Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

How do I best cap square steel tuning?

Collapse
X
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • How do I best cap square steel tuning?

    I have some 1.25" x 1.25" x .095 square steel tubing that may need some ends capped and want to know the smart way to do it. I read somewhere about "tabs" but haven't got a clue what those look like... a picture's worth a thousand words.

    Obviously I could grind and fit them to the inside of the tube or have them on the outside but there's gotta be some tricks to it.

    Thanks for the help.

  • #2
    When I need to cap square tube, like fence posted or table ends, I use flat stock that is the same size of the tube and Cut if to fit, weld, then grind to look good. Works well, cheap and easy. So you are using 1.25 square tube, I would get 1.25 flat bar and cut it square. Easy flat caps. Hope this helps

    Comment


    • #3
      Ok, why do you want to cap the tubing? So it looks nicer? If not to seal but to dress it up, you can get the plastic plugs you tap in. King supply in Texas sells them
      Nick
      Miller 252 Mig
      Miller Cricket XL
      Millermatic 150 Mig
      Miller Syncrowave 200 Tig
      2-O/A outfits
      Jet Lathe and Mill
      Jet 7x12 horz/vert band saw
      DeWalt Multi Cutter metal saw
      Century 50 Amp Plasma Cutter
      20 ton electric/hydraulic vertical press
      Propane Forge
      60" X 60" router/plasma table

      www.youtube.com/watch?v=jTu7wicVCmQ
      Vist my site: www.nixstuff.com
      and check out some of my ironwork and other stuff

      Comment


      • #4
        I do it similar to dozer7078 but I don't cut them square first. I use a length, weld or tack up 3 of the sides, then take an angle grinder with a cutoff blade, cut it off to fit and then weld the fourth side. I find this is easier cause I have something to hold onto while I'm getting it tacked in place with the right alignment.

        I have also used the tap in plastic caps that monte mentioned. You can get some sizes at Home Depot but they are WAY less expensive from King.

        Bob

        Comment


        • #5
          I wouldn't cut the caps the same size of the tube make them a tad smaller so when you grind them smooth you will still have some weld holding the cap to the tube. Just my thoughts...Bob
          Bob Wright

          Spool Gun conversion. How To Do It. Below.
          http://www.millerwelds.com/resources...php?albumid=48

          Comment


          • #6
            Thank you and sorry I posted then tuned out. I got my log splitter on wheels, finally.

            The capping is for prettiness, safety sake and to seal out water. It's a log splitter and I pay more attention to where my hands are than where my legs are. The legs tend to run into stuff and I HATE getting cut on my own work!

            As it turns out I may be able to cap them AND add some strength to the highest load bearing joints. The splitter, power pack is separate, probably weighs 450lbs.

            Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_2922.jpg
Views:	1
Size:	55.4 KB
ID:	512584

            Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_2927.jpg
Views:	1
Size:	55.7 KB
ID:	512585

            Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_2929.jpg
Views:	1
Size:	62.8 KB
ID:	512586

            Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_2930.jpg
Views:	1
Size:	44.7 KB
ID:	512587

            This thread is part of this thread... http://www.millerwelds.com/resources...lp-w-fix-ideas
            Last edited by PortlandGuy; 03-20-2012, 06:55 PM.

            Comment


            • #7
              For the way you have it built I might be inclined to grind down or cut off the horizontal supports to match the angle of the legs and then cut a piece of Flat stock the width of both legs and cover/cap both holes at once- may provide some extra support, dunno really. Flat stock is relatively cheap.

              Same idea for the Top holes on the Legs.
              Ed Conley
              http://www.screamingbroccoli.net/
              MM252
              MM211
              Passport Plus w/Spool Gun
              TA185
              Miller 125c Plasma 120v
              O/A set
              SO 2020 Bender
              You can call me Bacchus

              Comment


              • #8
                it's done

                Besides paint for the cart, it's done, finally. What an effort this one was.

                I ended up with a working height of 30" (man height versus midget height) and the front end will drop to the ground for those nasty pieces of 30" plus dia. oak and other wet heavy wood that'll break a back. I didn't want to engineer a vertical standing machine when a 'stooping' machine will do the same work for much less effort.

                You guys sure helped me tremendously and I am grateful.

                Log Splitter, one Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_2938.jpg
Views:	1
Size:	87.9 KB
ID:	512588

                Log Splitter, two Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_2934.jpg
Views:	1
Size:	85.9 KB
ID:	512589

                Log Splitter, three Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_2935.jpg
Views:	1
Size:	82.8 KB
ID:	512590

                Log Splitter, four Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_2936.jpg
Views:	1
Size:	87.7 KB
ID:	512591

                Log Splitter, five Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_2937.jpg
Views:	1
Size:	89.9 KB
ID:	512592
                Last edited by PortlandGuy; 03-21-2012, 01:53 PM.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Generally when I cap square tubing in an application such as this, I cut the cap to fit inside the tube then fuse a bead with TIG around the perimeter of the tube and lightly sand it prior to painting. I'm not saying my way is any more right than the advice the others gave you, it's just different.

                  The one thing though that I would have done is where the bolts go through the square tubing I would have made a sleeve to go through the tubing where the bolt is going to be and TIG welded it on each side of the tubing so when you tighten the bolts you don't crush the tubing.
                  Blondie (Owner C & S Automotive)

                  Colt the original point & click interface!

                  Millermatic 35 with spot panel
                  Miller 340A/BP
                  Victor O/A torches
                  Lincoln SP125
                  Too many other tools to list

                  03 Ram 1500
                  78 GS1000
                  82 GL1100 Interstate

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Sleeves inside the square tubing is a great idea. The squishing power of those bolts was bothering me

                    Originally posted by Blondie_486 View Post
                    Generally when I cap square tubing in an application such as this, I cut the cap to fit inside the tube then fuse a bead with TIG around the perimeter of the tube and lightly sand it prior to painting. I'm not saying my way is any more right than the advice the others gave you, it's just different.

                    The one thing though that I would have done is where the bolts go through the square tubing I would have made a sleeve to go through the tubing where the bolt is going to be and TIG welded it on each side of the tubing so when you tighten the bolts you don't crush the tubing.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Got Tread Plate?

                      The last time I had to cap some tubing was on 2x2 1/8", used for vertical stakes on a trailer. I had some tread plate laying around a sheared 2x2 plates. Weld them on, grind them flush. Added a little bit of decorative touch, definitely not a factory touch. Click image for larger version

Name:	IMAG0024.jpg
Views:	1
Size:	48.0 KB
ID:	516096

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        I always cut a flat plate to cap. I will oversize it by a little bit, like a 1/16th both directions. I bevel the plate and tube end. Weld it making sure the plate is barely proud of the tube on all sides. Then when you grind the weld smooth with a flap disk you also grind the plate to the tubes shape.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          use flat bar that is smaller than the square tube and weld it corner to corner there is less grinding that way

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            I like the novel idea to have the power supply mounted separately from the ram, using quick connectors. What other items do you attach to the hydraulic power supply? Just curious. Thanks.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              end caps

                              Go and see welding tipsandtricks ther is a very good video about end caps in square steel tubing

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X