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New welding shop tube heater

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  • New welding shop tube heater

    My existing shop is 38' x 40' with a 16' ceiling and I just did an addition that is 40' x 80' with a 18' ceiling, The existing shop has a 150 btu hanging forced air furnace.

    I'm wanting to do a radiant tube heater in the new shop and was thinking it would be best if I put it over top of my welding table that is 22' long so it heats the table and the table can hold the heat.

    My problem is that the table is on the opposite end of the building approximately 72' away.
    My question is do I use one big heater or will I be better served with 2 smaller ones.

    Or would I be better off not worrying about heating the tables and run one long one the length of the building.

    Your input will be appreciated.

  • #2
    Personally I would like 2 units. I have one over my bench and it makes it feel nice and rosy. With 2 there is twice as much to go wrong but also not out of luck should a problem arise with one. The one I have was straight, I put 90 in it and turn it. I really rarely use the thing as I mainly heat with wood but it is a backup. Back in the day I was doing a fair amount of design/proto work, would come in shop at 10 at night, kick it up over the benches for half an hour to get rolling, made it real comfy.
    Attached Files

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    • #3
      Should have asked first...

      ...in-floor heat is the BEST.

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      • #4
        I'm not sure about the claim of in-floor heat being the best...especially on a retrofit like this!

        I went with the double heater set-up. Each unit faces the opposite direction to the other in order to have the heat output equalize over the entire shop. On the combustion side of the heater the heat output is greater. By the time the tube nears the far wall and is vented to the exterior you can place your hand on the tube and not notice much, if any, variation from room temperature...that in itself is a good indicator of their high efficiency. Both are on seperate thermostats, so its easy to save a bit of energy if you only need one side of the shop warm and toasty.

        Living up here in Wyoming with cold weather, the heating bills are almost always less than the electric bills up at the shop with an R40 ceiling insulation factor and the thermostats left around 40-45 degrees unless the shop needs brought up to temperature. When that happens, I just crank the thermostats for 10-15 minutes and reset to 40-45 afterwards and the heat stays comfortable longer than I care to work at any given time.

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        • #5
          Originally posted by WyoRoy View Post
          I'm not sure about the claim of in-floor heat being the best...especially on a retrofit like this!
          This was NOT a retrofit... It was an addition... which I took to mean NEW addition to existing building. Generally that would mean NEW floor too.

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          • #6
            Originally posted by Doughboyracer View Post
            This was NOT a retrofit... It was an addition... which I took to mean NEW addition to existing building. Generally that would mean NEW floor too.
            Sure, probably is a NEW floor...which makes it a R-E-T-R-O-F-I-T if it is already in place. If it isn't, the original poster can add in-floor heat in the new section and keep his old amazingly inefficient hanging forced air furnace in the old section OR swap out that old forced air furnace for a high efficiency radiant tube ceiling heater in that or both sections as he sees fit. I'm just going with what the original poster mentioned about his welding table being located 72' away in the opposite corner when the original building was stated as being 38' X 40'.

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            • #7
              A new floor doesn't = RETROFIT.
              But now that his is up and he is just figuring out the heat it IS too late.

              That is why I said in MY OP that he should have come here first...my GOD, take it easy old timer...you are (you're) likely to pop a bolt.

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              • #8
                You needn't worry about this old timer popping a bolt, but thanks for caring enough about my health to comment. I'm enjoying the humor. I seem to remember, even with an old timer's memory, that the OP was asking about ceiling radiant heat for a new addition...wait a second, old/new addition with an old/new floor. Mentioning in-floor heat as a missed option appeared to make as little sense then as it does now.

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                • #9
                  Yep...But might help the next guy.

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                  • #10
                    There is nothing wrong with radiant heat, going in floor would add a lot of extra cost and a whole new system, radiant tube is simple, hook gas lines and vents in and out, as was mentioned it gives off more heat near the burner I believe. I like it, quick to warm over work areas.

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                    • #11
                      Hey guys, Yes I could still put the radiant heat in the floor and no doubt its the best except in my situation, I like it warm when I'm here and we get times when we are out on a portable for days at a time and when I come home at night I may only be in the shop for a couple hours at night preping stuff for the next day so I think the radiant will work best for my situation.

                      SBerry. I also burn wood but am worried about the wood keeping up and there are times when I need it warm in a hurry and 65 degrees is where I like to keep it in the shop when I'm working.

                      So you agree with the idea of the heater being over the table.
                      I know when the shop is at 65 when we are working and its 20 degrees outside I'll pull the trucks and the hilo in when they have been sitting outside it takes the shop forever to heat back up so I was thinking the table would work in reverse.

