Miller Electric

Welding Discussion Forums

Home » Resources » Communities » Welding Discussion Forums

The forum is currently undergoing maintenance and is in a 'read-only' mode for the time being. Sorry for the inconvenience.


  • If this is your first visit, be sure to check out the FAQ by clicking the link above. You may have to register before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages, select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below.

Announcement

Announcement Module
Collapse
No announcement yet.

Enclosed Trailer

Page Title Module
Move Remove Collapse
X
Conversation Detail Module
Collapse
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Enclosed Trailer

    Alright guys looking for some advice. I have a 6 x 12 enclosed trailer that I bought years ago. Single axle if I had to guess 3500# axle. The frame has rotted out from under it. Frame is 2 x 3 rectangular tubing. My guess is 1/8" wall. The center sections being press broke 1/8" z bends. My question is 1/8" wall tubing sufficient for this trailer? And then what do u think about 2x2 1/8" angle iron the the cross bars with two runs running front to back to eliminate some of the twist in the angle? I wanna build a good trailer frame but want to keep cost reasonable. I don't wanna spend money overbuilding. B/c as said in other threads is only costing me payload.
    Thanks
    Dan

  • #2
    Are you repairing this one or starting from scratch on a new frame?

    My 6x12 enclosed is 2x3 tube main runners and sounds like 1/8" wall when I tap on it. I would use 2x3 x 1/8" angle for the cross supports with the 3" leg vertical down.

    Not understanding this statement of yours.

    (" two runs running front to back to eliminate some of the twist in the angle?")

    Comment


    • #3
      Enclosed Trailer

      Starting from scratch on the base frame

      The steel supplier I normally use said they can't get 2x3 1/8" angle?!?!?

      That was my attempt at saying having angle running from the right side to the left side as it was. Then adding two pieces roughly a third of the way between the two sides running parallel to the side frame members and perpendicular to the main cross members. The top leg which is flat and supports the floor would all be flush. Basically creating a grid for the plywood to sit on. Let me know if that clarifies

      Comment


      • #4
        You are only talking a Max of 2500 pounds payload. 2x2x1/8 Will work fine. Maybe add 2 or 3 extra cross pieces to help brace it but it will work fine.

        Comment


        • #5
          I was wrong on the angle. Should of looked in my book first as 2x3x 1/8 is not available. You'll be fine with 2x2x1/8.

          As far as the angles running front to back that is a lot of extra work to fit them in between each x-member. If your that worried about strength that way add a center tube running front to back but I feel it is not necessary. Or just up the wall thickness on the two main rails.

          I would add a few extra x-members at strategic locations depending on what you plan on hauling. For instance I have extra x-members where my welder & bottles sit.

          Comment


          • #6
            Enclosed Trailer

            Well I have the top off the trailer and am ready to begin fabrication of the new frame. I have no concerns about the fabrication of the frame or gate. I am going to have to strip off at least the roof of the enclosure and reskin and seal it. Has anyone ever skinned an enclosed trailer before? Any advice is welcome!!!

            Comment

            Working...
            X
            Special Offers: See the latest Miller deals and promotions.