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Railing

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  • Railing

    Here's a little job I did the other day. 2" square posts with cast iron caps, 1/2" solid pickets, Punched top and bottom channel which I do, and mould cap for top rail. I primed and customer will paint in spring.
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  • #2
    railing

    Nice work looks pretty solid to

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    • #3
      I have to say looks good. As armor said, very solid.

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      • #4
        I hate wiggly rails. I like the solid feel

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        • #5
          Looks nice. What kind of anchors did you use?

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          • #6
            5/16 " wedge anchors. I think that's what they call them. 7/16 nut. Drill a hole, tap them in and tighten. I like them

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            • #7
              Nice job. How old was that concrete? Aweful brave to be drilling that close to corners with a hammer drill.

              I stopped building rails a few years ago when codes and insurance is getting ridiculous. Does your state require 6" sphere rule for the steps? Just saying because there are railing chaser lawyers also, just like ambulance chasers.

              Edit: that is a REALLY nice picket twister you got. I wish mine had a hand wheel like that. You'll have to show me a few pictures of it.
              Last edited by Country Metals; 01-25-2013, 11:10 AM.

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              • #8
                Originally posted by monte55 View Post
                Here's a little job I did the other day. 2" square posts with cast iron caps, 1/2" solid pickets, Punched top and bottom channel which I do, and mould cap for top rail. I primed and customer will paint in spring.
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                Looks nice, straight, and square which is always a challenge for a straight picket railing,that railing will last for many years ,assuming the concrete holds up.

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                • #9
                  Railing

                  Looks like a clean job. I agree with risky drilling on the corner of steps. Only problem with using tubing and a top channel is they always rust from the inside out, reducing the service life. My preference is to use solid 1" bar for posts and welding the pickets directly to the under side of the molded top. I assume that's what the customer wanted, can't argue with the customer!

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                  • #10
                    The top mould cap sits on the top channel which is 1" x1/2" inverted with legs up... before the mould cap is welded on,,,the channel and cap is primed. :The concrete is only a few months old. Easy to drill. I keep my picket spacing less than 4 " on all sections. My railing is nice and plumb but I have no idea what that mass of concrete will do if it should settle off kilter.BTW...all welds on pickets are inside c channel and will not be seen. Much cleaner look.
                    Last edited by monte55; 01-25-2013, 02:48 PM.

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                    • #11
                      Is this the project you were wanting to post pictures of when asking how to post pictures in the other thread? If so were my directions clear enough to follow or did you use another method?

                      The railing job looks real nice and ought to be there securely for years. How long are the anchors you used? I would have used 3/8" anchors at least, but then I am a big fan of overkill on projects just to insure nothing fails due to not doing enough initially and having to go back and re-do something.

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                      • #12
                        5/16 anchors are fine. I have used 1/4" zircons, 1/4-1/2" anchors, 3/8" concrete bolts not the blue screws, core drill w/ concrete fill, and ect. It all depends on what you find when you start drilling.

                        The reason I say that you were brave to drill that close to the edge is because you put a lot of pressure on the drill in combination with the anchors, you will blow the corner off. I have done it enough times because the biggest down side to installing railings is you have to deal with the cheapness and BS from the previous contractors.

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by Bistineau View Post
                          Is this the project you were wanting to post pictures of when asking how to post pictures in the other thread? If so were my directions clear enough to follow or did you use another method?

                          The railing job looks real nice and ought to be there securely for years. How long are the anchors you used? I would have used 3/8" anchors at least, but then I am a big fan of overkill on projects just to insure nothing fails due to not doing enough initially and having to go back and re-do something.
                          Yes these were the pics. I found out they would not upload because file was too large. I couldn't figure how to resize so I used the Snipping Tool on Windows 7 which allowed me to crop at same time. Saved those which were much smaller files and no problem to upload. I really like the snipping tools . Thanks for your help. I think the anchors are 1.75 " long
                          Nick
                          Last edited by monte55; 01-26-2013, 07:28 AM.

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by Country Metals View Post
                            5/16 anchors are fine. I have used 1/4" zircons, 1/4-1/2" anchors, 3/8" concrete bolts not the blue screws, core drill w/ concrete fill, and ect. It all depends on what you find when you start drilling.

                            The reason I say that you were brave to drill that close to the edge is because you put a lot of pressure on the drill in combination with the anchors, you will blow the corner off. I have done it enough times because the biggest down side to installing railings is you have to deal with the cheapness and BS from the previous contractors.
                            I'm always worried when drilling next to edge or corner. The base plates are 4" square and I set them back at least 1-1.5" from edge and the hole is back from that. Never have messed the concrete up yet, knock on wood. I drill straight down with no side motion which could break bit or concrete which I have seen people do. Just be careful and the anchors only have to be tightened enough to hold and not cause undue expanding stress.

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by Country Metals View Post
                              Nice job. How old was that concrete? Aweful brave to be drilling that close to corners with a hammer drill.

                              I stopped building rails a few years ago when codes and insurance is getting ridiculous. Does your state require 6" sphere rule for the steps? Just saying because there are railing chaser lawyers also, just like ambulance chasers.

                              Edit: that is a REALLY nice picket twister you got. I wish mine had a hand wheel like that. You'll have to show me a few pictures of it.
                              Did you see the video of the twister? I don't think I have any pics of it that are worth posting. If there is interest here, I could take some and post

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