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Fixture to paint fiberglass tanks

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  • Fixture to paint fiberglass tanks

    Here at my job we have somewhere around 3500 of what we call 14" tanks and about 2000 10" tanks. They are made of fiberglass, after several years of use the fiberglass starts to shed so we paint them. I was asked to made a fixture that could be loaded vertically then rotated to horizontal to paint. The bottle also needs to spin so as to make painting much easier and quicker. So over the next week or so I will post the build. Here is the pic for today I cut all the material and deburred some of it.

  • #2
    This will be good. One bottle at a time, or several?

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    • #3
      One at a time. The paint being used is a two part epoxy paint, when it's hot out you can only get 2 done before the paint kicks. We brush and roll, not allowed to spray. California and the EPA say it's bad for the environment and over spray would get on the cars in the parking lot.

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      • #4
        Lots of brushes and rollers !

        Was going to suggest Earl Scheib but company is out of business.

        https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Earl_Scheib
        Miller Dynasty 350, Dynasty 210 DX, Hypertherm 1000, Thermal Arc GTSW400, Airco Heliwelder II, oxy-fuel setup, metal cutting bandsaw, air compressor, drill press, etc.

        Call me the "Clouseau" of welding !

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        • #5
          Originally posted by Oldgrandad View Post
          ...not allowed to spray. California and the EPA say it's bad ...
          Dang. That reminds me I need to get outside and put a second spray coat on my last job.

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          • #6
            Well day 2 is done and I got a little done Thats a taping block helps make the threads straight in the hole.
            Last edited by Oldgrandad; 10-05-2017, 04:20 PM.

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            • #7
              This is the top bracket did the lay out, then drilled and tap holes and shape the ends

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              • #8
                Here is the top bracket with the half couplings and it's bearing shaft. One piece done.

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                • #9
                  End caps, bevel both end cap and tube. Tack all four corners, tap flat with hammer then weld. All end caps done.

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                  • #10
                    Sorry for the delay in posting been to busy. Here is the next piece, the bottom bracket. Mark center then 30 degree angle . Set up in cold saw and cut 3 parts. Tack and weld.

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                    • #11
                      Mark center drill and tap 3/8 -16 on center for bearing shaft. Then cut and weld side supports for base bracket. These hold the base of the tank snug in the fixture. The outer holes are for the lager 14" tank and the inner holes are for the 10" tank the slot allows the painter to adjust for differances in base size. Over the years the base vary in size a little.

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                      • #12
                        That's a prick punch and a standard center punch. I always use a prick punch (bad eyes) so as to get the ding right on the cross hairs then wail on it with the standard punch to give the drill a good starting point. These parts are for the base of the fixture. The nut I welded in is for adjustment feet so it won't rock. I used the bolt with the two nut tacked at the end to set the height of the nut I welded into the base frame.
                        Last edited by Oldgrandad; 10-18-2017, 04:38 PM.

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                        • #13
                          Here are the feet 5/8-11 bolts with three 1/2 x 3/8 x 2" long stainless tabs for easy adjustment with your foot.

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                          • #14
                            These plates go on the top of the post that houses the bearings for the spinny part. Layout center lines, hole saw, cut in half, trim the corners (for looks), weld in place.

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                            • #15
                              Tack and weld in bearing housing tube.

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