                      Another note: I have 6 H-beams 12" tall x 30' long that are getting cemented into the floor, 2 inline with the frame of a truck, 2 will be 8' apart inline with the outside edge of a truck and 2 more that will be 3' off the edge of a truck so I will have a area approximately 15' x 30' that will be flat to work off or I can use them to straighten things.
                      The new addition will also have 4 bridge cranes, 2 bridges per truck bay.

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                      • #12
                        I assume you will keep the place above freezing all the time and want a boost when needed, You probably have more insulation than I do but I stay at 50, maybe 55 or so in winter, when it snows you can feel the place heat up easier. As I said before I used to turn on the unit over bench to rosy it up a little when I knew I was standing there doing layout or design, maybe run for 20-30 mins just to put a little glow on, the benches will store a bit of heat but probably rather insignificant in the grand scheme of things.

                        At the temps atapullingng cold unitit doesntnt make a big deal, you can feel it when a door is opened in real cold weather but it recovers quick anisn'tnt that warm to start with. keep my office a bit warmer butDon't't mind wearing a pair of uninsulated bibs anyway, can go in and out without dressing up or down, keeps cloths cleaner, less wear and a bit of protection. Its not uncomfortable.

                        Sitting at a puter would be one thing but my shop is 80 ft across, we are pretty much on the move, its pretty rare I feel chilly, keep ceiling fans on. Not real bad even on smokin hot days like we had recently, beats out in the sun.

                        Only occasions warmer would help a little is painting, which I can schedule most of the time and not as much anymore and drying cars but thats not much a problem either as I can blow warm on them and usually wash first, bring in over night and they crispy as a cracker in the morn if I cut off ice first which I usually do, they are pretty much done dripping in 2 or 3 hrs. I have floor drain pad, 2 or 3 easily can sit, move into work area or hoist when they are dry.

                        Actual welding work is fairly minor, we weld often, not a lot, if that makes sense. Biggest real weld/fab job I did in recent history was about a month 2 winters ago, repairs some tractor rims this week, about half a day of real faDidn'te. Didnt cut or weld anything today that I can recall. Most days a cut or tack here or there, comes in squirts.

                        While I might find use for crane rails I don't need them. I have portable A frame, floor jacks, auto/light truck hoist and cherry picker, most of my rigging is outside and I have crane on truck. I got to have the A frame but its really rare I use it. I use the little cherry picker a quite a bit.

                        I have 2 buildings, shop and storage which is 80X100, actually 60x100 with 20x100 lean to which I really like. If I don't need it in here out it goes, still keep the sdoesn'tf but doesnt need to be warm and I like it clean free space, empty for the most part unless I am actively working on sdon'thing. I dont have to move this to do that, pit stop kind of space open floor, can turn a car or pickup around without opening a door or moving junk. I do have a flat section, close enough to build a trailer etc on. Sloped floor drain in another section.

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by Portable Welder View Post
                          Hey guys, Yes I could still put the radiant heat in the floor and no doubt its the best except in my situation, I like it warm when I'm here and we get times when we are out on a portable for days at a time and when I come home at night I may only be in the shop for a couple hours at night preping stuff for the next day so I think the radiant will work best for my situation.
                          Keeping it at 45 all the time would be my ideal and not cost all that much with good insulation and in floor...feels warmer than that when it comes from the floor and you can supplement when needed.

                          Do you store any liquids out there? Paint, cleaning, weed killer, Liquid fertilizer...ect. needs to stay above freezing. You may have other storage for that...IDK.

                          On the overhead heat I would do what Sberry said...and some ceiling fans too.

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                          • #14
                            New welding shop tube heater

                            I'm laughing myass off reading this ... I don't know why? I live in Alaska I have a small barrel style stove made out of 16" pipe in the corner but I use my table heater I love it it us not worth snapping a picture of ... I have a piece of six inch pipe at a 45* angle under the table about 30" long it has a piece of 1" plate tacked over 2/3 of the top end of pipe u run a weed burner in through the bottem of pipe it's hooked to a twenty foot hose hooked to a propane bottle stored in the corner next to my oxy act. Rack .... My system might be a little backwoods but it heats up my 3/4 inch 12 x6 table and me nicely

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                            • #15
                              Very workable idea! To be fair though, you need to grab a 55 gallon barrel and some garden hose to go state-of-the-art with in-floor heating. Just kidding.

                              The first couple of winters after I had my shop built I was doing basically the same method. Probably still would be going the cheap route, but found it didn't do a thing for rust on the machine tools, both from the water vapor in the exhaust and during the non-heat cycles. If I didn't own the machines, I'd most likely go with this method and forget thermostats, gas bills, etc.

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