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Tightening a Receiver Tube

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  • Tightening a Receiver Tube

    I'm wanting to cut a couple of holes in my concrete floor and install some 2" receiver hitch tubes in them to be able to install and remove some portable stands. The problem is that there is a bit of play in 2" O.D. square tubing, and that play is accentuated the longer the inserted tube gets. Without cutting (and keeping) a much larger opening in the concrete to allow for the installation of some tightening bolts, does anybody have any ideas to accomplish this project?
    Thanks in advance.

  • #2
    What about welding one or two beads on two sides and grinding them down to the snugness you are satisfied with? This should take up the slack in the fit without having set screws to tighten.

    Comment


    • #3
      Ditto, It doesn't take much to fill the gap. Worst case you tack on some thin metal strips to the tube.

      Comment


      • #4
        Maybe weld on small tapered shims onto the same side on both male tubes to press the opposite sides snugly against the receiver tubes?

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by Bistineau View Post
          What about welding one or two beads on two sides and grinding them down to the snugness you are satisfied with? This should take up the slack in the fit without having set screws to tighten.


          great answer!!!

          Comment


          • #6
            The slop is max hundredths of an inch. I would recommend some old feeler gauges as shims that can be used as needed.

            The downside of a permanent fix, welding material to the insert is debris and rust making the fit a permanent one.

            Comment


            • #7
              You can shrink the tube to size with heat and pressure,i.e. rosebud,hammer and an anvil.Use 2" sq.shaft slid inside for sizing if availible or whatever you are using for your post.

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by Forger View Post
                You can shrink the tube to size with heat and pressure,i.e. rosebud,hammer and an anvil.Use 2" sq.shaft slid inside for sizing if availible or whatever you are using for your post.
                Would it not be advantageous to modify the insert, rather than the receiver? I'd worry that the receiver would be over shrunk.

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                • #9
                  I would make up the receiver setup with a plate for floor mounting. Drill holes for four 3/8'' drop in anchors with female threads. You could even counter sink the holes so when not in use bolts could be installed to be flush with concrete.

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                  • #10
                    i would use the hard plastic shims from home depot, they sell them for shimming doors, i always have them for leveling work and setting gapes, etc. they are the rite size to fit the tube and then remove as needed.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      I fix a couple dozen a year for folks that can't stand the rattle. Just weld some dots and grind to suit. Problem solved and 10 bucks in my pocket...Bob

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by aametalmaster View Post
                        I fix a couple dozen a year for folks that can't stand the rattle. Just weld some dots and grind to suit. Problem solved and 10 bucks in my pocket...Bob
                        I stand corrected,this would be the way to go.
                        Good Luck

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by aametalmaster View Post
                          I fix a couple dozen a year for folks that can't stand the rattle. Just weld some dots and grind to suit. Problem solved and 10 bucks in my pocket...Bob
                          Similar solution to what I suggested.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            The biggest problem with the receiver tubes is the factory ones went "el cheapo" and use 3/16 wall thickness tube instead of the old Reese 1/4" wall with the broached out seam weld on the inside. Thats why they went thinner wall so they wouldn't have to fool with the seam weld down one side...Bob

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                            • #15
                              Here is an idea I got from seeing how a bicycle handlebar is attached.

                              Hope you can figure out how it works as my drawing skills are not so good.

                              Red plate is tapped for the bolt while blue one has thru hole.

                              Lots of work but it does take the play out of any attachment.

                              It will require leaving a hole or provision to tighten up the clamp bolt in whatever fixture you attach the clamp to.
                              Attached Files

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