 Bender
          You can call me Bacchus

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          • #6
            https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5VxVAmNKFPU

            This one has better shots of possible hinges and the weather stripping.

            Ed Conley
            http://www.screamingbroccoli.net/
            MM252
            MM211
            Passport Plus w/Spool Gun
            TA185
            Miller 125c Plasma 120v
            O/A set
            SO 2020 Bender
            You can call me Bacchus

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            • #7
              That one there is a fancy shipping container. I wonder if it's British?

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              • #8
                I suggest checking out the Sea Box website and looking over their custom military and industrial container shops and shelters. You'll get plenty of ideas. BTW if you need to seal anything like a weatherhead or other items which pierce the shell, 3M 5200 is the Goo of the Gods. It's through-hull marine sealant and wonderful stuff. Many hardware stores carry it or order online.

                For a hinge that long making your own from pipe and rod would likely be the way to go.

                Elevator bolts are convenient to tack to your walls, and it's easy to make shelving or anything else hang from the tiedown loops at the inside roof corners. You can easily torch bend more loops if you want. They also make great snatch block and winch points for moving machine tools.

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                • #9
                  Yeah looks Brit to me.

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                  • #10
                    Jolly good!

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