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welding aluminum beer cans

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  • #46
    Originally posted by Don52 View Post
    First attempt to TIG weld two pop cans together.

    -I also found that it was difficult to melt both sides.
    -The heat always wanted to go to one side.
    -The following were my settings:

    Main Amperage = 30 amps
    Start Amps = 10amps (Default start time and polarity)
    Torch = 0.040 thoriated ground just slightly with a # 4 cup on a WP-17 torch
    Gas = 100% Argon at 12cfph with a gas lens
    Rod = 1/16" 4043

    Balance = 70%
    Frequency = 150Hz

    That ALWAYS happens to me...the trick (for me anyway) is to get a puddle going, then lean that cup back and really push the puddle forward. with the arc and gas.... 4043 by nature "wets" better than 5356 so it should be easier...keep the tungsten close and aim it where there's no heat going(i find myself moving it from the angle edge of one can right over to the other when starting the puddle or if it looses "shape" and needs re-heated.

    Then once the puddle is built and fluid, lean that cup back, keep the heat on the filler (and keep the rod in the whole time..no dipping has done me best) and then just push the puddle while steadily adding filler to cool the material...those are my tips anyway, hope they help..You weld looks good to me though *shrugs*

    Might wanna go to 20-25 amps...25 is sketchy for me...30 leans towards burning holes real fast if the arc wanders to one side and too high. Patience helps a TON too :P
    Dynasty 200DX
    Hobart Handler 135
    Smith MB55A-510 O/A setup
    Lathe/Mill/Bandsaw
    Hypertherm Powermax 45
    Just about every other hand tool you can imagine

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    • #47
      Thanks for the tips.
      Originally posted by turboglenn View Post

      (i find myself moving it from the angle edge of one can right over to the other when starting the puddle or if it looses "shape" and needs re-heated.)
      I am going to try that to allow me to melt each side. I know that the 150 Hz causes a stiffer arc, compared to what others have used, but I have found that I can make a smaller weld bead, with the higher frequency. I like it because it allows me to get the arc to dig down into the center trough.

      Might wanna go to 20-25 amps...25 is sketchy for me...30 leans towards burning holes real fast if the arc wanders to one side and too high. Patience helps a TON too :P
      I set the max amps to 30, but I let up on the pedal once I start welding so I am actually welding at a lower current.

      Thanks again,
      Don
      Miller Thunderbolt
      Smith Oxyacetylene Torch
      Miller Dynasty 200DX
      Lincoln SP-250 MIG Welder
      Clausing/Coldchester 15" Lathe
      16" DuAll Saw
      15" Drill Press
      7" x 9" Swivel Head Horizontal Band Saw
      20 Ton Arbor Press
      Bridgeport
      Miller Spectrum 375 Plasma Torch

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      • #48
        well instead of welding to beer cans together . do what I do. I buy the 40 oz cans

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        • #49
          beer cans

          I believe the beer cans have special coatings on the iside to prserve the beer, that is probably conmtaminating every weld

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          • #50
            All aluminum cans have varnish on them to keep the liquids from eating a hole in the can body, 115 Milligrams to be exact. Oh and the frost brewed liner on the Coors cans is Bull****, just blue varnish. As long as you don't burn through you should be safe from contamination
            MM 211 W/ Spoolgun
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            • #51
              Welding Beer cans

              Hello,

              Currently I have 6 250's in the shop that I instruct in. I have found that using a piece of angle iron to help fit the 2 can together is beneficial. Pre cleaning the cans with a stainless or brass wire brush is a must. My students practice with 1/16" 2%thoriated and we use 4043 .030 spool gun wire. After the 2 cans are tacked, the arc must be concentrated in the center of the tack to begin the welds. I have found if the cans are not cleaned properly by remiving the clear coat the arc will take the least path of resistance and melt a hole in one of the cans. A steady hand is a must, and the rate at which the filler metal is added is essential.

              Hopefuly this helps,

              Adam

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              • #52
                welding beer cans with a dynasty 200dx

                A few tricks for welding the beer cans with a dynasty 200dx:
                First thing is punch a hole in one of them so that the expanding gases dont blow out when you close up the last little bit of the weld.
                second, use 1/16" or even .040" electrode, either 2% thoriated, ceriated, or lanthanated and put a taper on it just like you would for welding on DC. maybe not quite as sharp.
                A/c balance around 60, frequency/HZ at about 100-120
                Filler metal no bigger than 1/16"
                use 4043. 4047 is even better because it has slightly lower melt point and wets out better with lower heat.

                If you really want to strut, run a really light pass around the ridge of each can where the weld will be, in addition to all the above.

                Good luck,

                Jody
                www.weldingtipsandtricks.com
                Jody Collier http://www.weldingtipsandtricks.com/sigpic

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                • #53
                  Welding beer cans

                  Hi
                  Is this what you had in mind?---I having been doing this for years using a Miller Snycro Wave 250 :-)
                  Attached Files

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                  • #54
                    Tecknition,

                    Congratulation on the purchase of the 200dx, I am picking mine up "today". I am as well looking for a new Plasma cutter, we will stay intouch and compare notes!

                    Tim

                    [QUOTE=teknition;2770]I recently purchased a Miller Dynasty 200DX and want to practice welding thin aluminum.
                    sigpicRetired Elevator Consrtructor Local 19 IUEC
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                    • #55
                      Not two cans together, but this part of the can is thinner.


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                      • #56
                        and here is mine. i only had 3/32 filler and haven't welded alum in a long time. i should have toke more time with it but just banged it out to show some one. and i didn't use any fancy settings. it is the second one i did, the first one had a grounding issue and the hole side of the can blow out.
                        Attached Files
                        TB 325
                        TB 302
                        dynasty 200sd
                        spoolmatic 30a/wc24
                        suitcase x-treme 12vs
                        miller 211
                        evolution rage 2

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                        • #57
                          Ive found that Monster cans work rather well...just scotch brite the paint off, and get bare alum...go to town.

                          I used an 1/8th" 2% thoriated electrode, used some 1/16th" rod (3003 I think), and set max at 15 amps. On a Lincoln. Gas flow was about 10cfh.

                          Ive tried welding cans the same way with a miller...doesn't seem to work as well, but again, so many settings I had no clue where to put them all.

                          The best bead I ever had was on one of the 24oz'ers and I ran from the top ridge to about an inch from the bottom before I finally burned through. Great practice for consistency, and pedal control though!
                          Precision is only as important as the project...if you're building a rocket ship...1/64" would matter. If you're building a sledgehammer...an 1/8" probably wont.

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                          • #58
                            Xwelder said the side was harder so here is my side shot. i have to weld some alum tomorrow so i used a piece of the stock. it's 1/8.
                            the two holes are from the cup. (the sides sure are thin)
                            Attached Files
                            TB 325
                            TB 302
                            dynasty 200sd
                            spoolmatic 30a/wc24
                            suitcase x-treme 12vs
                            miller 211
                            evolution rage 2

                            Comment


                            • #59
                              Originally posted by vin-man welding View Post
                              Xwelder said the side was harder so here is my side shot. i have to weld some alum tomorrow so i used a piece of the stock. it's 1/8.
                              the two holes are from the cup. (the sides sure are thin)

                              That's impressive.

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                              • #60
                                ...I never welded anything to it...props. I just ran the bead and tried to keep it consistent.

                                Imma have to find myself a tig welder I can use, and keep playing around.
                                Precision is only as important as the project...if you're building a rocket ship...1/64" would matter. If you're building a sledgehammer...an 1/8" probably wont.

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