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  • monte55
    started a topic Railing

    Railing

    Here's a little job I did the other day. 2" square posts with cast iron caps, 1/2" solid pickets, Punched top and bottom channel which I do, and mould cap for top rail. I primed and customer will paint in spring.
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  • monte55
    replied
    Primer is designed to provide "tooth" for the paint to adhere to. I would at least prime and paint base plates. If not, they will rust staining the concrete. Not very pretty. I have even thought about rubber spacers the same size as base plates.
    Nick

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  • fencemaker
    replied
    The one I'm starting has some pretty bad concrete some old some new some with more fall than other. For the most part I'm gonna have to build it in place. Would you suggest dipping the weld plate in primer before bolting down?

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  • monte55
    replied
    Yes, I have a hydraulic punch press I built about 10 or so years ago.

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  • fencemaker
    replied
    good job

    Hey that looks really slick? I'm starting on 300 feet of the stuff in the morning! You say you have a punch?

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  • kiwi
    replied
    Originally posted by monte55 View Post
    Hi Nick. Thanks for the words. They elected to paint it to save money. I was going to deliver it bare but I went ahead and primed it for them at no cost and painted areas they couldn't get to in black as you can see...under base plates and underside of lower channel. A little cleanup with scotchbrite and paint and it will be fine.
    Nick
    Well as usual your work looks great!!!! Doing things for your customers like priming and painting will make them repeat customers.
    Nick

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  • monte55
    replied
    Hi Nick. Thanks for the words. They elected to paint it to save money. I was going to deliver it bare but I went ahead and primed it for them at no cost and painted areas they couldn't get to in black as you can see...under base plates and underside of lower channel. A little cleanup with scotchbrite and paint and it will be fine.
    Nick

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  • kiwi
    replied
    Nick,
    That is a fine looking job. Is the owner not worried about his new rails rusting as they have no paint, only primer?
    Nick

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  • monte55
    replied
    Originally posted by Country Metals View Post
    Nice job. How old was that concrete? Aweful brave to be drilling that close to corners with a hammer drill.

    I stopped building rails a few years ago when codes and insurance is getting ridiculous. Does your state require 6" sphere rule for the steps? Just saying because there are railing chaser lawyers also, just like ambulance chasers.

    Edit: that is a REALLY nice picket twister you got. I wish mine had a hand wheel like that. You'll have to show me a few pictures of it.
    Did you see the video of the twister? I don't think I have any pics of it that are worth posting. If there is interest here, I could take some and post

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  • monte55
    replied
    Originally posted by Country Metals View Post
    5/16 anchors are fine. I have used 1/4" zircons, 1/4-1/2" anchors, 3/8" concrete bolts not the blue screws, core drill w/ concrete fill, and ect. It all depends on what you find when you start drilling.

    The reason I say that you were brave to drill that close to the edge is because you put a lot of pressure on the drill in combination with the anchors, you will blow the corner off. I have done it enough times because the biggest down side to installing railings is you have to deal with the cheapness and BS from the previous contractors.
    I'm always worried when drilling next to edge or corner. The base plates are 4" square and I set them back at least 1-1.5" from edge and the hole is back from that. Never have messed the concrete up yet, knock on wood. I drill straight down with no side motion which could break bit or concrete which I have seen people do. Just be careful and the anchors only have to be tightened enough to hold and not cause undue expanding stress.

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  • monte55
    replied
    Originally posted by Bistineau View Post
    Is this the project you were wanting to post pictures of when asking how to post pictures in the other thread? If so were my directions clear enough to follow or did you use another method?

    The railing job looks real nice and ought to be there securely for years. How long are the anchors you used? I would have used 3/8" anchors at least, but then I am a big fan of overkill on projects just to insure nothing fails due to not doing enough initially and having to go back and re-do something.
    Yes these were the pics. I found out they would not upload because file was too large. I couldn't figure how to resize so I used the Snipping Tool on Windows 7 which allowed me to crop at same time. Saved those which were much smaller files and no problem to upload. I really like the snipping tools . Thanks for your help. I think the anchors are 1.75 " long
    Nick
    Last edited by monte55; 01-26-2013, 08:28 AM.

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  • Country Metals
    replied
    5/16 anchors are fine. I have used 1/4" zircons, 1/4-1/2" anchors, 3/8" concrete bolts not the blue screws, core drill w/ concrete fill, and ect. It all depends on what you find when you start drilling.

    The reason I say that you were brave to drill that close to the edge is because you put a lot of pressure on the drill in combination with the anchors, you will blow the corner off. I have done it enough times because the biggest down side to installing railings is you have to deal with the cheapness and BS from the previous contractors.

    Leave a comment:


  • Bistineau
    replied
    Is this the project you were wanting to post pictures of when asking how to post pictures in the other thread? If so were my directions clear enough to follow or did you use another method?

    The railing job looks real nice and ought to be there securely for years. How long are the anchors you used? I would have used 3/8" anchors at least, but then I am a big fan of overkill on projects just to insure nothing fails due to not doing enough initially and having to go back and re-do something.

    Leave a comment:


  • monte55
    replied
    The top mould cap sits on the top channel which is 1" x1/2" inverted with legs up... before the mould cap is welded on,,,the channel and cap is primed. :The concrete is only a few months old. Easy to drill. I keep my picket spacing less than 4 " on all sections. My railing is nice and plumb but I have no idea what that mass of concrete will do if it should settle off kilter.BTW...all welds on pickets are inside c channel and will not be seen. Much cleaner look.
    Last edited by monte55; 01-25-2013, 03:48 PM.

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  • go2building
    replied
    Railing

    Looks like a clean job. I agree with risky drilling on the corner of steps. Only problem with using tubing and a top channel is they always rust from the inside out, reducing the service life. My preference is to use solid 1" bar for posts and welding the pickets directly to the under side of the molded top. I assume that's what the customer wanted, can't argue with the customer!

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